Dissertation - Questionnaire - Approved by Admin

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Danchapman 11 Dec 2016
Hey guys, i am doing a dissertation on rock climbing and was wondering if you guy and girls would mind filling it out and spreading it amongst your clubs. Thank you very much. Feel free to post on here if you have any qeustions

https://goo.gl/forms/Orkggn92G8KV8WG02
3
 Doug 11 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

nice to see the draft results 'so far' after finishing.
But "I am concerned about choking" ?
 Purple 11 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:
BMC qualifications?

Are they not Mountain Training's qualifications?
Danchapman 11 Dec 2016
In reply to Doug:
choking up oops changed now thank you
Danchapman 11 Dec 2016
In reply to Purple:

you may be right i will look into and edit the question if needed thank you
abseil 11 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

Done, good luck.

PS There are some spelling mistakes in the questionnaire - you might remove them before the dissertation marker/s see them.
Danchapman 11 Dec 2016
In reply to abseil:

Thank you very much and i will take that onboard
abseil 11 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

PS Thanks a lot for the "responses so far" feature at the end. That is interesting stuff, and much appreciated.
 Fraser 11 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

Sorry, I had to give up. With too many of the question it wasn't really clear what you were asking or the responses I gave would be ambiguous. Also the number of spelling mistakes really annoyed me, petty as that is, it's just not acceptable for a study at a dissertation level.
 Bobling 11 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

What % of your climbing is indoors needs refining. My answer would be something like - c. 1% in the last five years, but 100% in the last month as I've recently started going to the wall regularly in an attempt to get stronger. I'd expect in summer to spend a lot more time outside than inside. If you put 'within the last year' in the question you'd have a much clearer idea of what you are measuring.

Spelling mistake in anxiety in page 3 or something then in a header.

I love the idea that I might feel 'tight' ; )
1
Danchapman 12 Dec 2016
In reply to Bobling:
Thanks for the advice ive made a few changes to the spelling :/
Danchapman 12 Dec 2016
In reply to Fraser:

Im sorry you felt like that.
The aim is to profile climbers.
Look at self efficacy and then anxiety .
Unfortunately my spelling is terrible i apologise and will try and sort it out
 bpmclimb 12 Dec 2016
Done. Not a bad questionnaire, as these things go - we get a lot of ill-informed and hastily flung together ones on here. Just a few comments:

Free soloing seemed only to offer sport grades (unless I missed something): actually, I mostly free solo trad routes.

The wording needs more care in places: at times the meaning was a bit obscured.

What is "choking up", exactly?
Danchapman 12 Dec 2016
In reply to bpmclimb:

thank you
 mike123 12 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:
Done. Interestingly my spelling is also very poor and so I didn't notice / wasn't bothered . However if you are going to use this as part of your dissertation then you should get a couple of people to proof read and get it corrected as you should with anything you hand in , get one of the spelling pedants ( I don't mean that to be taken as a negative thing ) on here to do it If you don't know anybody you trust . It might have been an idea to get a few people to do the questionnaire first before making it live and then editing it. Don't take it personally . Saying the spelling is poor is imho constructive criticism , much better than just saying its sh1t. Wouldn't be a bad idea for others to put a post up asking for a few strangers to do a survey first and give some feedback/ criticism.
Post edited at 10:00
 TheGeneralist 12 Dec 2016
In reply to OP:
Gave up when I saw the words "Free Solo".
Can we have a version written in English please?

 Simon Caldwell 12 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

"What percentage of your climbing is outdoors ?"
What is Option 16?
 toad 12 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

I know it's a google problem, not your design, but those previous reply pie charts are just dreadful!
 David Alcock 12 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

On the results page, you have hvs twice, once in the right place, and also between vd and severe.
 summo 12 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

lost the will at 'I feel jittery', if you simply don't feel jittery, how can it have either a positive, negative or any effect. Also if I don't mind or preferring coaching any ages group, ie have no favourites, what option should I pick. Your questions are overly complex and if you use words which you then have to explain in smaller text, perhaps that's a hint you should have used more straightforward questions and answers in the first place.

Danchapman 12 Dec 2016
In reply to summo:

hey summo, sorry u felt like that . it does state if you dont feel jittery please enter 4 for no effect.
i will take this onboard and make changes at somepoint
Danchapman 12 Dec 2016
In reply to mike123:

thank you will take this onboard
Danchapman 12 Dec 2016
In reply to TheGeneralist:
what would you call it ? instead of free solo

Danchapman 12 Dec 2016
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

sorry that wasnt ment to be there google seemed to add that in.
 summo 12 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:
> hey summo, sorry u felt like that . it does state if you dont feel jittery please enter 4 for no effect.

what about coaching age group preference, as you don't have a no preference option. You could infer that people who coach age group X don't feel jittery, but in reality most people who are experienced enough to teach, won't feel any tension at the start of an average route or climbing day, but those chose an age group at random just to allow the quiz to progress.

> i will take this onboard and make changes at somepoint

changes to questions or rephrasing mid way through would be bad practice and potentially throw data out.
Post edited at 15:15
 TheGeneralist 12 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

Solo.

Free Solo just means that you're doing it without aid. Which to 99.99% of uk climbers is a given. (Apologies if the survey is intended for yanks as well)
Danchapman 12 Dec 2016
In reply to TheGeneralist:

thanks for that i didnt realise the difference and yea it has been posted on an international forum aswell.
Although thanks learnt something new
Danchapman 12 Dec 2016
In reply to TheGeneralist:

Ahh ok learnt something new
but it has also been posted on an international forum . that why there is a grade conversion chart at the start
Danchapman 12 Dec 2016
In reply to summo:

thank you , im making a questionaire from the results of this one so would take that onboard i wouldnt change this one now.
 uphillnow 13 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

Good luck with this but like others posted its simplistic and poorly put together. Use of wall - so different in summer to winter. Favourite climbing - both trad and sport. And so on and so on.
 Fakey Rocks 18 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:
% of climbing Outdoors...
Which country just uk residents? ... During summer / winter / when you have plenty / little spare time... When u have no partner available, no transport / no easy access to outdoor crags / when u can't afford to / don't have time to spend alot of winter where it is warmer?

Perhaps if you asked what % you would ideally like to be Outdoors if weather permitted and access was easy, maybe this would identify a % that would still go to the wall.
But Outdoors could be on my doorstep, and the wall 20 miles away.

To be able to select a percentage or 1 to 5 number for each discipline would be better. Top rope is not really a uk discipline, more of a beginners and instructors necessity, although outside uk it can be common.

Why put lead in brackets after sport climbing? I thought if anywhere it could be more relevant after trad, otherwise with both?

Putting flash in brackets after on sight... Perhaps this is useful, as it implies you may have some or loads of beta for an outdoor route, making it almost like an indoor onsight as in most cases mentally doing the route first is possible as it is easy to see the way from hold to hold.
If you omitted the use of "(flash)" , an outdoor onsight is often going to be loads harder than indoor, as you have to figure out best hand and foot placements from perhaps many red herrings, but indoors its more obvious where to go.

The hardest route i "ever" climbed... But i just had a 5 or 10 year break and only just started trying indoors stuff, so haven't reached the level i used to climb Outdoors at yet....

Body feels tight
Body feels Tense
Difference?

Actually id say feeling jittery /tense / tight / heart racing / tense in my stomach / my stomach is sinking /... are mostly facets of the same thing, anxiety, but slightly different ways of expressing it, they all summarise you are feeling anxious / edgey...
However i see from results some may feel one or more of these but not others, so it was worth the elaboration to see the ways people feel climbing anxiety.

What is more of interest is why? .. Do you feel this because

a) There may be 1 or more scary / dangerous sections, or
b) the route may be safe but you have tried many times to redpoint it and hope this is the one, but are worried it might not be
c) you are often nervous generally
d) you tried it before and fell (safely? / badly?)
e) perhaps all climbing makes you go on edge
f) you may be a fearful / fearless beginner
g) you may be a fearful / fearless experienced climber
h) you are on holiday and this is your last chance / the tide is coming in / it will be dark soon / looks like it might rain/snow/get too sunny/you are going to miss the buss/train/plane/ not make it to the loo.

etc
( lets assume the following are not factors.... perhaps you just drank too much strong coffee or you simply are dying for a pee or poo but are holding it off)

Concerned about falling... What kind of fall, big / small / on a section with protrusions / slab / going round an overhang with gear only after you get round it / onto a bolt / onto a tiny wire / a sea cliff peg / on a traverse with a swing into or not into something / do you trust your gear / do you know all the gear you can place is bombproof / have you done the route before / are you a beginner or experienced at placing gear / is the gear run out / how well do you know your belayer?.... etttttttc

Results as bar graphs is easier to read than pie charts.

Who is allowed to solo routes indoors? Where?

Facilitative / debilitative... What's wrong with plain english.. helpful / not helpful (or... a problem, or, a hindrance)
.
Post edited at 15:30
 Fraser 18 Dec 2016
In reply to Danchapman:

Can I ask if you actually climb yourself?
 johncook 18 Dec 2016
In reply to Fraser:

I would suspect not to any great degree. Probably indoors mostly, from the wording of the survey. (Which I gave up on!)

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