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Of to Yosemite next spring and trying to pick routes now to maximis our time out there. Snake Dyke is on the list and have been watching vids of it on youtube but most are filmed with a gopro head cam and with the wide angle distortion it is hard to get a feeling of how steep the slaby climbing is. So are we looking at something like the Idwal Slabs? Allens Slab at Froggett? or the top slab on Three peble Slab? Also it is said to be very polished on the first pich traverse, most people in the vids iv seen don't have a problem there and just seem to pad across so how bad is the polish realy. Cheers in advance for any replies.
In reply to Russell Lovett:
The first pitch has a couple of moves of vs 4c with good protection, after that every pitch gets a little easier as the angle of the slab lies back more and more until you are just scrambling up steep terrain. It's an exciting lead if it's windy with only 1 bolt per pitch for gear iirc.
I don't remember it being too polished at all.
The first pitch has a couple of moves of vs 4c with good protection, after that every pitch gets a little easier as the angle of the slab lies back more and more until you are just scrambling up steep terrain. It's an exciting lead if it's windy with only 1 bolt per pitch for gear iirc.
I don't remember it being too polished at all.
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In reply to Russell Lovett:
IIRC and it's been a long long time there isn't actually much slab climbing, there's a bit on pitch one which can be avoided (about as steep as Brimham's cubic block IIRC, maybe a little less) and somewhere a few pitches up there's a few comparatively thin traverse moves which are easy with a rope on and very easily in balance so the angle is basically irrelevant, mostly you're walking up hand/foot sized scoops and knobbles with the angle easing for each successive pitch until you're walking. I don't recall a polish problem but much of the valley rock is pretty glassy anyway. It's basically ungradeable after the pretty safe maybe VS start then easy and generally quite secure but very run-out climbing above and bolts/gear near to anything slightly out of keeping with that. It is a big day out to walk in, climb and walk out, don't underestimate that. Amazing route, where it goes at the very modest grade is hard to believe.
jk
> Of to Yosemite next spring and trying to pick routes now to maximis our time out there. Snake Dyke is on the list ...
IIRC and it's been a long long time there isn't actually much slab climbing, there's a bit on pitch one which can be avoided (about as steep as Brimham's cubic block IIRC, maybe a little less) and somewhere a few pitches up there's a few comparatively thin traverse moves which are easy with a rope on and very easily in balance so the angle is basically irrelevant, mostly you're walking up hand/foot sized scoops and knobbles with the angle easing for each successive pitch until you're walking. I don't recall a polish problem but much of the valley rock is pretty glassy anyway. It's basically ungradeable after the pretty safe maybe VS start then easy and generally quite secure but very run-out climbing above and bolts/gear near to anything slightly out of keeping with that. It is a big day out to walk in, climb and walk out, don't underestimate that. Amazing route, where it goes at the very modest grade is hard to believe.
jk
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In reply to Russell Lovett:
The polish on the first pitch is where I guess water has seeped out of the overlap you traverse under and worn the granite smooth (it has this weird golden patina if I remember rightly). I remember it did look/feel rather slippery but as you mention everyone else's feet stick so yours should too! I think the actual crux of the route is higher up on pitch 3 but is protected by a bolt at your face (which you should take care to spot), the rock has more friction here but IIRC you cross a sort of scoop in the rock which made it feel a bit steeper than the rest of the traverse. It's over in a few steps and then you're back to padding across a more secure angle.
The polish on the first pitch is where I guess water has seeped out of the overlap you traverse under and worn the granite smooth (it has this weird golden patina if I remember rightly). I remember it did look/feel rather slippery but as you mention everyone else's feet stick so yours should too! I think the actual crux of the route is higher up on pitch 3 but is protected by a bolt at your face (which you should take care to spot), the rock has more friction here but IIRC you cross a sort of scoop in the rock which made it feel a bit steeper than the rest of the traverse. It's over in a few steps and then you're back to padding across a more secure angle.
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In reply to Russell Lovett:
It's simply a wonderful, long day out and, looking at your profile, you won't have any problems on it. The first pitch can be done in various ways, but tight under the overhang it's glassy smooth and probably harder than VS 4c but not steep - maybe think of Grimsel 5c+, if you've been there. Some of the pitches up the dike itself are very run out but with ingenuity some pro, in addition to the one bolt per pitch, can be arranged on some of them.
I'd suggest running a search on here: there's been quite a bit of discussion about it, including the grade. Iirc, some have given it E1.
It's simply a wonderful, long day out and, looking at your profile, you won't have any problems on it. The first pitch can be done in various ways, but tight under the overhang it's glassy smooth and probably harder than VS 4c but not steep - maybe think of Grimsel 5c+, if you've been there. Some of the pitches up the dike itself are very run out but with ingenuity some pro, in addition to the one bolt per pitch, can be arranged on some of them.
I'd suggest running a search on here: there's been quite a bit of discussion about it, including the grade. Iirc, some have given it E1.
In reply to Solaris:
PS - we did a 5.9 on GPA that felt significantly easier than traversing under the overhang on p1 of Snake Dike.
PS - we did a 5.9 on GPA that felt significantly easier than traversing under the overhang on p1 of Snake Dike.
In reply to Russell Lovett:
Check out the Snake Dike beta on Supertopo. The slab is a steep walk. When in Spring are you planning as there can be snow on the cables into June.
Check out the Snake Dike beta on Supertopo. The slab is a steep walk. When in Spring are you planning as there can be snow on the cables into June.
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In reply:
The most important beta for Snake dyke is to go really light and DO NOT take a rack. I went the whole hog and didn't take a rope either, but you genuinely will have no use for more kit than a few quickdraws and a couple of slings and screwgates. I think I saw one or two pockets that might have taken a big tricam, other than that there's nothing - one or two bolts per pitch and two for the belays.
VS is a fair grade. The crux will give pause for thought but most of it above is more like VDiff. The moment you realise you don't need your hands and can just walk is a good one.
The most important beta for Snake dyke is to go really light and DO NOT take a rack. I went the whole hog and didn't take a rope either, but you genuinely will have no use for more kit than a few quickdraws and a couple of slings and screwgates. I think I saw one or two pockets that might have taken a big tricam, other than that there's nothing - one or two bolts per pitch and two for the belays.
VS is a fair grade. The crux will give pause for thought but most of it above is more like VDiff. The moment you realise you don't need your hands and can just walk is a good one.
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In reply to Russell Lovett:
I agree with james1978. I did it in my approach shoes as the rock (granite) has loads of friction on the slab. I don't recall the first pitch being polished, but its definitely the crux. The rest of it just needs some balls to run out every pitch with a single piece of protection. You follow ribbed veins all the way up which are useful for hold, but no gear placements so take a very lightweight rack. Cool route and the walk in takes you through an array of wilderness. Enjoy!
I agree with james1978. I did it in my approach shoes as the rock (granite) has loads of friction on the slab. I don't recall the first pitch being polished, but its definitely the crux. The rest of it just needs some balls to run out every pitch with a single piece of protection. You follow ribbed veins all the way up which are useful for hold, but no gear placements so take a very lightweight rack. Cool route and the walk in takes you through an array of wilderness. Enjoy!
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In reply to Russell Lovett:
Other climbs to think of are Royal Arches - S face of North Dome link-up, VS or less, or if run-out friction is dialed in Crest Jewel (10c) instead on N Dome. Also Braille Book, which will be quiet, and Higher Cathedral Spire.
Other climbs to think of are Royal Arches - S face of North Dome link-up, VS or less, or if run-out friction is dialed in Crest Jewel (10c) instead on N Dome. Also Braille Book, which will be quiet, and Higher Cathedral Spire.
In reply to Russell Lovett:
The slab is quite steep on the dyke. The pitches up to the crux are slightly lower angle. I just can't remember any difficulty on pitch 1 at all... maybe there are variations. The crux is a pure friction slab with a solid 5a move right next to a bolt as you diagonal up and left to the main dyke: this pitch would be HVS in many places in the UK. The dyke has numerous pitches of unprotected climbing of VD level technicality (ie top end HS 3c) up scoops that look like snake scales. Its very serious for someone only just leading VS and unused to runouts but its a path for experienced harder climbers. I found no runners between the bolt belays... talk of slinging chicken heads is from people with more optimism than sense. There are a few places you might be able to get some taped hooks .... but really? Its typically about 3 to 4 hours to get to the start and not as obvious as you would like (some get lost) and the Mod top-out is as long as the route so you need to move fast.
If you look at Mountain Project ascent logs you can see how often the route is snow affected in the spring... lots of stuff in the sun will be still be climbable then in the valley but getting to Tuolumne would be tricky. Id also recommend Royal Arches.. the US grades hide the fact that it's one of the world's best HS climbs with numerous crux pitches from HS 4c crack to HS 3b run-out slab.
The slab is quite steep on the dyke. The pitches up to the crux are slightly lower angle. I just can't remember any difficulty on pitch 1 at all... maybe there are variations. The crux is a pure friction slab with a solid 5a move right next to a bolt as you diagonal up and left to the main dyke: this pitch would be HVS in many places in the UK. The dyke has numerous pitches of unprotected climbing of VD level technicality (ie top end HS 3c) up scoops that look like snake scales. Its very serious for someone only just leading VS and unused to runouts but its a path for experienced harder climbers. I found no runners between the bolt belays... talk of slinging chicken heads is from people with more optimism than sense. There are a few places you might be able to get some taped hooks .... but really? Its typically about 3 to 4 hours to get to the start and not as obvious as you would like (some get lost) and the Mod top-out is as long as the route so you need to move fast.
If you look at Mountain Project ascent logs you can see how often the route is snow affected in the spring... lots of stuff in the sun will be still be climbable then in the valley but getting to Tuolumne would be tricky. Id also recommend Royal Arches.. the US grades hide the fact that it's one of the world's best HS climbs with numerous crux pitches from HS 4c crack to HS 3b run-out slab.
Post edited at 15:03
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In reply to Russell Lovett:
Make a full mountain day of it: walk in the evening before and bivvi at Little Yosemite (if this is still permitted and you will have to book). Encounter with foraging bear guaranteed. You can then walk in the cool early morning and get better light for photos. Brilliant day, have a great time.
Don't recall it being polished: the vein is quite "quartzy" in places so there are smooth holds but positive enough with it. Agree with above: first two pitches VS then pleasant (Idwal Slabs Classics) above. But that was 25 years ago
Make a full mountain day of it: walk in the evening before and bivvi at Little Yosemite (if this is still permitted and you will have to book). Encounter with foraging bear guaranteed. You can then walk in the cool early morning and get better light for photos. Brilliant day, have a great time.
Don't recall it being polished: the vein is quite "quartzy" in places so there are smooth holds but positive enough with it. Agree with above: first two pitches VS then pleasant (Idwal Slabs Classics) above. But that was 25 years ago
In reply to Offwidth:
> I just can't remember any difficulty on pitch 1 at all... maybe there are variations.
Yes, the team ahead of us didn't go up to the traverse overhang, we did.> The crux is a pure friction slab with a solid 5a move right next to a bolt as you diagonal up and left to the main dyke: this pitch would be HVS in many places in the UK.
Yes, agree. Presumably you mean P3, if you split P1. > ... talk of slinging chicken heads is from people with more optimism than sense.
In that case, I plead guilty, y'r 'onour.> the Mod top-out is as long as the route so you need to move fast.
Agreed, also with your comments about finding the best line to the start.
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In reply to Russell Lovett:
Great route and I'd agree that it will feel more like HVS unless you have already tuned into granite slab mode. See http://wp.me/p4LRNA-PA for a few pictures and a brief TR. A bivvy just beneath the start is a magical experience (but check temperatures!)
Super Slide and East Buttress of Middle Cathedral are worth adding to the list along with Royal Arches. More info on these at https://doughton.wordpress.com/category/usa/california/
Enjoy!
Great route and I'd agree that it will feel more like HVS unless you have already tuned into granite slab mode. See http://wp.me/p4LRNA-PA for a few pictures and a brief TR. A bivvy just beneath the start is a magical experience (but check temperatures!)
Super Slide and East Buttress of Middle Cathedral are worth adding to the list along with Royal Arches. More info on these at https://doughton.wordpress.com/category/usa/california/
Enjoy!
In reply to Russell Lovett:
When in spring are you going? The cables on the descent route don't normally go up until late May, and this is normally about the time Half Dome is snow-free. This year (lots of snow) they didn't go up until the beginning of June. If you're going to be there in early May or April, there's most likely going to be too much snow, unless it's a drought year.
When in spring are you going? The cables on the descent route don't normally go up until late May, and this is normally about the time Half Dome is snow-free. This year (lots of snow) they didn't go up until the beginning of June. If you're going to be there in early May or April, there's most likely going to be too much snow, unless it's a drought year.
In reply to cat22:
Im going to be in Yosemite from the 16th May to the 24th. I realise this maybe to early for the cables to be up butthinking of taking VF kit to get round this as although the post won't be up the cables are still there as for the snow im hoping it will be mostly go by then and the route will be possible. If its not it won't be the end of the world, as i have it on good authority that there are 1 or 2 other good routes in Yosemite lol.
Im going to be in Yosemite from the 16th May to the 24th. I realise this maybe to early for the cables to be up butthinking of taking VF kit to get round this as although the post won't be up the cables are still there as for the snow im hoping it will be mostly go by then and the route will be possible. If its not it won't be the end of the world, as i have it on good authority that there are 1 or 2 other good routes in Yosemite lol.
In reply to cat22:
Thanks for all the replys, armed with these and the info i have found online this will be going on my list of routes to do. Any other suggestions for routes up to the equivalent of HVS 5a that i should put on the list would be appreciated.
Thanks for all the replys, armed with these and the info i have found online this will be going on my list of routes to do. Any other suggestions for routes up to the equivalent of HVS 5a that i should put on the list would be appreciated.
In reply to Russell Lovett:
Zee Tree up in Tuolumne is very good and will help get your eye in for spotting invisible bolts* and Yosemite padding.
But as others have said snow maybe an issue.
The route itself is pretty safe by Tuolumne standards and at 4 pitches (I think) is a good size to start on.
*We had binoculars and still couldn't find the belay bolts that mark the start of the 1st pitch - In the end I just quested up the slab towards where I hoped they would be and eventually found them*
Zee Tree up in Tuolumne is very good and will help get your eye in for spotting invisible bolts* and Yosemite padding.
But as others have said snow maybe an issue.
The route itself is pretty safe by Tuolumne standards and at 4 pitches (I think) is a good size to start on.
*We had binoculars and still couldn't find the belay bolts that mark the start of the 1st pitch - In the end I just quested up the slab towards where I hoped they would be and eventually found them*
In reply to Russell Lovett:
Harry Daley on Glacier Point is very good.
Arrowhead Arête is an excellent adventure route.
Nutcracker is very pleasant, if a little tame.
It's probably worth the two hour drive for South Crack on Stately Pleasure Dome but, as mentioned above, the road might not open till the end of May.
> suggestions for routes up to the equivalent of HVS 5a that i should put on the list would be appreciated.
Harry Daley on Glacier Point is very good.
Arrowhead Arête is an excellent adventure route.
Nutcracker is very pleasant, if a little tame.
It's probably worth the two hour drive for South Crack on Stately Pleasure Dome but, as mentioned above, the road might not open till the end of May.
In reply to alan moore:
South Crack is well into E1 5a in my view for the slab near the top. The crack bit is VS.
Fairview Regular is the best HVS I've climbed anywhere but I suspect May is way too early season from the MP logbook stats
https://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/ShowObjectStats.php?id=105847227
South Crack is well into E1 5a in my view for the slab near the top. The crack bit is VS.
Fairview Regular is the best HVS I've climbed anywhere but I suspect May is way too early season from the MP logbook stats
https://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/ShowObjectStats.php?id=105847227
In reply to Russell Lovett:
It is quite easy for VS, it is quite hard to polish granite too badly, it is just smearing on the traverse so probably always been smooth TBH.
As for the angle it changes throughout as you are essentially climbing up a dome.
It is quite easy for VS, it is quite hard to polish granite too badly, it is just smearing on the traverse so probably always been smooth TBH.
As for the angle it changes throughout as you are essentially climbing up a dome.
In reply to Russell Lovett:
10 years ago we did it in spring, cables were down, but they were just laying on the rock.
Dead easy to descend backwards holding the cables, hand over hand.
Prefer this way as you are not held up by terrified tourists.
Leather aid gloves are useful for this.
10 years ago we did it in spring, cables were down, but they were just laying on the rock.
Dead easy to descend backwards holding the cables, hand over hand.
Prefer this way as you are not held up by terrified tourists.
Leather aid gloves are useful for this.
Post edited at 18:18
In reply to Mark Reeves:
As said above it might be easy VS for a guide (or for seconding a guide) but its a solid VS for an onsight leader operating at those grades and used to biggish routes on yosemite granite and its a potential nightmare for a first -time UK visitor who is a VS climber looking for an easy VS lead.
The main dyke is remarkably constant in angle (only easing on the top pitch and for the long climb-off) and the approach pitches are on a dome 'skirt' which gently increases in angle. It doesn't start at its maximum steepness and ease off as might be inferred by your post. Its on a dome but doesn't have that feel its more like the feel of something on a sweep of slabs like Etive (but steeper)
As said above it might be easy VS for a guide (or for seconding a guide) but its a solid VS for an onsight leader operating at those grades and used to biggish routes on yosemite granite and its a potential nightmare for a first -time UK visitor who is a VS climber looking for an easy VS lead.
The main dyke is remarkably constant in angle (only easing on the top pitch and for the long climb-off) and the approach pitches are on a dome 'skirt' which gently increases in angle. It doesn't start at its maximum steepness and ease off as might be inferred by your post. Its on a dome but doesn't have that feel its more like the feel of something on a sweep of slabs like Etive (but steeper)
1
In reply to Russell Lovett:
Here's a trip report I did a few years ago. The pictures might give you an idea of angles etc. Enjoy your trip.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/33-years-and-15-5-hours-to-get-to-the-summit-of...
Here's a trip report I did a few years ago. The pictures might give you an idea of angles etc. Enjoy your trip.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/33-years-and-15-5-hours-to-get-to-the-summit-of...
In reply to Andy Fielding:
Nice report and images. You get a good feel for the steepness of the slab in the photos and they don't look to be too bad, looks very doable even for a old man of 58 who doesn't train anymore. The hardest part looks like the walk in, but being a binman and walking between 12/15 miles dragging full bins every day at work even that should not be to bad. Cheers to all for your adivce, Russell.
Nice report and images. You get a good feel for the steepness of the slab in the photos and they don't look to be too bad, looks very doable even for a old man of 58 who doesn't train anymore. The hardest part looks like the walk in, but being a binman and walking between 12/15 miles dragging full bins every day at work even that should not be to bad. Cheers to all for your adivce, Russell.
1
In reply to pencilled in:
The walking is delightful. Mostly on a circular route in one of the most beautiful places in the world. Amonst other things we saw a bear (common) and several rattlesnakes (common in September... and don't step on them on the bushy approach if you start late for a quick afternoon ascent)
The walking is delightful. Mostly on a circular route in one of the most beautiful places in the world. Amonst other things we saw a bear (common) and several rattlesnakes (common in September... and don't step on them on the bushy approach if you start late for a quick afternoon ascent)
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