UKH

A friend and I are planning a long weekend of ice climbing in early March (either 2nd - 5th or 9th - 12th) - we were thinking Rjukan, Ecrins, Cogne, etc. Where would you recommend, given current conditions and the time we are going? Thanks in advance.

In reply to BarneyLoosemore:
Just sat on a sunny terrace in the Ecrins (about 2 km from the Fournel Valley) now, enjoying a cup of tea wearing only a t-shirt... it's 15 C...

The Ecrins may not be the best choice; it's forecast to remain warm for the next week at least.

In reply to BarneyLoosemore:

Yes I'd like to know too, got beginning of March off!

In reply to BarneyLoosemore:
We were in Cogne two weeks ago. Not that much better than here. The annual cross country ski comp was cancelled due to lack of snow. That said, we did Ascheronte but the top of Lillaz cascade had a big hole in it, so we went skiing. Quite a few of the icefalls on the east side of the Lillaz Valley had big gaps on the first pitch. The forecast suggests a few cold nights but quite a few warm days to come. Pity...

In reply to BarneyLoosemore:

I've just got back from Gavarnie - brilliant. Loads of ice although it was crusty and very insecure, be fine with a few thaw freeze cycles.

The cirque holds the cold air really well and even on good days wasn't busy. Which I'm assuming is because the easiest routes are 300m at solid V 5.

There's some very high icefalls and the place sees zero sun.

As usual, lyngen area is the answer. It's a bad year and there is still loads, we're here till 3rd March. Google 'north norway ice'. It could all melt but less likely than most place.

In reply to Nick Harvey:
aha, there you are. Hows things going for you?
Im heading north on wednesday but unfortunately only to Stora Sjöfallet. Sördalen will have to wait until mid march. (Gotta give Rubbsnyten a go, doesnt get much more estetically than that)

You been down in Sördalen? Or climbed something nice and long around Lyngen? We will be based in the nice KJF hut in Tennevoll, Lavangen (dirt cheap!) so preferably climb "down south"

In reply to DanielJ:

Hi Daniel, it's going okay thanks. Have two kids now so a touch out of practice! First trip in three years.

Reckon Rubbsnyten will be in? It was thin when we went there last and this is a thinner year. Good luck though.

We're based in Skibotn. Discovered orndalen canyon in kafjordalen this trip and it's mega. Perhaps too mega...

In reply to Nick Harvey: Wishful thinking I know, it wasnt in last year either and that year was at least average with both Rubben and Skredbekken in decent condition. You heard anything about Sördalen this year?

Lyngen sure sounds nice, gotta go there in a combined trip with Senja. Maybe next year after (more wishful thinking) we clear out Spans/Sördalen. Enthusiasm sure helps but being a a time constricted father with a dad bod doesnt...

In reply to BarneyLoosemore:

Rjukan could be a gamble. It's not that high and quite far south. It all depends on when temperatures start warming up. The safe bet would be to go somewhere higher and/or somewhere more Northern / central where more likely to remain cold for longer.

In reply to DanielJ:

Oh, I feel your pain.

No, not heard I'm afraid. My feeling is its a touch lean everywhere?

Been to the two canyons up in kafjordalen in the last couple of days. Just book a fortnight and go there. Sorted.

In reply to Nick Harvey:
Ha! Only if... You'll sort out the missus. Im glad if I get a prolonged weekend. Sördalen is actually doable in a cheap and logistic wonder for me, 4-5 days, flying to Luleå, leaving the kid at her grandparents, rent cheap car, drive 8-9 hours, stay at KJF hut (total steal at 100SEK/night) climb 2-3 days, repeat, back home.

Hope you guys have a good time! Take lot of photos and blog something so we not in the Lyngen loop can have something to dream about.

In reply to DanielJ:

Will do. Am updating the guideblog and then will start a new thread - in my ongoing quest to get people to look beyond Rjukan!