UKH

Hi all,

I'm heading to Bregaglia in the middle of July.

I've scoured all the old forum posts and still have a few questions for anybody who's been to this area.

Bivvying
- Does anybody have experience of bivvying at either Spazzacaldera or the base of the Badile?
- How warm is it mid July and what sleeping bag did you use (I'm assuming a 5C bag might do)?
- Are there water sources near the bivvy spots?
- Are the huts a worthy alternative?

Guidebook
- I have both of the Chris Mellor PDF guides for this area. Is it worth getting Plaisir Sud as well?
- Are guidebooks needed for rainy day trips to the sport crags over the Italian border?

Also, what's the best website for forecasts for this area?

Any other tips or advice much appreciated.

Cheers.

In reply to Hidden:

I can only reply re the huts, & confirm that they are a very worthy alternative indeed! The two nearest the locations you describe (the Sasc Fura & the Albigna) are probably the best I have stayed in anywhere, ever - genial hosts & excellent food. Swiss huts aren't cheap, but the quality is such that you feel you're getting a bargain.

In reply to Hidden:

Have been a few times. The Spazzacaldera is much closer to the top of the little cable car which runs from above Vicosoprano than the Alibigna hut which is up above the dam and on the other side of it (30-40 mins as opposed to 5 mins) so to climb on there it is more convenient to just go up for a day. The Alibigna hut is nice but very busy at certain times with walkers, so you should check availability first. There are good bivvy spots up above the hut. If you intend to climb routes on the Punta d'Alibigna this saves you the rush in the morning and you pretty much walk downhill to the start of the routes.

For the Badile there is a good bivvy on the col at the base of the north ridge. This saves quite a bit of stumbling around in the dark if you are coming from the Sasc Fura hut. It is also a quite brilliant and atmospheric place to spend the night before climbing a truly fantastic mountain. I have slept here in just a down jacket in August (cold but ok), and in a very light sleeping bag and all my clothes.

Descent to the Gianetti hut after the Badile is recommended. Good food and not too expensive. Hitch/Taxi back around is much more pleasant than rapping north ridge (although someone will be along to say I'm wrong) or worse, the death march over the cols back to the Sasc Fura.

The Mellor guides are ok but quite old now. We found certain less travelled routes where the topos and description were 'vague' shall we say. This Cassin too is good: www.pobega.ro/cassin-piz-badile/

The Plaisir book is good and accurate, if a bit limited in the mountains. It also has some of the crags just over the Italian border in. These can be combined with supermarket shopping in Chiavenna on rest days. Camping at Bondo is much better and cheaper than at Vicosoprano. There is plenty of shade, free firewood and really good, hot showers.

Have a great trip.

James

In reply to Hidden:

The SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) Guidebook for Graubünden probably has the most complete representation of the Bergell routes.

The ValChiavenna guidebook from Versante Sud has most stuff around Chiavenna for sportsclimbing and multipitch, although Sasso del Drago and Aguafraggia are in the Swiss one as well.

Bivying at spazzacaldeira is pretty common. One used to be able to get water in the lift building (at the top), but with it being renewed, it is closed after operating hours so make sure to fill up before it closes for the night. I dont recall there being water near the (otherwise excellent) bivy spot at the base of the badile ridge.

Dont get hung up on Cassin, there are many more great routes without the masses of people. The Sciora group for example is great for solitude and beautiful climbing.

In reply to Hidden:

Hi Hidden
I second James's good advice and the only thing I can really add is that the classic Bugeleisen (Flatiron) route up Pizzi Gemelli is ace and well worth doing. As an added bonus the rap back down the route is very straightforward!
Cheers
Dave

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Forgot about that Dave. One other thing that might be worth knowing is that there has been a gigantic rockfall on the northwest face of the Cengalo. This has obliterated the path between the Sasc Fura and the Sciora huts. It would definitely be worth talking to the Sciora guardian before venturing into this area. Oh and the Sciora hut is brilliant with amazing views of the Sciora group and the Badile.

James

In reply to Hidden:

James Mann's advice is very good, especially re: camping at Bondo!

As for Albigna, I have bivvied next to the dam, on the shore opposite the hut. You're not supposed to, but we set up as it got dark and packed away at first light, left everything spotless and didn't have any issues. IIRC there is a little toilet and running water nearby, at the base of the dam near where the cablecar disgorges.

In reply to james mann:


Ha very true James (hello by the way!) I climbed the flatiron in 2012 with the constant sound of rockfall from the Cengalo and even though it was a long way away it was a little disconcerting! Still a great climb in an amazing setting requiring only a tiny rack with all the belays/ab points being fully equipped...

In reply to Hidden:
Just a comment on the Badile options. Personally, I thought the walk back around to the Sasc Fura was really lovely and definitely not at all as bad as anybody made out. I've also done the walk down and hitch round option too, but would always prefer to walk back in future. Moreover, if you don't mess around you could definitely get to the bivi hut over the first of the cols on the same day as doing the Cassin/N Ridge. The Sasc Fura and Gianetti are both very nice huts, but are both very typical of their countries: one is ruthlessly organised, very clean and tidy and expensive; the other is relaxed, friendly, ad hoc etc.. A good option for the Badile on a good forecast would be to do the Cassin (if that's what you're there for, otherwise something else...) and descend to the Gianetti. Next day do Spigolo Vinci. Next day walk back and arrive shortly after lunch.

In reply to Hidden:

would recommend the sasc fura hut, though plenty of bivi spots on the approach to the badile have fun great climbing, great area!

In reply to Hidden:

Thanks for all the info guys. Much appreciated!

In reply to james mann:

Thanks James.

I've heard about a few innacurracies in the PDFs. They were both updated in 2013/14 so hope some of them have been corrected.

In reply to Removed UserMushin:

Thanks. I can't seem to find the SAC guidebook online. Will have to assume it's out of print.

In reply to tjhare1:

Thanks. I've had my eye on the Spigolo Vinci since seeing this video youtube.com/watch?v=YLd8jFeEW8c&

In reply to Hidden:

the cablecar at Albigna was recently upgraded and refurbished in 2016 and there is (was) a shiny new toilet at the top station; but I would expect it to be locked up overnight.
we saw folks bivy on wee (emphasis on wee) grassy areas of flat ground on the East side of the valley above the dam (between Piz Balzet and Piz dal Pal) - there's small burns on that side of the valley, the other side is bone dry.
A lot of people (most everyone) just day trip up on the cable car to climb on the spazzacaldeira.

If you're planning on Bugeleisen - the toe of the buttress is within the "danger area" of rockfall from the Gemelli. there was a published map that shows areas of different levels of danger stretching right down the valley. The (2011?) rockfall was particularly massive......
couple of friends did it a few years back and suggest to just abb back down the route, we gave it a miss.