UKH

Fingers crossed I´ll be in Nepal for a month or so coming autumn, mid october-mid november. We have pretty limited alpine experience but climbed a lot of ice and rock. Thinking of routes in the D-TD+ register on trekking peak, 6-6500m. Preferably in the category one long day out (not keen of sleeping in planned bivies)

Lowe route (East face) on Lobuche springs to mind but will that be formed so "early" in the season?
Something on Cholatse or Taboche would be awesome. Maybe the ridge (SW?) och Cholatse, doable from "camp 1" in one long day and back?

In reply to DanielJ:
No one? Then let me rephrase to something less specific. Someone climbed anything in Khumbu region that requires two axes? If so what was your experience? Or have a friends friend, read something on the web/magazines so on and so forth. Any input is welcome.

It seems to me that its easy to find info about PD, normal routes, and to some lesser extent the hardcore ED routes, but not anything in between ( if you count out Ama Dablam)

In reply to DanielJ:
If you want one-day technical routes you'll probably want to stick closer to 6000 than 6500m. There are technical routes on the east face of PhariLapcha/Machermo (near Kyajo Ri) and the north faces of the Kangchung Peaks (Cholo etc) in the Gokyo Valley and some good looking lines on the north faces of Lobuje West and Nirekha from the Changri Glacier, up west of Kala Pattar etc.

e.g http://www.summitpost.org/lobuche-e-6119m-lobuche-w-6145m-nirekha-6159m/743...

e.g http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200439802/Asia-Nepal-...

In reply to Damo: thanks for the info.
you are def. right about the altitude for one day hits. However Cholatse sw ridge doesnt seem that technical so there I guess we'll be fine clumbing with a bigger pack.

You heard/seen if the ice couloir on Lobuche east face been climbed lately?

In reply to DanielJ:
Last time I remember seeing something about the Lowe route, it was that it was too dry. A few recent post-monsoons have been like that.

But there was this:
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/night-terror-lobuche-east-ka...
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11w/newswire-lobuje-east

The SW ridge of Cholatse got quite a few (relatively) commercial guided ascents last autumn, so you may have company if you go there.

In reply to DanielJ:

Hi,
I'm planning to climb Kyajo Ri in early Oct this year. Have trekked Kanchenjunga N/S base camp, and in China & Taiwan. Likely 18 days altogether in Nepal. Leaning towards using local guide in Lakla. If you or others are interested let's get in touch.

Ben (based in Hong Kong)

More info on Kyajo Ri:

http://cosleyhouston.com/kyajo-ri.htm