Kyajo Ri, Nepal, Oct 2017 - looking for partners

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toobumble 09 Apr 2017
I'm planning a trip to the climbing peak Kyajo Ri in early Oct this year. Have trekked Kanchenjunga N/S base camp in eastern Nepal, and in China & Taiwan. Likely 18 days total in Nepal as we'll take the shorter route via Thame to base camp. Have contacted a few guides already - my preference is to hire a local guide in Lukla. If you're interested in joining pls PM me and we can chat.

Ben (based in Hong Kong)

More info on Kyajo Ri:

http://cosleyhouston.com/kyajo-ri.htm
 sheffieldchris 09 Apr 2017
In reply to toobumble:

hi couple of pointers for you ( climbed on the peak in 2014)

Not sure you will pick up a guide in Lukla, the bulk of them will be doing the Everest base camp route or similar to island peak or a couple of other routes in that general area. Kyajo Ri is not a commonly climbed peak, though more and more commercial companies are offering it. Organise this before you get to Nepal.

You are going to need a good deal of support for a base camp and have it set up there for you.

We carried all our own kit once above base camp- get porters

Once above base camp we did in one day the carry to the lake and glacier- do it in 2 we spent a full day just wasted after.

Put a camp on the col- if there are enough of you work out a way to rotate through it on the way up and down.

The route to the col from the lake looks easy- it is not with all your kit for camping. Go with the kit spread out between 4 of you and then 2 come back down. The last team on the way down will be ok to take the kit back to the lake.

The route may have fixed rope on it of some use, there is lots of old crap all over the main route.

The rock band looks easy-it is not

Start at sun up ( no need to start earlier you are at 5700M )from the col, with good conditions you will not be pushed for time to do the route and get back to the lower lake camp.

Have a plan and try to work as a team.

We were a group of 3 on the rope among 4 other teams of 3 all trying to do it by themselves.

7 people made it to the top, I was the man in charge of our rope and turned us back 100 vertical meters form the top. Mostly for not doing any of the the things I have recommended to you.
toobumble 10 Apr 2017
In reply to sheffieldchris:

Greatly appreciate the pointers. Very useful

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