The Senior GB Climbing Team

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 Team BMC 05 Oct 2010
There will be a short meeting of 45minutes to 1 hour maximum after the Senior BLCC Final in Ratho this weekend - Sunday 10th October to discuss the future and possible ways forward for the Senior GB Climbing Team.

Anyone competing or attending the BLCC’s is welcome to put in their views and opinions and we would especially like to hear from Juniors about to step up to Seniors and climbers interested in competing for Team GB.

Ian Dunn GB Team Manager will chair the meeting.

If you can not attend the competition or the meeting and would like to have a view please add them to this thread and I will take them to the meeting.

Rob Adie - BMC Competitions Officer
 Morgan Woods 06 Oct 2010
In reply to Team BMC: Why the need for a way forward? In the comp world isn't it about competing and winning your fair share?
 4291 06 Oct 2010
In reply to Morgan Woods:

I would guess this could be translated to mean:

"We at the BMC wish that GB had some decent lead comp competitor, but have no idea what to do about it, please help us!"
 Ramon Marin 06 Oct 2010
In reply to Mr Plow:

I think it translates as: "What happens to all these amazing young competitors when they go senior? They all disappear into oblivion" The answer is that competing doesn't pay in UK and it's unsustainable due lack of interest and support. You get way more coverage for pre-practised ascent of an E8 than if you win a world comp.
silverstone 06 Oct 2010
In reply to ramon marin martinez: Agree. Most youngsters have the 'Bank of Mum and Dad' to fund their travel and accommodation if they get the opportunity to compete internationally. Not so the seniors. We have some great senior climbers they just can't afford the costs of competing around the world.
 Quarryboy 06 Oct 2010
In reply to silverstone:

Agreed if I had the funds to constantly travel round the world climbing I would rather go climb impressive cliffs that bits of plywood.
banned profile 74 06 Oct 2010
In reply to Quarryboy: the problem in this country is we dont have the amount of long steep climbing walls and cliffs that they have abroad plus as someone stated,competition climbing in this country doesnt pay!look at how much footballers get paid compared to track and field stars then theres a huge step down to climbers.how many people in this country make a GOOD living from just climbing(not including owning climbign walls/climbing companies)?its all well and good wanting to be the best but that doesnt pay your expenses
 Ramon Marin 07 Oct 2010
In reply to beastofackworth:

It's all down to exposure.

People in UK don't care about lead comps = No exposure = No sponsors interested

But the majority of pro climbers that make a living of it is by a combination of sponsorship, route setting, lectures, coaching, writing articles... But don't get any of that work before being exposed to the world by the media.

Despite that, it's very encouraging seeing the british young climbers cranking, competing and wining. I think the BMC has done a good job with them. It's not their entire fault that British public don't like lead comps. MInd you, the recently found success in the bouldering comps could help.
Alan Cameron 09 Oct 2010
In reply to ramon marin martinez:
> (In reply to beastofackworth)
>
> It's all down to exposure.
>
> People in UK don't care about lead comps = No exposure = No sponsors interested
>
> But the majority of pro climbers that make a living of it is by a combination of sponsorship, route setting, lectures, coaching, writing articles... But don't get any of that work before being exposed to the world by the media.
>
> Despite that, it's very encouraging seeing the british young climbers cranking, competing and wining. I think the BMC has done a good job with them. It's not their entire fault that British public don't like lead comps. MInd you, the recently found success in the bouldering comps could help.

The BMC has done a good job????? You are joking aren't you? The BMC pays lip service to competition climbers. The competitions they organise are irregular, not calendered and far far too few in number. The judging, particularly at junior level leaves much to desired. There is a new generation of 'climbers' who climb on indoor walls. You can love them or hate them but you can't ignore them. The numbers are increasing and it has nothing to with the BMC. The BMC is locked into wooly socks and cord trousers. The whole philosophy and ethos of the organisation needs a review and a kick up the back side and dragged into the 21st century. Do not misunderstand my stand point. I believe that there is room all aspects of our sport within the remit of the BMC. I'm not against mountaineering ice, rock climbing whatever. What I am saying is that budgets should be set prior to the start of the financial year so that each facet of the sport knows where the money is going. For example those who qualify for the leading or bouldering National Team should know that they are going to be subsidised for a specific sum each year. Why should they have to pay out of there own pockets? They are already losing money getting time off work. There comes a time when they just can't afford to compete. The latest Asgard Expedition? How much did that cost? How much did the those participating put in out of there own pockets? How much did the BMC put in?
This is an example by the way not a witch hunt!
As for media exposure where were the reports and pictures of the leading ladder and the Briycs? These are BMC comps and they can't be bothered to report them in SUMMIT!!!! let alone the slots they have in National Mags.
What the BMC needs is a REVOLUTION, not evolution.
 Lurkio 10 Oct 2010
In reply to camshron:

Wow! Have you been in the pub? That's quite a rant, and one that requires a response, so I'll get the ball rolling.

Firstly, such a tirade suggests you have an axe to grind, so it is unfortunate that you have chosen to remain anonymous.

Secondly, a lot of what you say is utter rubbish, as well as offensive to those within the BMC and outside it, who work hard to further the cause of British competition climbing.

I'm certainly not saying that everything is perfect, hence the calling of the meeting, but unfortunately your suggestion of a simple revolution is not very constructive.

Perhaps others will be along to further dissect your somewhat incoherent diatribe, but that's all I'm saying for now.

Cheers,

Tim Waterhouse
(Parent of Junior GB Climbing Team member, competition volunteer and supporter)
 Slaney 11 Oct 2010
In reply to Team BMC:

Sounds like there is going to be a few empty chairs Mr BMC !!!

PS I'm still waiting for you lot to change my email address ( only been waiting 6 months now )
silverstone 11 Oct 2010
In reply to camshron:

> The judging, particularly at junior level leaves much to desired.

I can't comment on your personal experience but I have always found judging at comps to be carried out fairly. Unlike many sports there are no official qualifications that judges can take and there are variations in the national and international rules that can lead to confusion amongst competitors and spectators. Some of the judging is objective, but if it is consistent then there should be no arguments.

Yes the competition scene is frustrating at times, but don't just sit back and complain, step up and get involved.

> As for media exposure where were the reports and pictures of the leading ladder and the Briycs? These are BMC comps and they can't be bothered to report them in SUMMIT!!!! let alone the slots they have in National Mags.

Submit your own articles on competitions. A spectator/participant view often captures the feel of an event better than a results report as this report on the Worlds demonstrates http://www.journal-online.co.uk/article/6930-dizzy-new-heights

BBC Scotland's The Adventure Show were filming at the Worlds and when the progamme is shown next month it will hopefully raise the profile of competition climbing even further.
Alan Cameron 13 Oct 2010
In reply to Lurkio:
Actually I don't go to pubs and I would class my self as a non drinker. What I would say is that my comments are objective, not subjective and I have no axe to grind other than to get the BMC to sort it's act out.
Go back in time and note how competitions organised by the Governing Body(sic) have become fewer and fewer. Indeed I believe that there is only a single competition for bouldering and leading now. The leading copmpetition was at Ratho at the weekend I believe. The number of entrants was pretty low in both female and male events: some would say lamentably low. Last weekend there was a bouldering comp. in Manchester and when that was over at least one top climber drove to Ratho to compete. This is how we treat top athletes in the climbing world of the U.K. ? Coordination between climbing comps at private walls and the BMC is NOT beyond the wit of man is it? We have Email for god's sake!

You say 'a lot of what you say is utter rubbish' that is a general statement. It would be helpful if you itemise precisely what is rubbish so that the points can be dicussed by others and hopefully allow me to respond. By saying that everything is not perfect is, I assume, agreeing with at the very least some of what I say. This is confusing the issue.

If you could address some of the issues raised objectively then we may progress. Incoherent diatribe indeed! It got you going!
Alan Cameron 13 Oct 2010
In reply to Slaney:
Brief and to the point! Nice one.
Alan Cameron 13 Oct 2010
In reply to silverstone:
Thanks for your reply. Firstly I agree with your overall view of competitions. They can be frustrating, and they can be hard work for both spectators and competitors alike. They can be stimulating and absorbing like all competitve sport. I enjoy watching them, but don't like competing.

I am sure that there is a judging qualification. I know of 3 people who have it. This is to conform with European Competitions I believe. I do not know if the BMC run courses for the qualification. If they don't then they certainly should. Through the MLT they have courses for mountaieering so why not competition judging? If there were more judges then perhaps the 'judging' would be objective. It's only a point I'm not having a pop at you.

Getting column space for an individual off the street is nigh on impossible. The BMC have column space in national magazines and their own magazine. They should, I believe, use it in print and in picture to promote the youth of today to help create a healthy future for all aspects of our sport.

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