In reply to Vics:
The Carabiners on custom built Via Ferrata sets (CE EN 958) all have to be Type K carabiners (EN 12275), but what does that actually mean in a practical sense?
Carabiner Strength wise;
Loading on the Major Axis has to a minimum of 25kN. Other types have to be min 20kn (except the Oval which is 18kN)
Loading on the Minor Axis has to be minimum of 7kN which is the same for the other types.
Gate open strength has a minimum of 8kN. HMS types are 6kN, Ovals 5kN and Basic D shapes 7kN.
Strength over an Edge is 8kN. No other carabiner types are tested over an edge.
Other Carabiner details;
K Type carabiners shall have an autolocking device.
Minimum Gate opening is 21mm, other types is 15mm.
The Lanyards themselves;
There used to be two different types of specialist via ferrata lanyard set ups;
Type "Y" and Type "V".
The Type "Y" has the two lanyards joined together ABOVE the energy absorber. If the climber was clipped to the wire/anchor with either or both of the lanyards and the climber fell then the absorber/dissapator will do its job. Example would be the Petzl Scorpio Vertigo.
The Type "V" has the lanyards passing through an energy absrober in one peice of material (usually dynamic rope). Example would be the Knog KISA with a single rope. If using this type then only one carabiner should be clipped to the wire cable, except when passing an anchor. If a fall occurs when both connectors are clipped to the wire cable, there will be no energy absorbing in the system.
The UIAA stated that only the Type "Y" lanyard should be used (UIAA 128).
Testing;
An 80kg mass (The same that is uses for Type B ropes, slings, carabiners etc) is allowed to fall 5m (Connected just above the dissapator) and the Peak force on the lanyard is to be less than or equal to 6kN.
Hope that helps a bit.
Knots are not allowed to be tied in via feraata slings and will void the warrently (EN 958).
Post edited at 13:50