Which progress capture device?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 John Kelly 07 Apr 2017

Want to replace my ancient shunt, what's best kit to slide smoothly up a single rope hanging down route, 7.5mm - 10mm
Post edited at 05:55
 BStar 07 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

A shunt...

I've used a micro traxion for top rope soloing before and I much prefer the shunt as it's smoother, you don't have to check the teeth are down, and it is easier to take off mosh route if you need to descend. I can't comment for any other devices
1
 Scott K 07 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

Our wall is now using a Safe Tech duck r for backup. Might be suitable but the price is pretty high.
 Oceanrower 07 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

I've just got hold of a Camp Goblin (I know, wouldn't be my first choice of name!) and, so far, very impressed.

It also has the advantage of being either an ascender like the shunt or a fall arrest device more like a Petzl Asap.
 mp3ferret 07 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

A RescueCender : http://www.abaris.co.uk/prod/Ascenders/Petzl-Rescucender-Rope-Clamp.htm

Not cheap - but has no teeth so it won;t rip the sheath off your rope.

Marc
 djwilse 07 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

I have a Troll Rocker (also made by SAR) and it looks similar in design to the Camp Goblin BUT I don't like it that much because it is too slick!
I find that if I am self belaying and trying a hard move I want to have the device as high up as possible, I shift it up as high as I can but it just slides back down. For this reason I think the shunt is preferable.
1
 cezza 07 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

Not sure anything is good for 7.5mm. Lots of stuff with teeth will do 8mm (Petzl Tibloc, Basic Ascender, Croll, etc)

I have a RescueCender and like it, does 9-13mm
The Duck does 10.5-11mm
The Camp Goblin 10-11mm
Microtraxion does 8-11mm, I have a few of these for hauling, wouldnt want to take a drop on them tho
SAR Rocker does 10.5 to 12.7mm, (have lots of these)

The New (and OLD) Shunt 10-11mm singles, 8-11mm doubles

Ceri
OP John Kelly 07 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

Thanks for all replies, couple on there I hadn't heard of and loads additional info, not sure I have seen my perfect solution but all really helpful stuff
Thanks John
 Rick Graham 07 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

Hi John

I have variously used a Petzl shunt, mini traxion and basic ascender.

Unless I know I will be on identical half ropes, the shunt stays at home.

The mini traxion has given me a couple of frights, so has been ditched from my preferred device back in favour of the Basic with a back up knot and sliding maillon below the BA.

I really should be following the Petzl guidance of two different independent systems, its well worth reading.
OP John Kelly 07 Apr 2017
In reply to Rick Graham:

Thanks Rick

Basic has a lot of good points -easy to organise to chest height, which is comforting, down to 8mm which is handy but teeth! never had toothed jammer, look a bit brutal

Back up knots - yes
Two ropes ? pain in arse to carry and organize
Cheers John
 Hooo 08 Apr 2017
In reply to djwilse:

> I have a Troll Rocker (also made by SAR) and it looks similar in design to the Camp Goblin BUT I don't like it that much because it is too slick! I find that if I am self belaying and trying a hard move I want to have the device as high up as possible, I shift it up as high as I can but it just slides back down. For this reason I think the shunt is preferable.

I have the SAR rocker, and it has a little lever at the top that tightens the grip on the rope so that it doesn't slide down. Do you not get this on the Troll version? I thought they were identical.
I hardly use the lever though, what I like about the rocker is the way I can downclimb without having to stop the device locking.
 djwilse 08 Apr 2017
In reply to Hooo:

Hi - yes it does (I think devices are identical) - I probably need to play around with it a bit more but seemed a bit of a faff.
 Timmd 08 Apr 2017
In reply to djwilse:

Do you use it with an 11mm rope?
 Hooo 08 Apr 2017
In reply to Timmd:

I use mine with a 10mm static rope. So officially the rope is under-sized, but it's a lot fatter than my 10mm dynamic rope and it works well.
OP John Kelly 08 Apr 2017
In reply to Hooo:
Is it designed for static ropes?
Post edited at 23:23
 deepsoup 09 Apr 2017
In reply to Hooo:
> I have the SAR rocker, and it has a little lever at the top that tightens the grip on the rope so that it doesn't slide down. Do you not get this on the Troll version? I thought they were identical.

They are identical - the version without the little lever was an earlier design (I'm fairly sure the later Troll ones had one on as well). They're still manufactured by ISC, who used to make them for Troll. Besides SAR, they also come 'badged' as the ISC Rocker, P+P Rocker, er.. Yates Rocker I think, and a few others besides. It stopped being exclusively a Troll thing after Troll was bought out by a larger company back in the early '90s.
 Hooo 09 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

> Is it designed for static ropes?

Yes. It's not great with dynamic ropes.
 Brass Nipples 09 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

How about a paper diary to capture your progress?
1
OP John Kelly 09 Apr 2017
In reply to Lion Bakes:

It's a good idea but I'm afraid it's all downhill from here
 timjones 09 Apr 2017
In reply to Lion Bakes:

> How about a paper diary to capture your progress?

Paper diaries are a bit yesterday!

Anybody who is anybiody captures their progress with a blog these days.

In reply to John Kelly:
I've been out doing some recently with a micro traxion on one half of a doubled rope (tied to anchor at top) and a gri-gri on the other. The gri gri is just backup and for descending. Can be a bit tricky to descend on overhanging rock!
Post edited at 17:01
OP John Kelly 09 Apr 2017
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

Sounds like a good solution
overhanging rock!, I generally prefer something about 70 degrees

 philhilo 09 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

Microtraxion is super smooth (it is a 91% efficient pulley) but I take it off when descending rather than lock it open so I don't leave it open for the next lap. Havent seen any rope damage after a fall.
OP John Kelly 09 Apr 2017
In reply to philhilo:

I think that's exactly what I want without the teeth and the ability to be locked open, like 'take off rope' solution
 Brass Nipples 09 Apr 2017
In reply to timjones:

> Paper diaries are a bit yesterday!Anybody who is anybiody captures their progress with a blog these days.

Pah, blogs are so last decade.
 Rick Graham 09 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:
> I think that's exactly what I want without the teeth and the ability to be locked open, like 'take off rope' solution

Agree teeth can be bad but don't dismiss the spiky Petzl cam.

Think it is designed to load the core and the sheath together.

Can show you a Mini Traxion and 10.2 mm rope that stopped an eight metre freefall ( factor 0.3 ) ( don't ask ) .

The rope came out of it encouraging well.

Edit Fall Factor
Post edited at 20:52
OP John Kelly 09 Apr 2017
In reply to Rick Graham:

8m - story there - traxion gaining ground
 Rick Graham 09 Apr 2017
In reply to John Kelly:

> 8m - story there - traxion gaining ground

You might find the Basic less easy to drop.

Borrow my old model one for a bit if you like.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...