UKH

Hi guys,

Having a bit of a dilemma. Interested in climbing Mera Peak and Baruntse with Adventure Peaks in a combined expedition. I'm planning to go to Everest in 2014 so want to do them as preparation, then supplement them with Scottish Winter experience next Winter. Haven't done any Scottish Winter climbing so far, but climbed Mont Blanc last Summer and I'm a HVS 5a rock climber with lots of Summer hillwalking experience.

Jagged Globe offer an expedition to Putha Hiunchuli to replace Baruntse in their program. The issue is that they don't include Mera Peak like AP, although the expedition is a little cheaper. They run this trip due to Baruntse apparantely becoming unstable and unsafe with a poor success rate, which I've been told by a number of people now.

I can't find much info on Putha Hiunchuli but believe it's a bit easier than Baruntse yet a little higher. Considering it as an option.
Any thoughts?

In reply to Stani49:

I've been on neither, but a few friends have tried and/or summited Baruntse in recent years and I almost went to PuthaH last year (went and did Pik Lenin instead).

The success rate on Baruntse has been very low mainly due to the big crevasse/slot thing very high up on the ridge. It's been there for at least 30 years. The way seems to be down and around to the left, this is what a mate did two years ago, he found it hard, but the only other successes I know of have used several Sherpas to do all that work. Many more have bailed.

There's some good pics and info (in French) on PuthaH at: http://www.paulo-grobel.com/05_expes/Fiches_PDF/FT_cr_putha_hiunchuli.htm
Paulo runs guided trips that do very adventurous things, first and second ascents etc, with great success. I think Amical also guide PuthaH. Post-monsoon seems to be best success rate. There's a couple of smaller peaks near BC for PuthaH that you could maybe climb as well, to 'replace' Mera, and without the crowds.

In reply to Damo:

Good story in that link. Looks like it would be a nice ski??

In reply to Dave:

Apparently, yes: http://www.kobler-partner.ch/details/items/204-putha-hiunchuli.html

It would be more popular but getting there is a bit of a pita, with an irregular flight, or a long trek in behind the Dhaulagiris.

In reply to Stani49: We got stopped at the crevasse on Baruntse but mainly because the slopes above were loaded and the risk too great to circuit the crevasse on to them. I think otherwise it would have been OK.

In reply to Damo:

Thanks. I have the familiar feel of a seed beginning to germinate....