UKC

NEWS: Piolets d'Or Winners Announced

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 UKC News 14 Apr 2010
[Bruce Normand from Scotland and Americans Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster, 3 kb]

Scottish climber amongst the five winners:

The 18th Piolets d'Or event was held in Chamonix and Courmayeur from the 7th to the 10th of April.

Bruce Normand from Scotland and Americans Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster won an award...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52893

 IanMulvany 14 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Wow, great achievement. I remeber bumping into Bruce a few years ago in Joshua tree after having just met him at a Physics conference. He's a really nice guy, congratulations to him!
Ackbar 14 Apr 2010
In reply to UKC News: Congrats to the winners.....

Piolets d'Or are a "celebration of ethical alpinism"......award goes to Reinhold Messner???? (contradiction perhaps?). Guess depends on your definition of ethical.
 Tyler 14 Apr 2010
In reply to Ackbar:

What do you mean? He was one f the main movers behind oxygenless ascents of 8000 meter peaks and has continually espoused alpine style ethic for ascents in the greater ranges. Why do you suggest he's not ethical?
 Big Sender 14 Apr 2010
In reply to col-0ut-there: Depends though... what if the rumours are true? He should surely have his piolet taken away.


-BS
 john mc c 14 Apr 2010
In reply to col-0ut-there:
Ta.
And well done to Bruce. Which is what this was all about in the first place!
Love to see a nobody ( sorry at least for me - in the media thing ) get obviously a great route and also nice award.
Good Stuff.
Ackbar 15 Apr 2010
In reply to blunt pick: Look, if you make a film which delibrately casts your fellow climbers as useless villans, then your ethics are questionable. That's the evidence that I'm refering to. No need to be so harsh. If there is a reward for ethics then the personal ethics of those involved should be included not just the technical ethics.
 beardy mike 15 Apr 2010
In reply to Ackbar: And the same ethics applied to him by his expedition partners, slating is name for the past few decades, those shouldn't be considered? I think there is a hell of a lot more than meets the eye here. At the end of the day Messner's career has amongst them some of the greatest ascents made by any man alive - things like the Messner route on the south face of the marmolada, completed onsight and solo, which is still a massive classic today. Yes these are technical ethics, but Messner has continually tried to protect the alps from bolts, and climbed in the best style possible. That he has a commecrialistic streak in him, is that so bad? It's made his career possible, and he has at times received alot of bad press, often through no fault of his own. I've not seen the latest film but I'm sure it's no worse than anything produced by his detractors...
 Doug 15 Apr 2010
In reply to Ackbar:
> (In reply to blunt pick) Look, if you make a film which delibrately casts your fellow climbers as useless villans, then your ethics are questionable.

I don't think Messner made the film
 Mick Ward 15 Apr 2010
In reply to mike kann:

> (In reply to Ackbar) At the end of the day Messner's career has amongst them some of the greatest ascents made by any man alive...

Absolutely.

Mick


Removed User 15 Apr 2010
In reply to Ackbar: It's not the Nobel Peace Prize is it?
In reply to blunt pick:
> (In reply to col-0ut-there)
> Ta.
> And well done to Bruce. Which is what this was all about in the first place!
> Love to see a nobody ( sorry at least for me - in the media thing ) get obviously a great route and also nice award.

Bruce may be unknown by the general public, but it's the complete opposite of a nobody! Very nice and intelligent guy (he's a physics researcher in China), and a true rarity - a Brit who speaks fluently in another language (French, in this case). It was great to see him, Kyle and Jed getting the prize (even if I strongly believe this year every team deserved it - I'm happy I will never be in the jury!!!)


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