PRODUCT NEWS: The Dolomites - Pre-order Special Offer £25.

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 UKC Gear 10 Jul 2014
The Dolomites Rockfax montage, 4 kbThe new Dolomites ; Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata Rockfax guide is being published in the first week of August. Pre-order a copy now at a special offer price of £25.95 (£RRP £29.95) to receive it as soon as the stock arrives.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=6488
 matt perks 10 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Is there a list of routes (maybe with grades) to give a better idea of the coverage?

Feel free to berate me for only having looked for about 15 seconds!
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 10 Jul 2014
 matt perks 13 Jul 2014
In reply to James Rushforth:

No, no no - you don't get to berate me with that. I want to know what routes, not what crags. So, for example on Tre Cime, is Brandler-Hasse in, ISO 2000, Italo Svizzera, Spigolo Scoiatolli? On Marmolada, is Moden Zeiten in? Actually, I guess really I'm after the grade spread - so in comparison with the Kohler, Memmel guide does it go a bit harder, which would be good if I ever get my arse back out there with a bit of recent climbing under my belt, or is it kind of the same (or easier)?
In reply to matt perks:

Hi Matt

We are working on the UKC and Rockfax database entries for the guide which we should have done by the end of the week. After that you will be able to see the full routes list on the RF database.

> on Tre Cime, is Brandler-Hasse in, ISO 2000, Italo Svizzera, Spigolo Scoiatolli? On Marmolada, is Moden Zeiten in

I think that is yes, yes, no, no, no

Alan
 matt perks 29 Jul 2014
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Thanks Alan. I'll try to remember to keep checking.

Shame about Squirrel's Ridge and Moden Zeiten - I should think they would comfortably make a Dollies Top 50 if the guide was comprehensive (a bit like missing out Memory Lane, and Positron, from a N. Wales selected guide). However, I fully appreciate that you probably want to cover a reasonable range of routes well, rather than a large range of routes badly and I have yet to see a good, modern topo for either of them (well, haven't looked for a few years but the PlanetMountain one for Squirrel's Ridge used to be pants, for example).

I've always thought that what is needed for alpine areas is either some process of gradual/continuous updating and expansion, or some really effective collaborative translations of good, local guides. Having said that, the number of UK people who are likely to do enough in any alpine area to want a really wide selection of routes, is tiny and it's not Rockfax's job to make a loss writing a guide for them.

I hope the new guide gets a few more Brits out there onto some decent routes.
In reply to matt perks:
It is up there now - http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_area.html?id=1060

(Via Ferrata not yet up since we are putting those into a separate section).

Alan
Post edited at 09:36
Hi Matt,

Assuming you mean Moderne Zeiten on the Marmolada then this is in the guidebook, it's just under the Italian name Tempi Moderni - hence the confusion. Here's the link: http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=55444

It is a route that is definitely high up the never-ending 'to-do' list...


Rob
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 30 Jul 2014
In reply to matt perks:
Hi Matt, apologies for the unjustified berating then :P

As Rob says Tempi Moderni is in. I've used Italian names throughout the book due to the difficult logistics of including everything in 3 languages (though I've tried in areas where one language is prevalent). Squirrels ridge is not in, there simply isn't enough room to fit everything in - the popularity of this route as a classic is also questionable - it has 2 recorded ascents on UKC and Planetmountain - compare this to Comici-Dimai with well over 100. Not only that but the alpine nature of the routes as I'm sure you can appreciate makes recording difficult. There are around 1500 individual pitches in the book, a workload that is hard to appreciate unless you try to catalogue it! (Photoing it is another matter entirely).

However Bellavista is in, if you're feeling keen, with information kindly supplied by Calum Muskett and Dave Macleod. I'm told it's excellent.

The grades range from III to XI-, F4 to F8c, so there should be something for everyone.

If you're interested in more in-depth books to individual areas I'd recommend Versante Sud's 'Tre Cime, classic and modern routes' and 'Marmolada South Face'.

If you have any other routes you want to check made the final cut feel free to drop me an email.
Post edited at 16:07
 matt perks 30 Jul 2014
In reply to James Rushforth:

Marvellous, thank you. Use of Italian makes perfect sense - must be very confusing living in a bit of a country that can't make it's mind up about what to speak!

For future reference (2nd edition, when you get round to it , I believe Dave MacLeod has also done Squirrel's Ridge (or else someone with the same name offered beta on here many years ago) and both he and Ian Parnell showered it with superlatives but whether they can remember the details.... At some point I need to go back and drag my sorry arse up it but my original attempt was thwarted by not being able to work out which line to take through the massive roof above the Cassin hence a distant hankering for a decent topo. Having not been out for a few years I'm a bit out of touch and those Versante Sud guides look very interesting - they seem to have a Civetta one too and that might tempt me back onto that face, which is the most mountainous feel of anything I've done out there.

Best wishes

 matt perks 30 Jul 2014
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKC:

Ah, yes. Having done most of it but ending up on the thing to the L, I have a vague feeling I ought to finish it one day. However the VII off the big ledge is pretty bold and I suspect those final pitches are too so I might need to again find someone better than me to lead the hard bits.

Best wishes
In reply to matt perks:

It's ok Matt, when I did The Fish I had a Calum Muskett with me - I'd be lying if I said that having him on my rack hadn't made a difference to our levels of success
 matt perks 02 Aug 2014
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKC:

Is he widely distributed or only from specialist retailers?
In reply to matt perks:

Hi Matt,

I would expect to see it on the shelves of most independent climbing/mountaineering shops, it's always difficult to say with the multiples - tends to vary from store to store.

Rob
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 02 Aug 2014
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKC:

I think he was referring to 'having a Calum Muskett on his rack',


Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Haha,

That's made my day Chris, must have been tired when I replied to that one!

Knowing Calum's sense of humour it would have to be a very, very specialist retailer...


Rob
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 04 Aug 2014
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKC:

I there I was under the impression that Calum was 'widely distributed'... :P
In reply to James Rushforth:

I do feel a little bad for referring to him as 'it'...
 bigbobbyking 10 Aug 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Have the pre-orders been sent yet?
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 10 Aug 2014
In reply to bigbobbyking:

I got a couple of nice emails on friday from people who had received their copies so I assume so. If you've not got it yet I would imagine tomorrow / tuesday hopefully.

I hope you like it!

James
 superturbo 11 Aug 2014
In reply to UKC Gear: Got mine today - looks great. Well done James!
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 12 Aug 2014
In reply to WillBroad:

Thanks Will, I hope it proves useful!

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