Beal Karma 9.8mm or Edelrid Boa 9.8 for rock climbing and gym?

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mike.gore 23 Jun 2017
Hi
Which one of these two ropes You recommend for a standard, beginner rock climbing use and also for the gym? Beal The Beal Karma 9.8mm or the Edelrid Boa 9.8mm? Both without dry cover.
Or is it better to buy 10mm for indoor use? For example Beal Virus or Edelrid Python? I'm only kinda affraid that with heavy use (falls, lots of top roping) the 10mm rope would get thicker and will not work smoothly in belay device anymore.

thanks
 radddogg 24 Jun 2017
In reply to mike.gore:

I've got the karma. It was cheap. It handles well. It's bright yellow. Feels like a half rope. That's all I can say
 Wayne S 24 Jun 2017
In reply to mike.gore:
As a rule of thumb the thicker the rope the more robust the sheath, A 9.8mm rope is a fairly standard diameter for all around climbing. I guess you need to think about the percentage of indoor wall climbing to outdoor you are likely to be doing. If mostly wall then a 10mm to 10.5mm would be harder wearing. Most climbing wall top ropes would easily be thicker and and more furry than this, so I think the belay plate use shouldn't really be a consideration.

As with all things everything is a compromise, but often "performance" often gets the bias over practically. Heavy robust fat ropes aren't sexy, but are pretty much what you need as a first/only rope.

For what it's worth I have a dedicated "fat" 10.5mm wall rope @ 30m for my local wall, and a 9.8mm 60m for not particularly hard outdoor sport climbing.

If I had to have just one rope then a 10mm, rope with a high sheath percentage would be my choice, though I might consider a "Protect" type sheath only treatment and pay a touch more for that.

If you are thinking of redpointing longer hard sports routes then a skinny single is the norm, but will more likely be a "Sunday Best" rope which comes out when needed. For one rope fits all go robust.

Wayne

PS, don't get too hung up on 9.X in reality its hard to see a difference between 9.8 - 10.5, as this diameter is an under tension measurement. In the hand some 9.8mm ropes may feel thicker than a 10mm. Look for a high number of falls, a high sheath percentage, and as impotant one that feels nice!

PPS, might be worth going for dark colour, as light coloured ropes more quickly look grubby/tired with lots of wall use.

PPPS, for the most part trad climbing on a single rope is folly, if moving to outdoor trad getting half ropes early on is a worthy consideration, but I guess that's a whole different topic.
Post edited at 07:45
 Coel Hellier 24 Jun 2017
In reply to mike.gore:

They're all fine, the differences are really marginal. No, you won't have any problem with a 10mm thickening up with any appropriate belay device (most will take 10.5 or 11mm ropes no problem). Pick the one whose colour you like best!

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