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Alpine training routes- Ogwen

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 mattdennies 06 May 2017
I'm taking a group to Ogwen next weekend to go through some alpine skills with them (short roping, moving together etc.) in prep for our summer trip.

When I did this last year we did Milestone Butress one day and then linked up Cneifon Arete and Dolmen Ridge the next day. They were all pretty great routes for practising the required skills, but I'm wondering if anyone has any other suggestions to add a bit of variety.
 PeterBlackler 07 May 2017

Hi Matt,

This article on "training for the Matterhorn in North Wales" might be useful information on this topic

http://verticalfrontiers.com/training-for-the-matterhorn-in-north-wales/

(Vertical Frontiers is a BMC Guiding company based in Chamonix and they also do alpine training courses in the UK)

Kind regards,

Peter
Post edited at 19:54
 Y Gribin 08 May 2017
In reply to mattdennies:

Amphitheatre Buttress
Shark Buttress (near Dolmen)
Nor Nor Groove

And something like this:
http://www.peakmountaineering.com/advice-articles/mountain-route-guides/the...


 summo 08 May 2017
In reply to mattdennies:

Up and down all the scrambles on tryfan east face.
 galpinos 08 May 2017
In reply to PeterBlackler:

> .....Vertical Frontiers is a BMC Guiding company .......

What is a 'BMC' guiding company?
 Babika 08 May 2017
In reply to mattdennies:

On the Milestone Buttress last year out of 4 parties or so I was the only one not in Nepal Extremes (or equivalent). Odd how these things take over as a "must do" exercise.
 PeterBlackler 08 May 2017
In reply to galpinos:
>> What is a 'BMC' guiding company?

ah yes I probably mixed up with "BMC" with "BMG" (British Mountain Guides and/or IFMGA); apologies if so as the exact nuances are lost on me...mountain organisation names can be tricky things

Kind regards, Peter
Post edited at 12:45
 mff513 09 May 2017
In reply to mattdennies:

I'm going to second the opinion of amphitheatre buttress and add to it by saying if your gonna do it stay at the dulyn bothy it's a great place. But for ogwen id do the idwal staircase or direct approach to seniors.
 JackM92 16 May 2017
In reply to mattdennies:

Pinnacle Rib route up on Tryfan has a good mixture of pitched climbing, sections good to run it together. Then could shortrope down the western terrace scramble/north ridge. Alternatively the Idwal Slabs into the upper tiers would provide something similar.

The most similar style of climbing to what I've encountered in the Alps/Pyrenees in the Ogwen Valley is on the Glyder Fach crags. Plenty of thrutchy crack climbing, and some great chimmneys. Also a venue to practice multipitch abseil descents.
 Mark Stevenson 16 May 2017
In reply to mattdennies:

Have a look at the article on Snowdonia enchainments that I wrote a few years ago - https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=435
OP mattdennies 17 May 2017
Thanks for the advice everyone.

Saturday did seniors gully (as the rock was still damp from the morning's rain), Cneifon Arete, Dolmen ridge and down Bristly Ridge.

Sunday did Amphitheatre Buttress in our boots which was great fun and a bit squeaky bum time until the rock dried!
 Fredt 18 May 2017
In reply to mattdennies:
Last year my mate and I did a Matterhorn training day, roped up and in big boots with big sacks.
North Ridge of Tryfan, Bristly Ridge, abseil down Devils Kitchen, Original Route on the Slabs, Cneifon Arete and back to Ogwen. Got some funny looks but immensely valuable for rope handling, short roping, moving together etc.
Post edited at 06:48
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