Matterhorn Lion Ridge - single or double ropes? Nuts or cams?

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 nutme 11 Apr 2017

Was reading recently reports of Lion Ridge up to Matterhorn and it looks like there's no consistency regarding gear for the route.
What did you had with you?
What did you wished you had?

P.S.: On way down we prefer to lower first climber and belay second from below. It just works for us faster than abseiling on easy Alpine terrain.
Post edited at 10:39
 Jackob 11 Apr 2017
In reply to nutme:

50m single could have had shorter and a few nuts and cams.
 erph 12 Apr 2017
In reply to nutme:
1 string of a 50 m half rope. I seem to remember that at one point we combined ropes with another party to speed things up and make a 50 m abseil. We had a few friends but didn't use them: not needed as long as you stay on route.
In reply to erph:

Nice one:
> ... not needed as long as you stay on route.

 Tom.Priestley 13 Apr 2017
In reply to nutme:

We took 3 wires + 4 tricam evo's, could do it on a full set of wires (1-10), something like that. Plenty of quickdraws + slings for all the bolts and chains as well. We did it on a 30m rope but regretted it as there was a lot of snow (crampons all the way from the hut) which meant too sketchy to downclimb in the afternoon so loads of 15m ab's. Would have been better with a 50/60m rope or a 30m tagline for us but depends on conditions. Stay on route or it's really loose and climb through anyone who pitches anything, the crowds are awful.
 jezzah 18 Apr 2017
In reply to nutme:

Had 50m rope, set of nuts 1-10, few slings and x3 or 4 QDs

Wished we had more food, we climbed it the day they closed the mountain (but didn't tell us until we were at the Carrel hut surrounded by the local Police offering us a 5000 euro fine if we tried to go out onto the mountain) out of respect to Whymper who first ascended it 150 years before us- so that meant an extra day in the hut eeking out our meagre supplies for an extra day, reading the journal there, adding our own comments, scavenging for food left by others etc! On the plus side it was an extra day's acclimatisation and we were up and down from the hut in sub 7 hours which I think is about guide book time- it's then a long walk back from the hut to Cervinia down the zigzag road below the Abruzzi hut.
Fab day out and magic mountain.

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