Cirque De Gavarnie

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 JackM92 26 Dec 2016
Thinking of heading out to the Pryenees in early February, does anyone know how reliable the Cirque De Gavarnie icefalls are?

 Mr. Lee 27 Dec 2016
In reply to JackM92:

I read a good article by Stevie Haston years ago. I remember him saying the conditions were not reliable but the climbing when in condition is amazing. Sounds like somewhere that definitely needs a backup Plan B.
 Doug 27 Dec 2016
In reply to Mr. Lee:

I've heard the same but I've also heard that places like Bielsa not very far away in Spain are more reliable so could be a plan B
 alexm198 27 Dec 2016
In reply to JackM92:

Tangential, but I spoke to Tim Emmett a few years back who described the Cirque du Gavarnie as one of the most awesome but terrifying places he's ever been... Enjoy!
 nniff 28 Dec 2016
In reply to alexm198:

what he said.

Cirque du Troumousse is an alternative on a smaller scale when Gavarnie looks to be a complicated way of committing suicide
OP JackM92 03 Jan 2017
In reply to alexm198:

Due to the avalanche risk from above?
 alexm198 03 Jan 2017
In reply to JackM92:

Because it was all falling down!
 nniff 03 Jan 2017
In reply to JackM92:

Scale, avalanche risk from above and on the walk in (which is not inconsiderable), susceptability to changes in temperature and attendant collapse. All good clean type 2-3 fun.

Put it this way, I never even got there - we stopped at the summer hotel (which is closed for the winter). The booming and roaring from the hills in the cloud all around was fearsome. We dumped our packs, and went for a light footed foray further up the path. Then there was a huge roar that kept on getting bigger and bigger. We ran for the shelter of the hotel and shortly thereafter were 'whumped' by shattered snowflakes spewed out by the unseen monster. We fled as fast as we could and went skiing, which gave great views of the Cirque when the cloud cleared. It also confirmed that we were not going to go anywhere near the place on that trip.

The cirque du Troumousse was also exciting, but not that exciting. The six inches of snow that fell swiftly while we did a route added to the excitement, especially as it rapidly filled useful parts of the lower couloir (like the stances) to a depth of five to six feet. If it had not stopped once we got back to the car, we'd probably still be there, as once the snow stopped the owner of the auberge opened up his garage and started up an ancient Massey Ferguson tractor fitted with a snow plough. We followed him for fifteen miles and about two hours.

Troumousse has a large summer refuge with a winter establishment near by.
 Tom Briggs 04 Jan 2017
In reply to JackM92:
I climbed there in February 2008, when it was in decent but not mega condition. It's worth waiting to see how the season shapes up down there. It's a spectacular venue, though I'm not sure it's any more dangerous in terms of avalanche risk than some of the venues in popular areas like Cogne? At least you can see the danger, rather than it being hidden from view! There are other places to climb within an hour's drive of Luz St Saveur, but probably not so easy to get information. I was lucky enough to climb with a local guide, as I was doing a 'recce' for work. Anyway, it's worth a visit if you hear it's in condition. The walk in is no big deal. Popular with the Spanish so it does get busy.

Here's an old article I did for UKC at the time http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=831
Post edited at 10:33
 tintinandpip 04 Jan 2017
In reply to JackM92:
Tom's Gavarnie article is excellent and we used it in 2010 . Great venue. ( Some pics on my UKC photos) Use camptocamp website to track recent ascents and local webcam.
I have also included some links to the mountian routes on Vignemale, you will need to check when the the hut opens ( The Oulettes de Gaube Hut) as it varies depending upon conditions.
As mentioned Bielsa is excellent, unfortunately the guide book is out of print and difficult to get hold of. ( I have a photo copy of the guide, if you want a copy email me)

The book "Roca,nieve y hielo en Pirineos" (ISBN 84-95760-08-8) is the Spanish version of the French book Pyrenees passion and whilst somewhat old school it is still a great starting point for general information. ( I think you can still get hold of it ? )

Hopefully these links will also help.



http://respyrations.fr/en-ce-moment/face-nord-du-vignemale/

http://www.summitpost.org/vignemale-massif/151265

http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/594752/fr/cascades-de-bielsa-n-el-carnaval...

 Mr Lopez 04 Jan 2017
In reply to JackM92:

To track conditions this page should be helpful. It's in spanish but it's got photos, and it also has links to e-mail the contributors which is a nice touch if you want to get more detailed info. http://www.infohielo.com/asp/condicporzona.asp?Zona=Gavarnie

I'd sugest to keep your options open (and a car handy) to get the best conditions as they can be fickle. On the left sidebar you got liks to check the reports in the most popular crags.
 Phil Tucker 04 Jan 2017
In reply to JackM92:

I have unused copies of

GAVARNIE cascades de hielo

Pirineos Ascension en mixto, nieve y hielo

For sale from a trip a few years ago that never came off if you're interested.

Phil

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