Light warm and technical - Winter Boots

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I need some new boots for this winter for Scotland but I'm massively out of touch with what's available and good.

I've been using La Sportiva Spantiks exclusively for the last 4 winters (colder climes) on routes up to WI6/M7 (wave that willy, wave that willy). I also own a 12 year old pair of Scarpa Cumbres which I'd quite like to retire once and for all, want something lighter for routes in the VI-VII (Maybe VIII if I get dragged up a harder route by mates)

Obviously I'll buy something that fits well, that's a no brainer. But, what boots have you winter wads been using and what makes them good/bad? Built in gaiters? Thin soles? Not warm enough? Too sweaty. Lacing etc.

Cheers!

P.S. must fit Petzl Lynx
Post edited at 10:04
 HeMa 22 Sep 2015
In reply to Fultonius:

Similar if not more warmth as the Spantik, yet less bulky and lighter -> Sportiva G2 SM (new this season). New Mammut Nordwand something doubleboots might also be an option. As would Scarpa Phantom 6000.

For less warmth (ie. single boots with supergaiters) Sportiva Batura, Scarpa Phantom Guide, Mammut Nordwand and Salewa Progaiter would be the ticket. Asolo and Boreal will also have something as such.

Sportiva Trango something (new this year) might also be a good high performance option. But it will not be warm.

My feet are around Eur 42 , and I'd look into getting sub 2000g per pair if a single boot with builtin gaiter. Naturally, the lighter you go, the less warmth and possible more fragile.

 zimpara 22 Sep 2015
In reply to Fultonius:

Light and warm don't go hand in hand. Unless you through money at it.

Ok, maybe some wires crossed here!

This is for Scottish winter, so double boots are waaaay overkill. Even Baturas / Phantom guides are at the warm end of the scale. I realise the title is a little misleading.

Was thinking more along the lines of Rebel Ultra GTX, Trango Ice Cube (weird name), Nepal Cube.
Post edited at 10:28
 wbo 22 Sep 2015
In reply to Fultonius: I'm very interested in Rebel Ultras too, so real world feedback would be appreciated.

 HeMa 22 Sep 2015
In reply to wbo:

> I'm very interested in Rebel Ultras too, so real world feedback would be appreciated.

Friend has 'em. And they are indeed great... but also light & high performance comes with the cost of durability.

He mainly uses them on single pitch ice, and doesn't clock that many days with them. He stated he'll prolly get only 2 seasons from them.

And he has different boots for colder or longer ice stuff and fruitboots for harder mixed.
In reply to wbo:
Unfortunately the Ultras are discontinued, so it'll have to be the Rebel Pros now. (although, that may just be rumours as I see them online in the shops and on the Scarpa website so who knows...)

Post edited at 10:42
In reply to Fultonius:

I'd quite like to get to try these on but I'm not sure what the availability will be like in the UK http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/mountain/trango-ice-cube-gtx
 HeMa 22 Sep 2015
In reply to Fultonius:
> I'd quite like to get to try these on but I'm not sure what the availability will be like in the UK http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/mountain/trango-ice-cube-gtx


It's a new model, not sure if they're in stock anywhere yet.


Though even to old Trango Extreme Evo Loight fgdgfhjfghkljxdgfkm
http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/lasportivatrangoextremeevolightgtx-p-39...

Is still a rather good boot.
Post edited at 10:56
In reply to HeMa:
And a much better price...


I have a pair of Trango Evo S which I find nice and comfy, so I could probably risk buying online.
Post edited at 10:58
 Brian Pollock 22 Sep 2015
In reply to Fultonius:
I've used rebel ultras (with Petzl lynx) for the past couple of years for everything from snow plods to Scottish VII. I don't have much to compare them to but I can't remember ever having noticed my feet whilst wearing them which can only be a good sign. My comments would be:

- They've certainly been warm enough for me in Scotland.
- They are pretty comfortable to walk in (within reason, I'm not going to take them for a jog).
- They are very low profile so good for sticking in cracks (size 41 feet right enough).
- The built in gaiter works well and has never leaked although its a bit tighter than the Phantom's gaiter so not really designed to tuck your trousers into though you probably could.
- In general, they aren't showing much wear after 2 years of pretty regular use.
- They were light enough to get up F&F at Newtyle.

Basically, they're pretty good boots and I personally haven't noticed any penalties in terms of durability or warmth for being so light / low profile. Of course, others may disagree.

The only thing I would say is that they can feel a bit odd when you try them on at first because they fit very snug. They sort of suck your foot in and initially I worried that they might be too tight but they have turned out fine. Definitely worth trying them on though.

Also I had to adjust the toe bails on my lynx to fit them properly as the front and back of the boot is pretty narrow so the toe was hanging quite far over the front of the crampon. You can move the toe bail back a slot or two though which sorted it and obviously you can adjust the position of the front point on the lynx to suit.
Post edited at 11:06
In reply to Brian Pollock:

Cheers Brian, just the type of info I was looking for.
 jonnie3430 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Fultonius:

Hello,

I;m looking for similar spec to Fultonius, can anyone let me know where to try them on in the Glasgow/Scotland area? I visited Tiso OE and Costwold yesterday but they didn't have much at all. I have Nepals (ten years old and worn out,) and Salewa Ravens (wear out quick and no toe bale, though lovely and light and mobile,) can anyone compare the fit to LS Baturas? I have heard they are narrower than Nepals. For Petzl Darts... I can order through Cotswold, though would rather help out a shop that has a range to try on.
 alasdair19 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Fultonius:

the new sportiva cubes look amazing for Scotland a Nepal that's lost a lot of weight but u still get a thick sole and what look like a good upper.

phantom guides are popular but prone to leaking apparently. the rebel gtx is supposed to be good.

alternatively be brave and by my aku 's of me got them a size to big by mistake despite determined fiddling they 'really too floppy.

fully rigid,carbon midsole. gore lined warm size 47. £180
In reply to jonnie3430:

Jonnie, they had some Nepal Cubes in Tiso OE the other day - did you try those?
 RBK 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Fultonius:
The new Phantom Tech is the weight of the Rebel Ultra but meant to be as warm as the current Phantom Guide.... It's not cheap though.
Post edited at 19:27
In reply to Fultonius: If you see any, it might also be worth trying on a pair of Scarpa Jorasses Pro. Not sure if they are officially discontinued or not, but they are REALLY good boots, and although not as crazy light as the Rebel series they are still light compared with most (c.1.6kg for eu42), warm enough for Scotland, comfortable and durable.
They were/are available at amazing prices compared to other options.

 BnB 08 Oct 2015
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

^^^^ +1 for this ^^^^

I picked up a pair brand new for only £175 and they are a perfect balance of warmth, comfort and weight. I'll be bereft when they need replacing. Come to think of it maybe I'll buy another pair before you do!!
 Morgan Woods 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Fultonius:

wow....they look awesome....I would probably go for them when replacing my Baturas down the track.
 Morgan Woods 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Fultonius:

> I'd quite like to get to try these on but I'm not sure what the availability will be like in the UK http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/mountain/trango-ice-cube-gtx

Would also be good in this day and age, if the boot guys could put in the tech specs which crampons they fit.
In reply to BnB:
> Come to think of it maybe I'll buy another pair before you do!!

Exactly my thoughts

Last winter another experienced Scottish winter climber pretty much convinced me that having a second pair for situations where drying facilities are limited would be really useful.

 jonnie3430 09 Oct 2015
In reply to Fultonius:

I thought they were evo's. The tiso guy said that they didn't have their winter range out yet and the ratho shop may have more climbing specific stuff. Cheers all!
Ysgo 09 Oct 2015
In reply to Morgan Woods:

> Would also be good in this day and age, if the boot guys could put in the tech specs which crampons they fit.

It would be nice, but I rarely see a boot and crampon not fit together pretty well. Some are better than others, but it's hard to get a bad fit these days. Saying that if you're in those Sportivas in a 37 or 48 you might have to adapt the crampon to fit, so I don't think making recommendations would work for all sizes.

Personally I think the Rebel Ultras look amazing but reckon the Phantom Ultra will be even nicer still (out this Winter sometime I hear).
cb294 09 Oct 2015
In reply to jonnie3430:

If Nepals fit you well, Baturas won´t (at least in my experience). Very different last, much narrower, even though made by the same company. Scarpa Phantoms are more similar in shape to Nepals.

CB
 rogerwebb 09 Oct 2015
In reply to Fultonius:

I have been very pleased with phantom guides warm dry and successfully resoled. fit lynx crampons.
There are lighter boots but often you need to add gaiters to weatherproof so are heavier.
Phantom guides are also rigid in large sizes (48 for me).
Having said that lot of new things coming, such as arctyrex boot.
In France at the moment and noticed that mammut do a nice looking boot with gaiter.
My view integral gaiters are good but climbing partner swears by trango evo s extrem gtx (the name is heavier than the boot!)

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