UKH

Hi all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times before but my search powers are weak this morning.

I'm thinking of having a go at soloing the Cuillin ridge on Tuesday. I've done the ridge before with a partner, but don't fancy soloing Naismith's route. I know there is a bypass to walk around Bastier's tooth, but can't find any details on it and can't remember seeing any obvious detor last time I was there. I've checked Mike Late's ridge pdf guide wich mentions Collie's route as an alternative to Naismith's, but again can't find any detail on it.

Also, am I right in thinking I can scramble out of the bottom of the TD gap to join the bypass through Corie a' Ghrunnda if I don't fancy the climb back out having abbed in? I remember finding the climb quite straightforward last time, but I did have a rope then.

In reply to MikeR:
The Bhasteir Tooth by the easiest route would be Collie's Route. It's a long diversion, and it is quite obvious when you're actually at the toe of the buttress. There's a good photo of James Roddie's on UKC that I used, which shows the ramp and face features clearly.

It's accessing Am Basteir from Bealach na Lice that gives the easy walk around to the north. Accessing the Tooth from Am Basteir is more difficult, but I reckon ascending from the Tooth to Am Basteir would be easier, with the soloing crux being one short tech 5b 'boulder problem', which is not really exposed.

Never done the gully out of the TD Gap, but pretty sure you can. I saw a couple guys doing this when we were on the Severe.

Kev

In reply to MikeR:

it might be possible but I don't think it is straight forward to scramble down out of the TD gap, I think there might be a small drop at the bottom of the gully to get into the corrie. far easier to just not go into the TD gap in the first place, plus it avoids the initial exposed moves on the climb up to the TD gap ab point/downclimb.

In reply to MikeR:

Heading West down the gully out of TD gap would be un-appealing. I "think" you'd want to either by-pass early or blindly commit to the climb out.

By-passing Naithsmiths to the West is just a walk to the col between Gillian and Am Baster. By-passing to the East may be quicker IF you find the route but I'd go with the easier West line.

In reply to all:

Thanks guys, that makes sense.

Good to know about the TD gap, I'll probably just bypass it in that case.

Just need to hope for good weather!
Cheers.

In reply to MikeR:

Collie's Route AKA Lota Corrie Route is a great alternative to Naismith's; I will post a photo from my forthcoming guide to the Cuillin Ridge to show where it goes.

Easy enough to scramble out of TD Gap; it's a bit loose and beware of the steepening at the bottom but for anyone contemplating soloing the ridge it should be easy.

I'm based in Sconser if you need any more advice or want a glance at the book. Happy to answer any other questions you have since it's always good to know what others need to know.
Good luck on Tuesday, the weather looks awesome and I'm tempted to do the ridge myself.

In reply to MikeR:

Have posted photo but not sure how long before it is approved and actually shows. Send me an email and I can send the photo and a detailed description of the route if you like.

In reply to MikeR:

I agree with what seems to have been decided. Miss out the TD Gap (lots of folk do), and do Collie's Route on the Tooth (you have to go down a lot further than you expect to reach it's start). That still leaves you Bidean Druim na Ramh, which is pretty hard without a rope, close to being as hard as Naismith's. So you'll need to decide what to do there (depends which direction you are going).

In reply to atrendall:

Thanks for that, I'll check back in a bit to see the photo.

I've sent you an email.

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Thanks Andy, is Bidean Druim na Ramh the bit where you step across what looked like a giant chockstone followed by a steep scramble up the other side?

In reply to MikeR:

Lota Coire Route is a good way and about Mod. That still leaves you with getting onto Am Bastier from the tooth - the obvious way is about Severe 4a now I think (used to be v-diff) and though solo-able in big boots, you may not fancy it if avoiding the TD Gap. Worth getting the Cuillin guide which describes difficult sections and the different options e.g. for getting onto Am Bastier from the tooth.

In reply to MikeR:

Bideon Druim na Ramh - It's a tricky down climb (about diff), though there are abseiling options if required.

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

If you are bypassing things then Bidean is easily bypassed by traversing screes on Glen Brittle side from Bealach na Glaic Moire to Beach Harta. I'd say Bidean is a lot easier than Naismith's; the ascent is easy and most people ab the descent which isn't too bad a down climb anyway.

In reply to atrendall:

Bidein is a major peak (or three!), which seems different to an obstacle between peaks. I'd not want to bypass it.

In reply to petestack:

I'd not want to bypass it either but the option is there if needed. I'd not want to bypass anything on the Cuillin Ridge but sometimes needs must etc.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Ah ok. Not where I was thinking then. I guess we probably abbed it last time as I don't remember any particularly tricky down climbing. I do remember that tricky move onto Am Bastir from the tooth though!!

In reply to MikeR:

We descended out of the TD gap when we did the traverse in May (gap too wet). Its pretty loose and unpleasant. I trundled a pretty large block just missing my other half.

Didn't think the move to get from the tooth to am basteir was too bad. Just big heave and onto jugs.

In reply to Michael Gordon:


I'd say it's a lot more than Diff, but easy to abseil if you're going south to north (if you have a rope). It's a bit of a boulder problem but about 4a on the way up if going north to south. Down climbing it isn't any easier, although you're near the ground.

In reply to MikeR:

Ah yes, I forgot you already had ridge familiarity. (So you'll know what you're up against with that bit)

In reply to MikeR:

Re bypassing the TD Gap, I wouldn't recommend scrambling down out of the gap, better to divert a bit earlier. At about 860 metres, as the ridge start to rise towards the gap, trend left down towards Ghrunnda, until level with the base of cliffs on Alasdair's south face. Follow a rising traverse path, on scree, along the base, passing TDG on your right, until close to a large cave. Cut back hard right to a short chimney which links to broken ground and after a short while the summit Ridge of Big Al. From the top of the Stone Shoot you can scramble (tricky moves at first) back to the main ridge and on to Thearlaich.