UKH

OK Stupid question here: When buying disc brakes, are the prices quoted on websites for a single brake, or for a set? eg this http://www.wiggle.co.uk/avid-elixir-x0-trail-carbon-disc-brake/

In reply to adsheff: Single. Try and put one in the basket and it will become obvious.

Thanks. Next question

I have some awful Avid BB-5 Mechanical disc brakes on my bike, I want to buy some hydraulics and am looking at around £150 for the pair. ANyone have an opinion on what would be a good buy.

I'm looking for: easy to adjust, both pads move (not one fixed, one move), do not need much meddling with once set up. Not bothered about weight etc. ta!

In reply to adsheff: I think Shimano are the best value

http://www.cyclesportsuk.co.uk/index.php?cPath=318

the SLX or XT look like good value. I think I have the SLX and they are fine.

In reply to adsheff:

I'd go with Shimano. Deore should fit your budget, or spend a bit more and get SLX.

You'll need to check if you need additional adapters to mount on your frame & forks and what max size disks your bike can take (I run 203mm).

Check out Chain Reaction, Wiggle and Merlin for best deals.

In reply to ChrisJD: Thanks, but SLX seem to come in different varieties, eg M675, M665 etc.

In reply to adsheff: You want the M675 that was in the link I posted. M665 is an older model it think.

In reply to adsheff: Price is for one, either front or rear. Usually includes rotors, although not always as my mate recently found out! (those in your link do).

There are some nearly new disc brakes in the classifieds at the moment...

In reply to Martin1978: Good point re roters though I think his Avid rotors would be ok?

In reply to Papillon: Didn't spot that, yeah, I'd think they would be fine.

Only just switched to a front disc myself, went Avid BB7 and am very impressed.

In reply to adsheff:

I'd also get a price off your local bike shop (use them or lose them) - shops often throw in fitting for free.

In reply to adsheff: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=91982

these seem cheap . . . .??

In reply to adsheff:

Well worth looking at: http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k495/sets.html

These are sets (although you may need rotors too.

For that sort of money, you can't go wrong with a set of Shimano SLX - easy to set-up, and plenty of power.

This place seems to be one of the cheapest sites to buy them, but being Germany will take a few days more to arrive, but they get good reviews over on Bike Radar

In reply to sam@work:
I'd go shimano, they require less maintenance. the Avids I have and have had in the past have been a pint in the rear.

In reply to adsheff:

Shimano SLX is a good call. But you could buy a set of Deores for £80 and notice a massive difference over your current set.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=67246&utm_source...

In reply to balmybaldwin:

German-sourced brakes will require a lever swap, obviously - not sure the OP would be fancying that much by the sounds of it.

In reply to MHutch:

That slx set I linked to in germany is left front, right rear (I'm strugling to remember what way round they are on my bike)

You can request they switch they levers for you, and more to the point the hoses will need shortening anyway... it's not much hassle really.

In reply to balmybaldwin:

Didn't know the German shops would switch them for you. Even more attractive to shop with them now.

In reply to adsheff: Always found merlin cycles very competitive on price http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/brakes/disc-brakes/shimano-...

In reply to adsheff:

You can get a pair of XT for that:

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/brakes/disc-brakes/shimano-...

You'll also need the rotors, which will push it slightly over your budget, in which case SLX will be more attractive:

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/brakes/disc-brakes/shimano-...

Good luck.

In reply to adsheff:

I've got the SLX M666. Which have just the same internals as the XT, but look more agricultural and so are a touch cheaper. I'd go with them. The no-tool reach adjustment is pretty nifty and the performance has been pretty damn good on Garburn Pass coming in to Kentmere and down Walna Scar.

In reply to adsheff:

Spend as much money as you can on the best possible brakes, and then try your best not to use them

In reply to brokenbanjo: Yeah having looked at reviews etc I think its the M666 I'll go for. On my current (awful) set, you adjust one pad as close as possible to the disc, that stays in position and the second pad is the only one that moves when pulling the lever. So if it is a fraction out of alignment there is a massive loss in braking force.

Are the SLXs the same or are there two moving pads???

In reply to adsheff:

Both pistons move on hydraulic systems including SLX. It is still important to get the rotor centralised to the caliper.

In reply to LastBoyScout:
>> You'll also need the rotors, which will push it slightly over your budget, in which case SLX will be more attractive:
Luddite thought of the week: the old Richey canti's on my first mountain bike still stop me just as well as my megabucks hydraulic discs, in the dry at least! V brakes? never heard tell of 'em!

In reply to colinakmc: In my limited experience, V brakes were much easier to set up and maintain and more reliable than these Avid BB5 mechanicals, which to be quite frank are a pile of tank.

And with rotors, the bike already has them, surely I can just use these?

In reply to adsheff:

Yes you can. They are simple to fit, you'll be fine, there's loads of videos around if you have any problems.

Ordered a set of Shimano SLX br-m675 which were £72 each from Merlin Cycles. Will let you know how good they are!

For the record, the br-M666 are the same as far as I can tell, just 675 is the new model number for 2013. Why they can't just say M2013, I don't know. No doubt some marketing guru thought 675 was a much more sellable number!

In reply to adsheff:


Generally speaking shimano don't change model numbers unless there's actual changes been made. So if there is a new model no. for the new year it probably means they've done something, even if it's only in the gubbins.