UKH

Fall Arrester that can be moved along a taut rope?

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kritter 26 Jul 2017
anyone know of a fall arrester device that can be moved along a taut line ie. the opposite direction to that which a fall would induce it to go.
this is not for a fall situation in which the dead end of the rope is slack.
thanks
 spenser 26 Jul 2017
In reply to kritter:

A shunt? It sounds like most of the typical top rope soloing options would work if I've interpreted what you've said correctly.
1
 greg_may_ 26 Jul 2017
In reply to kritter:

Shunt.

spenser got there first.
kritter 26 Jul 2017
In reply to spenser:

but a rappel backup rather than fall arrester.
could it be used against a fall between two pro points , say 2 x 3m?
would it fair better than a prusik in that role?
 jkarran 26 Jul 2017
In reply to kritter:

How big a fall and what kind of rope? Shunt and Petzl jammer (would be my choice) will both work used with care on dynamic rope, neither is intended for fall arrest.
jk
In reply to kritter:

> but a rappel backup rather than fall arrester.
> could it be used against a fall between two pro points , say 2 x 3m?

See many threads on UKC about self-protected climbing. It's not intended for that use, but is used by many people that way (and climbers probably use a shunt more for this than for abseil backup)

> would it fair better than a prusik in that role?

Yes - a prusik grips in both directions so has to be physically moved up the rope as you climb; a shunt can just be towed upwards on the harness leaving hands free to climb.
 Nordie_matt 26 Jul 2017
In reply to kritter:

Petzl ASAP might do the trick, although a bit pricier than a shunt.
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