In reply to UKC News: UPDATE 5 JUNE
Members of Skye MRT were able to clear up any obviously loose blocks last Saturday. Many thanks to them from many on UKC I'm sure.
Talking in detail with one member it seems that anything left currently seems solid enough to justify an ascent but caution and delicacy is clearly still crucial. In particular there are 2 large flakes that may seem suitable for laybacking but the leverage involved would not be a good idea. Removing these clearly was not deemed suitable/possible but weathering effects of rain, wind and freeze may change this over the coming seasons. As a result I have added more caution to the description.
Cìoch Direct 150m Severe * (1907)
This classic line has a number of areas of loose rock that must be treated with extreme caution. It follows the obvious main fault splitting the Lower Buttress starting at the bottom left edge of the face.
1. 25m Climb the open chimney-gully which is often damp in the back.
2. 40m Follow a long easy groove then two chimneys to a large sloping ledge at
the base of an overhanging chimney. Try to avoid belaying immediately below.
3. 20m There is particularly loose rock at the start of this pitch. The tight chimney gives an awkward crux which is best climbed without a
rucsac. Continue up the cracks above until just below a small overhung nose.
4. 35m Follow a sloping shelf up and left passing a jumble of boulders (care; the
protruding Yardarm fell off in 2000) and a slab to twin cracks.
5. 30m Climb the twin cracks then easy climbing to the Terrace.
Full details of belaying out of the line would have been too wordy but apparently there is a single old peg on the left and more natural gear a further few feet left again.
Following May's fatal rockfall accident on Cioch Direct, Sron na Ciche, the route remains in an unstable state. Skye Mountain Rescue Team are recommending that climbers stay away until the affected area can be stabilised.
