Advice for Mountaineering Boots

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 kishanvekaria 21 Apr 2017
Hi, I've been accepted to do the Alpine Basics course at a discounted rate from AAC(UK). They've given a kit list (Linked below) and suggest I need to get a pair of mountaineering boots compatible with clip on Class D crampons. Does anyone have any recommendations on boots that are decent but also won't blow the budget?

http://www.alpenverein-akademie.at/akademie_wAssets/pdf/cb89c633-b2dd-4f05-...
 edunn 21 Apr 2017
In reply to kishanvekaria:

La Sportiva Trango S Evo boots are a good starting point. Lightweight, cheap(ish), and rigid enough for up to AD (maybe non-technical D).

Or you could go classic and go for La Sportiva Nepal Evo's, they'll last you years and are suitable for pretty much everything in the alps, but are more expensive.
 Jasonic 21 Apr 2017
In reply to kishanvekaria:

Why not ask them? Also depends on fit- better to use basic warmwear/ waterproofs (Decathlon) and spend more on boots- worth going to a specialist like Needlesports for this.

This book also useful for current alpine advice :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Books/Alpine-Mountaineering-Essential-Knowledge-...
 nutme 21 Apr 2017
In reply to edunn:

> Or you could go classic and go for La Sportiva Nepal Evo's, they'll last you years and are suitable for pretty much everything in the alps, but are more expensive.

La Sportiva Nepal is a bit of investment in future. If you are thinking of staying on basic glacier walks / simple scrambles for few seasons lighter and cheaper boots are a good choice. Personally I love Scarpa Manta. But that's because they fit me very well. It's all about the fit. A lot of friends ended up with blisters and wobbly fit in them.

La Sportiva Nepal is best bet if they will fit you. Will last years, cheap, stiff for anything and will keep you just warm enough.

Decathon has La Sportiva Nepal Evo for £229 and they occasionally go on sale in shops as last pair / clearance for around £150. They are amazing all around boots for summer Alps / Scottish winter.

OP kishanvekaria 21 Apr 2017
In reply to Jasonic:

I've asked them in my last email. They're yet to reply. But basically I've been passed on from one HR person in the UK to another in Austria. There's a bit of a language barrier and trying to sort out logistics of the course is trouble enough. The person i'm in contact with doesn't have the wealth of specific knowledge that's available on UKC. Plus there's bound to be people on here who know where to get things cheaper in the UK than someone in austria. Thank's for the advice. I will have a look at their website
 jonesieboy 21 Apr 2017
In reply to kishanvekaria:

I'm passing on good advice given to me in the past - the most important thing is fit. Some people have La Sportiva feet, some have Scarpa feet etc. So try lots on and don't be rushed into a purchase. The best boots are the ones that fit best.
 wbo 21 Apr 2017
In reply to kishanvekaria: where do you live? Shop around but try boots on - as above there would be little point me buying Sportivas no matter how cheap as they don't fit

 veteye 22 Apr 2017
In reply to kishanvekaria:

I have bought more boots in the last ten years than shoes due to not being comfortable in many. So I agree with the sentiments about getting a good fit.
If you want lighter weight mountaineering boots, then the Scarpa Charmoz are great and have grippy soles for climbing in.
For colder ventures the Scarpa Mont Blancs are pretty good, and offer more insulation(and weight).
The intermediate insulation Scarpa boots between the two types above may be the way to go,but I cannot remember their name.(It's midnight near the end of my 60+ hour week with little sleep) I also have no experience of them.
 tehmarks 22 Apr 2017
In reply to kishanvekaria:

With all the obvious caveats about fit, if you're considering a Sportiva boot for summer alpinism and see yourself climbing harder in the future then the Trango Extremes are a reasonable option. B3, light, and warm enough for summer.
OP kishanvekaria 23 Apr 2017
In reply to wbo:

I live in Oldham. I've had a look and there's a store not too far away called mountainfeet that do boot fitting appointments for free. So i'm gonna get signed onto one of those. Thanks a lot for the advice
 brianjcooper 25 Apr 2017
In reply to kishanvekaria:

I agree with posts above saying the most important thing is fit. I've got a pair of La Sportiva Nepal Extrems.

Tip: When I tried on a pair I found one foot was rubbing the inside of the boot. So I asked for another pair of the
SAME size and they fitted perfectly. No two pairs are identical, and in my case they were made on different 'lasts'.

Good luck with whatever you decide on.

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