UKC

In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic - thanks Phil.

In reply to UKC News:

Great stuff, rolling back the years!


Chris

In reply to UKC News: just had a quick look through a few pages and was heartened to find that the pro/anti bolting thing was going on as far back as the mid eighties, and people on UKC seem to think they are a the cutting edge.

In reply to gethin_allen:

The bolting argument pre-dates the 80's and yes it still rages today. Most UKC readers of an age know that, and those that don't are usually educated about it.

In reply to gethin_allen:

It's been on the hob since the first bolts were placed. Usually it bubbles away on a back burner but sometimes it spills over. It'll never be done.

Another, recently discovered Peak book documents 'clean' ascents of routes in the area - ie done chalkless. This isn't quite as big an issue as it was in the late 70's! This book will be online within a fortnight so you can read it online.

On another subject, another book I've been given is Steve Bancroft's personal new route journal, which should be online by the end of next week.

Phil

In reply to phil kelly:
Well done for all this hard work Phil. Your place in climbing heaven is now reserved, but take your time....

In reply to UKC News:
Very cool, cheers for this.

In reply to Jon Read:

Thanks Jon!

I'd just like to say though that a few other people have been involved with this project, and they deserve a special mention: Graham Hoey, the guys at the Outside in Hathersage, Ian Lonsdale and Brian Cropper (look out for their material over the next couple of months), Geoff Milburn and Steve Bancroft.

Thanks one and all.

Phil

In reply to phil kelly:

http://benssimpleblog.wordpress.com/2010/02/25/the-archivist/

Thanks again Phil

In reply to Derbyshire Ben: Has anyone else been unable to register? I've submitted my details, but I haven't received an activation email.

In reply to John2:

Yes I did and had no problem.

In reply to John2:

Hi John - I've activated your account. NOt sure why it failed. The site had a good couple of hundred new accounts yesterday.

Phil

In reply to UKC News: Really interesting. Would be nice to see other new route books (e.g. Lundy) on this site. Out of interest, do people still record new ascents in new route books now that the internet is so commonly used?

In reply to phil kelly: Thanks Phil, it's fine now.

In reply to Ackbar:

Agreed, I think it would be an interesting exercise to centralise all the books in one location for research and easy reference - that's the general idea anyway.


There most certainly are books out there, but yes, a lot of areas have a diverse internet-based facility. The problem I see there is that there's a total lack of co-ordination and (dare I say it) regulation.

It's not beyond the wit of man to sort the problem but I suspect vested interests and politics would cloud the process.

Phil

In reply to phil kelly:

Beware of the vested interest, the politics and the hidden agenda!

In reply to phil kelly:
Fantastic effort, will look forward to browsing through the site when I have more time

In reply to phil kelly:

Phil, why are you asking people to register to view the books?

In reply to murdster:

Is this *really* a problem to you?

After spending 4 months working on this project so far, and with a large workload ahead, it's a bit disappointing to have this as a complaint.

Phil

In reply to UKC News:

A small update: After a whole raft of missed connections I've finally managed to agree with Pete's Eats that their whole archive (which is huge!) can become a part of the RockArchivist project and site.

This will start just as soon as the P2 is out of the way.

Phil

In reply to phil kelly:


But predictable Phil and yes it is a problem. It's a barrier to access for some.

In reply to phil kelly:


amazing.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Surely it's a personal choice, not a barrier.

We can review this over time.

In reply to UKC News:


This is great stuff to see all the comments over the years. Glad to be in there in the 90's!

Si

In reply to UKC News:

Fine effort Phil.

I look forward to having a proper look when at home.

I find the history of climbing fascinating, and think it gives the climbs I can do, and those I can't, a greater depth and interest.

Thanks for your hard work,

Lex

In reply to UKC News: Excellent work. I remember the Stoney book so well, and can recall seeing the Rooster Booster and Tequila Mockingbird entries within days of them first being scrawled in there. The book was just as scruffy then!
On a wet day in Stoney we'd read "Crags", and perhaps "Mountain" (usually just the bit we could get through before being asked to return the copy to the counter). Then the New Route book would provide some free entertainment (and wonder) for a few minutes.
Then it would be back to gazing glumly through the window at the passing quarry trucks shooshing by outside, until giving up and setting off for Pleasley Vale for some dry bouldering.

Steve Bancroft showed us a hugely exciting (not) game played on the cafe tables called "isolated triangles", but sometimes the new route book was as good as the day got...

Excellent idea, UK climbing history deserves these documentt being preserved as part of our heritage.

In reply to UKC News: I like how he crosses out the E7, which is the actual grade and what must have felt like to him, and writes something lower.

In reply to phil kelly:

I feel guilty taking those books now! How weird that a slowing in contracts can kick start something wonderful like this.

I don't see Mick's oft raised concern about vested interests being much of an issue here, as the history is far too important. I suspect even most individual collectors will be swayed to help out.

In reply to duzinga:

I strongly suspect it wasn't JW who crossed out and altered the grade. More likely someone who had an opinion but hadn't done the route. The books were full of macho bullshirt!

Chris

In reply to UKC News: This is great stuff, thanks Phil. I recall seeing these books way back but I can't for the life of me remember if we ever added any entries despite freeing a number of previously aided routes. We had suffered a few put downs which put us off going public. I suddenly feel very old.

Al

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Was it you Chris?

Sorry I couldn't resist ; o )

In reply to Chris Craggs:

I'm going to stick my neck out here and suggest this was Jerry, sometime later, but before the book was removed from the cafe.

It certainly wasn't written by anybody that had done an ascent because the change was made when the book was 'live' in the cafe, and at that time, Johnny and Mark hadn't repeated it.

I suspect it was Jerry, in his "there are no 6c's" phase, though I could be wrong.

Phil

In reply to Offwidth:

It's OK, I think the books went to the best possible place, and hey, it got them out of my way. Having said that though this whole project has shown a huge opening, and I might just be back in touch for some help real soon.


Let's hope so. It's important to get it all done and recorded. My only wish would be to do it properly, plan it properly and centralise it. OK, so maybe 3 wishes, but common sense!

Phil

In reply to Offwidth:


Exactly. Because there are no agendas and vested interests, just a passion for climbing history that is free to all to view.

More power to Phil and those who help.

In reply to phil kelly: My favourite around this time was when Quentin put up 'Kingfisher' ....on Ravensdale? Some wag (think it was Jerry) crossed the name out in the Stoney new route book and re-named it 'QueenQuent'.

In reply to UKC News: Big thank you to Phil and everyone else involved! Totally brilliant effort. You do past, present and future climbers a huge service by preserving these records before their coffee stained pages rotted to illegibility.

In reply to Lincoln Climber:

Wasn't Kingfisher at Rubicon? Wasn't it the one that needed 2 belayers?

What was the one he had as a cover photo on High? Piranha?

In reply to Boy:

Or for the next batch - beer-stained.

In reply to phil kelly:

Yes



No, that was Kingfisher. I think it was my photo...

Neil

In reply to phil kelly:



Phil, whilst I think the project is a great idea, I don't appreciate your implied sarcasm or whatever you're suggesting in your reply.

You're disappointed to have this as a 'complaint'?
I was only asking WHY you're asking people to register. No need to go off on one.

In reply to murdster:

Perhaps if you want to have a contructive discussion you could let me know your real name or post some kind of profile. Contact me directly if you want to, but there's really no need for all these negative vibes on UKC.

Phil

In reply to phil kelly: any chance you'll extent the scope & cover the Scottish new routes books ? I'd love to see some of the books from Tiso's again

But understand if you think this is for someone else

In reply to Doug:

It would be brilliant if we could delve into Tiso's and Nevisport's archives and publish them - if there's anybody out there with the contacts then I'd love to start the process.

One of the problems is that (for all the right reasons) it's not sensible to post the books around, and so it may be better to have a 'local correspondent' who gathers the books and scans them.


No, I think we should make the resource as comprehensive as possible! Having all this sort of thing in one place would be the sensible approach.

Phil

In reply to UKC News:

Tremadog 1984 now online

Phil

In reply to phil kelly:

Well done Phil. Are you sure it's Bremen... looks more like Bremex?

In reply to jon:

Ah, you might be right. It's been a long day!

Phil

In reply to phil kelly:

"Surely it's a personal choice, not a barrier"

It's a barrier.
Why are you asking people to register?

In reply to murdster:

I would refer you to Phil's comment:

'Perhaps if you want to have a contructive discussion you could let me know your real name or post some kind of profile. Contact me directly if you want to...'

Have you done as he suggested?

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

No, I don't think he has!

Phil