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I used to jam well on grit. The years passed. I moved to Wales and after 25 years, trad became red pointing, red pointing reverted back to my first love bouldering. Then someone suggested a trip to the peak. You never forget how to jam right?...... what could go wrong? A warm up on gg (which should have been a warning as i struggled like a true duffer on the first 10 foot, but as usual I denied everything and blamed it on the journey up) then the aretes either side just to prove everything was OK really.
Off then to Joe's masterpiece. Quietus . Looks easy. Up to the roof. Cams. Out to the lip. Cam in the crack above. Easy. Back for a rest/psych. Out again. Cam is in the finger lock slot just where I want my finger. Bugger. Back again. Rest/double psych. Out again (getting good at this bit now). Cam still in the part I want my finger but what the hey its super safe cause the gears level with my nose. Reach above... hmm that's flared. Try higher... just as shit. Leg up, heel on, elbows out, tongue out, eyeballs out by now. Wish that bloody cam was out but it wasn't and then the inevitable. Off. Bollocks.
Off then to Joe's masterpiece. Quietus . Looks easy. Up to the roof. Cams. Out to the lip. Cam in the crack above. Easy. Back for a rest/psych. Out again. Cam is in the finger lock slot just where I want my finger. Bugger. Back again. Rest/double psych. Out again (getting good at this bit now). Cam still in the part I want my finger but what the hey its super safe cause the gears level with my nose. Reach above... hmm that's flared. Try higher... just as shit. Leg up, heel on, elbows out, tongue out, eyeballs out by now. Wish that bloody cam was out but it wasn't and then the inevitable. Off. Bollocks.
23
In reply to string arms:
I found Wall Climb (VS 5a) at Curbar ridiculously technical for 5a.
I found Wall Climb (VS 5a) at Curbar ridiculously technical for 5a.
Post edited at 18:49
In reply to Jamie B:
Yes, there must be a tidy way of doing this but I've never really figured out what it is.
Yes, there must be a tidy way of doing this but I've never really figured out what it is.
In reply to string arms:
I'm still waiting to amass the required energy to make my way up The Trident (E1 5b)
I'm still waiting to amass the required energy to make my way up The Trident (E1 5b)
4
In reply to string arms:
Leg Slip convinced me I was forever going to be an HVS struggler. The blank crux groove with its poor hold on the right Arête and the necessity to levitate upward and beyond it is still one of the most technical moves I have come across. My ass was kicked, Brown style...
Leg Slip convinced me I was forever going to be an HVS struggler. The blank crux groove with its poor hold on the right Arête and the necessity to levitate upward and beyond it is still one of the most technical moves I have come across. My ass was kicked, Brown style...
1
In reply to string arms:
First route I ever fell off was Bachelor's Left Hand HVS on Hen Cloud (Whilans), but I got back on and did it. Hen Cloud Eliminate however just stomped all over me.
First route I ever fell off was Bachelor's Left Hand HVS on Hen Cloud (Whilans), but I got back on and did it. Hen Cloud Eliminate however just stomped all over me.
In reply to alan moore:
Me too, that's exactly what happened to me. I was leading E1/HVS with ease many moons ago but peeled right off trying to lead Leg Slip. I barely managed to follow it after my second took over and led it. I hate Leg Slip.
Edit, I see it's E1 5b now, that's more like it. It was HVS then.
> Leg Slip convinced me I was forever going to be an HVS struggler. The blank crux groove with its poor hold on the right Ar£ and the necessity to levitate upward and beyond it is still one of the most technical moves I have come across. My ass was kicked, Brown style...
Me too, that's exactly what happened to me. I was leading E1/HVS with ease many moons ago but peeled right off trying to lead Leg Slip. I barely managed to follow it after my second took over and led it. I hate Leg Slip.
Edit, I see it's E1 5b now, that's more like it. It was HVS then.
Post edited at 19:37
In reply to string arms:
If Ramshaw Crack counts I got my arse handed to me on that. Although tbh I didn't Really expect to onsight it. Problem is it's so exhausting I wouldn't have been able to have two goes on it in the same session so I'm going to have to go back! <shudder>
If Ramshaw Crack counts I got my arse handed to me on that. Although tbh I didn't Really expect to onsight it. Problem is it's so exhausting I wouldn't have been able to have two goes on it in the same session so I'm going to have to go back! <shudder>
In reply to alan moore:
Leg Slip's a little bugger. I wouldn't let that put you off doing loads of E1s and E2s.
Mick
> Leg Slip convinced me I was forever going to be an HVS struggler...
Leg Slip's a little bugger. I wouldn't let that put you off doing loads of E1s and E2s.
Mick
1
In reply to string arms:
Tower Crack (HVS 5b) that's Brown isn't it? Seemed nails although not the crack itself.
Tower Crack (HVS 5b) that's Brown isn't it? Seemed nails although not the crack itself.
In reply to string arms:
That short roof at Brimham with an innocuous name. I thought it was giggling crack, but couldn't find it.
... And many others besides
That short roof at Brimham with an innocuous name. I thought it was giggling crack, but couldn't find it.
... And many others besides
In reply to string arms:
The Fang is another cruxy one, which involves some falling-with-style around a blind arête with the tree tops waving somewhere beneath your feet.
Perhaps I was doing it wrong.
The Fang is another cruxy one, which involves some falling-with-style around a blind arête with the tree tops waving somewhere beneath your feet.
Perhaps I was doing it wrong.
2
In reply to string arms:
JJoe's Hanging Crack (E3 6a)
A disappointing and desperate struggle.
Emotional!
JJoe's Hanging Crack (E3 6a)
A disappointing and desperate struggle.
Emotional!
1
In reply to Mick Ward:
Strangely, I don't remember Leg Slip being too bad at VS in about 1972, though technically hard.
About 3 years later we were totally defeated by Ferdinand (now E2 5b, not sure what it was given then). Desperate.
Rift Wall (VS 5a), then called Anthropology, I recall finding hard for the grade.
Strangely, I don't remember Leg Slip being too bad at VS in about 1972, though technically hard.
About 3 years later we were totally defeated by Ferdinand (now E2 5b, not sure what it was given then). Desperate.
Rift Wall (VS 5a), then called Anthropology, I recall finding hard for the grade.
1
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Gordon, you were going well! I've done Leg Slip three times over the years. It's hard. And it goes on... and on.
Agree with Rift Wall/Anthropology - awkward and hard for the grade.
Did Ferdinand with almost totally frozen hands and one runner about 10 feet up (on the hard start). There was melt water running down the top of the crack. My mate was screaming at me to get some gear in but I had really bad hot aches and was almost fainting from the pain. Best to press on! I've no earthly idea how hard it is/isn't. At least I got my money's worth.
My present climbing partner did it back in the day, when he was cruising E5. He also found it desperate and felt he was going to be sick at the top. At least he got his money's worth.
The more I think of Brown's routes - the futuristic lines they took (e.g. Vector) - the more I think he had a climbing genius denied anyone else apart from Johnny Dawes.
Mick
Gordon, you were going well! I've done Leg Slip three times over the years. It's hard. And it goes on... and on.
Agree with Rift Wall/Anthropology - awkward and hard for the grade.
Did Ferdinand with almost totally frozen hands and one runner about 10 feet up (on the hard start). There was melt water running down the top of the crack. My mate was screaming at me to get some gear in but I had really bad hot aches and was almost fainting from the pain. Best to press on! I've no earthly idea how hard it is/isn't. At least I got my money's worth.
My present climbing partner did it back in the day, when he was cruising E5. He also found it desperate and felt he was going to be sick at the top. At least he got his money's worth.
The more I think of Brown's routes - the futuristic lines they took (e.g. Vector) - the more I think he had a climbing genius denied anyone else apart from Johnny Dawes.
Mick
2
In reply to abseil:
Leg Slip is one of his!? holy crap. That was my second E1 and I was sure I was going to die. Actually started thinking about my family and everything! Jeez
Leg Slip is one of his!? holy crap. That was my second E1 and I was sure I was going to die. Actually started thinking about my family and everything! Jeez
6
In reply to Mick Ward:
Yes. I suspect Herford, too, possibly. But killed at the age of 24, so hard to tell.
> The more I think of Brown's routes - the futuristic lines they took (e.g. Vector) - the more I think he had a climbing genius denied anyone else apart from Johnny Dawes.
Yes. I suspect Herford, too, possibly. But killed at the age of 24, so hard to tell.
2
In reply to string arms:
Every one at Wimberry, bar Coffin Crack...
Still not got up the fecking Trident.
Every one at Wimberry, bar Coffin Crack...
Still not got up the fecking Trident.
2
In reply to Removed User:
I think - may be wrong - that Trident was about his very first new route, when he'd only been climbing a few months, and i think before he went into National Service ? ? (Haven't got the appropriate guide books near me at the moment.)
I think - may be wrong - that Trident was about his very first new route, when he'd only been climbing a few months, and i think before he went into National Service ? ? (Haven't got the appropriate guide books near me at the moment.)
2
In reply to TobyA:
I found tower crack nails so you're not alone.
> Tower Crack (HVS 5b) that's Brown isn't it? Seemed nails although not the crack itself.
I found tower crack nails so you're not alone.
1
In reply to string arms:
On further thought there are Brown routes I couldn't get up with 400 quid's worth of gear while he was doing them in the 1950s with old junk gear and poor footwear jeez. I mean honestly think I'll take up golf instead
The more I climb the more I admire JB
On further thought there are Brown routes I couldn't get up with 400 quid's worth of gear while he was doing them in the 1950s with old junk gear and poor footwear jeez. I mean honestly think I'll take up golf instead
The more I climb the more I admire JB
3
In reply to string arms:
Right Eliminate Curbar. What a fight. Didn't stop me but it was an only just and I was cruising E5 at the time and had soloed Quietus. Consider how the routes were done and the gear. Britains best ever rock climber and a brilliant mountaineer also. That kind of neck doesn't exist today.
Right Eliminate Curbar. What a fight. Didn't stop me but it was an only just and I was cruising E5 at the time and had soloed Quietus. Consider how the routes were done and the gear. Britains best ever rock climber and a brilliant mountaineer also. That kind of neck doesn't exist today.
6
2
In reply to string arms:
I love it when you see a Brown route in a modern guidebook described as 'hard for the short'!
I love it when you see a Brown route in a modern guidebook described as 'hard for the short'!
5
In reply to string arms:
Deadbay Crack at Curbar. It's actually a Whillans' route but I'm counting it as in.
I think it was HVS when I tried it and I was climbing well, looks nice and short, perfect for a warm up and then onto something harder I thought.
In retrospect the facts that it was both short and a Whillans' route should have been a warning that it might not be the ideal warm-up.
Some considerable time later I topped out after dogging the crux to death and ruining my day's climbing as my arms had basically stopped working from the dreaded pump.
As I said I was climbing well at the time and my ever supportive climbing partner thought it hilarious that I'd dogged it, to the point that he took the time to take a photo of me hanging off the rope to record it for prosperity!
Respect to Whillans!(and to Brown, I'm sure he strolled up it)!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=42169
Deadbay Crack at Curbar. It's actually a Whillans' route but I'm counting it as in.
I think it was HVS when I tried it and I was climbing well, looks nice and short, perfect for a warm up and then onto something harder I thought.
In retrospect the facts that it was both short and a Whillans' route should have been a warning that it might not be the ideal warm-up.
Some considerable time later I topped out after dogging the crux to death and ruining my day's climbing as my arms had basically stopped working from the dreaded pump.
As I said I was climbing well at the time and my ever supportive climbing partner thought it hilarious that I'd dogged it, to the point that he took the time to take a photo of me hanging off the rope to record it for prosperity!
Respect to Whillans!(and to Brown, I'm sure he strolled up it)!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=42169
Post edited at 10:48
1
In reply to string arms:
Teck Crack (E1 5c)#overview
Which was graded HVS 5b at the time, and I was thinner, younger, suppler, and was reasonably good at jamming!
Teck Crack (E1 5c)#overview
Which was graded HVS 5b at the time, and I was thinner, younger, suppler, and was reasonably good at jamming!
In reply to string arms:
Cave Crack (E3 5c) at Froggatt. The scar on my jammed forearm took months to heal! HVS - yeah really,
Chris
Cave Crack (E3 5c) at Froggatt. The scar on my jammed forearm took months to heal! HVS - yeah really,
Chris
1
In reply to string arms:
Unprintable at Stanage. I spent ages hunched up in the cave before managing to aid/jam my way out. Probably one of he few routes that's harder if you are tall.
Unprintable at Stanage. I spent ages hunched up in the cave before managing to aid/jam my way out. Probably one of he few routes that's harder if you are tall.
2
In reply to wilkesley:
Unprintable is one of the very few routes I've tried and walked away from. HARRRRD.
Unprintable is one of the very few routes I've tried and walked away from. HARRRRD.
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I really sympathize with that. However, it's the adjacent 1958 Whillans routeCave Wall (E3 5c) that scares me. I just don't have the guts to try it....
> Cave Crack at Froggatt. The scar on my jammed forearm took months to heal! HVS - yeah really,
I really sympathize with that. However, it's the adjacent 1958 Whillans routeCave Wall (E3 5c) that scares me. I just don't have the guts to try it....
3
1
In reply to abseil:
I'd give Cave Wall E4 any day of the week. It looks bold and easy, it's actually bold and tricky (for the grade).
> I really sympathize with that. However, it's the adjacent 1958 Whillans routeCave Wall (E3 5c) that scares me. I just don't have the guts to try it....
I'd give Cave Wall E4 any day of the week. It looks bold and easy, it's actually bold and tricky (for the grade).
In reply to abseil:
Well I have led Cave Wall more times than I have led Cave Crack which must say something!
Chris
> I really sympathize with that. However, it's the adjacent 1958 Whillans routeCave Wall (E3 5c) that scares me. I just don't have the guts to try it....
Well I have led Cave Wall more times than I have led Cave Crack which must say something!
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Right... Cave Wall's much more my kind of route, I just don't have the nerve. Maybe one of these days....
> Well I have led Cave Wall more times than I have led Cave Crack which must say something!...
Right... Cave Wall's much more my kind of route, I just don't have the nerve. Maybe one of these days....
In reply to string arms:
Brown's Crack (E2 5c) at ramshaw put me swiftly back in my place.
I jammed my way over the roof on painful bloody fist jams, expecting to find a half decent jam or hold to pull to victory on. only to see nothing other than a widening crack that my fist was all ready ratting loose in.
Brown's Crack (E2 5c) at ramshaw put me swiftly back in my place.
I jammed my way over the roof on painful bloody fist jams, expecting to find a half decent jam or hold to pull to victory on. only to see nothing other than a widening crack that my fist was all ready ratting loose in.
2
1
5
In reply to MusicalMountaineer:
Yep, tried it twice. Had to take a rest both times. I'd forgotten i had a score to settle there.
Yep, tried it twice. Had to take a rest both times. I'd forgotten i had a score to settle there.
In reply to MusicalMountaineer:
I'm sure it's got harder as the crack and left wall have got worn a bit smoother...
> I won't be last I'm sure...
> Saul's Crack...
I'm sure it's got harder as the crack and left wall have got worn a bit smoother...
1
In reply to MusicalMountaineer:
Didn't realise that was a Brown route but did Saul's years ago and remember thinking it was pretty OK for an HVS - I hadn't done many at all back then. Total path compared to Tower Crack!
Didn't realise that was a Brown route but did Saul's years ago and remember thinking it was pretty OK for an HVS - I hadn't done many at all back then. Total path compared to Tower Crack!
1
2
In reply to string arms:
Bow Wall at Bosigran, a brute of a route...I doubt many of today's E4 and even E5 climbers would attempt it using the gear, rope and footwear he had in 1957....no sit harness, just a waistline / bowline that would cut you in half if you fell off......remarkable ascent......
Bow Wall at Bosigran, a brute of a route...I doubt many of today's E4 and even E5 climbers would attempt it using the gear, rope and footwear he had in 1957....no sit harness, just a waistline / bowline that would cut you in half if you fell off......remarkable ascent......
1
In reply to HappyTrundler:
Not about a brown route but similar era. I interviewed JH 'zeke' Deacon a couple of weeks ago. He told me about Green Cormorant Face, String of Pearls and Raven Wall in detail. On Green Cormorant Face, Zeke and Mike Banks had a hawser laid rope, a couple of slings and around three pegs. Although there were a couple of aid points, it was climbed predominantly free and on sight. Mike's wife took photos which I now have which show great guano streaks down the wall. A truly committing deed which certainly rivalled the brown routes of the time. Not sure how many modern climbers would fancy this with the equipment of the time. Oh, and he smoked two senior service after banging in the peg for the first aid point, "Mike, I think there's going to be a bit of artificial here."
James
Not about a brown route but similar era. I interviewed JH 'zeke' Deacon a couple of weeks ago. He told me about Green Cormorant Face, String of Pearls and Raven Wall in detail. On Green Cormorant Face, Zeke and Mike Banks had a hawser laid rope, a couple of slings and around three pegs. Although there were a couple of aid points, it was climbed predominantly free and on sight. Mike's wife took photos which I now have which show great guano streaks down the wall. A truly committing deed which certainly rivalled the brown routes of the time. Not sure how many modern climbers would fancy this with the equipment of the time. Oh, and he smoked two senior service after banging in the peg for the first aid point, "Mike, I think there's going to be a bit of artificial here."
James
Post edited at 13:25
2
In reply to james mann:
Any chance of having the interview/photos as an article on here or on Footless Crow? I'm sure there are loads of people who'd love to hear/read it. I certainly would.
His 1950s Irish routes Cornish Rhapsody at Glendalough and Spearhead at Luggala were also historically important, particularly the latter. As with Brown routes, they took impressive challenges, requiring considerable commitment.
Mick
Any chance of having the interview/photos as an article on here or on Footless Crow? I'm sure there are loads of people who'd love to hear/read it. I certainly would.
His 1950s Irish routes Cornish Rhapsody at Glendalough and Spearhead at Luggala were also historically important, particularly the latter. As with Brown routes, they took impressive challenges, requiring considerable commitment.
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
I am working on a more long term project about the south west at the moment. I don't really want to give too much away before it's done really. Is very, very far from completion but coming along.
Cheers
James
I am working on a more long term project about the south west at the moment. I don't really want to give too much away before it's done really. Is very, very far from completion but coming along.
Cheers
James
In reply to string arms:
Cemetery Gates
Thought I was doing well at the time....... but had a similar experience to Don Whillans in the 1985 BBC video "Whillan's Last Climb"
youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4&
Cemetery Gates
Thought I was doing well at the time....... but had a similar experience to Don Whillans in the 1985 BBC video "Whillan's Last Climb"
youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4&
1
In reply to string arms:
Fortunetly not Brown's Eliminate, Jeepers Creepers however spat me off good and proper
Fortunetly not Brown's Eliminate, Jeepers Creepers however spat me off good and proper
2
In reply to string arms:
Saul's is OK no it's much better than that, it's beautiful technical climbing spot on for the grade. Also Cemetery Gates is nothing too desperate , just impressive situation. I bottled it on Great Slab not having any beta but found it OK on the TR, and instantly regretting not pushing myself on lead. Again it's lovely technical climbing.
Saul's is OK no it's much better than that, it's beautiful technical climbing spot on for the grade. Also Cemetery Gates is nothing too desperate , just impressive situation. I bottled it on Great Slab not having any beta but found it OK on the TR, and instantly regretting not pushing myself on lead. Again it's lovely technical climbing.
Post edited at 15:00
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