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NEWS: Council Fund New Sport Crag - Local Shops Buy Route Names

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 UKC News 09 Jul 2009
[Castleberg Crag, Settle, 3 kb]Yorkshire Limestone Sport Crag Paid For By Settle Town Council:

Castlebergh Crag above the North Yorkshire town of Settle has been made safe and to be opened as a climbing venue in a unique collaboration between climbers, the council and local businesses.

The local council have funded the development of a sport cliff with local shops buying route names.



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48230
 Michael Ryan 09 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Anyone else remember Bill Birkett naming a route , Asolo, after one of his sponsors many moons ago.

Which crag was it at?

Lakes I know that.

Mick
 John2 09 Jul 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: There's a route called Quip U for Leisure at Avon, named after a now defunct climbing shop.
 David Lanceley 09 Jul 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Dove
 Morgan Woods 09 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

23. Settle Injuries Clinic 7m F5+ *

i might avoid that one.
 Jack Geldard 09 Jul 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: I thought the same thing!

Jack
 lithos 09 Jul 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

it's fine, steep and short but on ok rock
James Jackson 09 Jul 2009
In reply to John2:

... Next to "Whip U for Pleasure"
James Jackson 09 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

It is great that a council has had the foresight to do this, well done them and all involved!
Removed User 09 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

So in future will anyone be able to place extra bolts on the crag for new routes or will the council only be allowing those they have authorised to do so?

Just wondering about the small print.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 09 Jul 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

And it was called Asolo wasn't it - after his boots?


Chris
 Duncan Bourne 10 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Will we have new routes like "Tesco Direct"?
 Chris F 10 Jul 2009
In reply to Duncan Bourne: Or Direct Line?
 Al Evans 10 Jul 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Asolo, a three star E3 on Dove Crag, 5c,6a,5c.
 Dave Musgrove 10 Jul 2009
In reply to Duncan Bourne:

We were just disappointed that 'The Lingerie Shop' didn't chip in. We could have had a bit of fun with the description to that one!

Dave
 Chris F 10 Jul 2009
In reply to Dave Musgrove: I named a boulder problem cornerstone.org after a local charity. They didn't have to pay for equipping though
 Dave Musgrove 10 Jul 2009
In reply to Chris F:

No one had to pay anything, the donations were volunteered. The council and traders offered to help and see it as a form of cheap advertising - they benefit. I saw it as an opportunity to boost the coffers of the bolt fund - we as climbers benefit.

It's a one off situation - unless you know of any other totally virgin crags above a town centre that we've overlooked?

Dave
 jon 10 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Great idea, well done to everyone involved. Hope the local undertaker doesn't want to chip in...
 Simon Caldwell 10 Jul 2009
In reply to Dave Musgrove:
> It's a one off situation - unless you know of any other totally virgin crags above a town centre that we've overlooked?

What about that crag in Knaresborough...
 gabriel_m 10 Jul 2009
Hope this remains a curiosity and doesn't develope into the rather sad corporate renaming of stadiums and arenas à la Emirates, JJB, Reebok, O2, etc.
In reply to Toreador:

That'll be the one with Tate Gallery on it, I wonder if The Tate paid the Barley brothers to name it?

There is also a Police notice, "NO CLIMBING". However this is on a road sign which is Not round but square, white back ground and black border. Therefore only a recommendation and not enforceable.
 Chris F 10 Jul 2009
In reply to Dave Musgrove: OK, they didn't pay, they volunteered a monetary donation in exchange for advertising in perpetuity. I see the difference :0
 Richard Hall 11 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News: Why are there no routes over the overlap at the left side of the crag?
 Paz 12 Jul 2009
In reply to John2:

Quip U for leisure is now the shitest f*cking horror show I've ever had the misfortune to climb at Avon. Not only that, it's gonna kill someone. As you well know, that's saying something, but I'd prefer to be murdered by someone who tells me they're gonna do it, and then does it (naturally, after I've tried reason at length, and they still feel we have to agree to disagree, but that the only satisfactory conclusion for them is the immediate death of one of us), much more so rather than be manslaughtered due to incompetence.

You're right to point it out as a `counter example' under the assumption of "it's in a climber's club guidebook with a name and a grade and a first attempt even though they cheated like hell, so it's worthy of consideration". If you'd actually done it you'd know it is worthy of one thing from any reasonable competent person - pure unbridled contempt. And a massive health warning.

From this poor example of shit pegs, I unjustifably deduce that any corporate interference with the placing of fixed gear is totally bad for the sport, even when done much better as in this case, albeit on a totally crap non crag. The purveyors of the original phrase didn't anticipate cases where the actual antagonists of it were soft and mushy, and scrapable and ignorable, rather than hard and strong, worthy of being at the tip of a forefront of something, anything, (albeit a wedge of crap). It's still the thin end of the wedge even it it's crap.

The French have used corporate and or council sponsored bolting for years, even in the guise of mountain guides. The French have numerous world class crags that were bolted at the initiative of local climbers working independently of any sponsorship. The French also have such an unimaginably large heap of bolted crap, it's suddenly understandble why they don't bother to star anything and everyone works on rumour and what the mags and their mates think instead, and even why Alain Robert gave up and started to climb bulidings. And that's now all they know. It's as if in the medieval period of art, they ran out of canvasses and culture there never progressed further.

Now I have ambitions for England, even in its far reaches such as Settle. Maybe it's my naivety speaking when I say when, like resentfulness and smugness, maybe we can learn from France's mistakes, and like developing world class crags properly, fresh bread that's worthwhile, pastry, nuclear power and a welfare state that works, maybe we can learn from the best of them.
Yorkspud 13 Jul 2009
In reply to Paz:

maybe we can learn from France's mistakes, and like developing world class crags properly,

Like Castleberg?
 Babika 19 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:
I was snooty about the corporate bit as well until I actually read the route names.....

They're all pretty normal (The Bike Shop, Ye Olde Naked Man - really??) and have a certain English eccentricity to them.

So hats off to everyone who worked hard on this and have a look before you condemn out of hand.

Rosi

Nicki Prince 22 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

As one of the local businesses sponsoring a route of Castleberg Crag we are proud to be associated with this project and believe it is of great benefit to the local community. Thanks to the BMC, local climbers and the council who have worked so hard to develop the crag as a climbing venue.

Nicki
www.cave-crag.co.uk
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 22 Jul 2009
In reply to Dave Musgrove:

Not quite the same but that big (huge) sheet of rock above Peak Cavern entrance could do with a bit of sponsored bolting!

Chris
 winhill 22 Jul 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to Dave Musgrove)
>
> Not quite the same but that big (huge) sheet of rock above Peak Cavern entrance could do with a bit of sponsored bolting!
>
> Chris

Devil's Arse?

Who is going to sponsor routes with names like Satan's Skidmarks, Stygian Klingons and Demonic Dangleberries?
Nicki Prince 22 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

As one of the local businesses sponsoring a route of Castleberg Crag we are proud to be associated with this project and believe it is of great benefit to the local community. Thanks to the BMC, local climbers and the council who have worked so hard to develop the crag as a climbing venue.

Nicki
http://www.cave-crag.co.uk
 Michael Ryan 22 Jul 2009
In reply to Nicki Prince:

The collection of sport climbing crags accessed by the A65 from Settle north: Foredale, Norber Scar, Robin Proctors, Trow Ghyll, Panorama, Castleburgh, Gigg South and North....I'm sure I've missed some.....

make up a great climbing destination area for those after mid-grade sport routes....

M
 Fraser 23 Jul 2009
In reply to Nicki Prince:

Your link doesn't work....
Nicki Prince 23 Jul 2009
In reply to Fraser:

Yeah sorry about that - the first one doesn't but the second one does :0)

Nicki
Nicki Prince 23 Jul 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Yes we are very lucky to have all these great crags on our doorstep! There is also Attermire Scar made up of mostly trad routes with a few sport climbs thrown in.

Nicki
http://www.cave-crag.co.uk

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