UKC

NEWS: BMC International Winter Meet Report

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 UKC News 03 Mar 2009
[Stu McAleese and Luka Lindic wet but happy, 2 kb]The Scottish Winter International meet went with a splosh. It was wet. And warm. However, the troops went out everyday, finding some climbable conditions and generally having a great time.

Team Petzl nipped over from France to shoot a film featuring Ueli Steck, American Super-Alpinists teamed up with Ian Parnell and went... (wait for it)... rock climbing at Dunkeld! (They did get some winter routes done too). Slovenian mixed masters tore it up at Newtyle dry tooling quarry, Japanese Giri Giri boys came, saw and described Scotland as “WET”. Everyone got well and truly drunk too. Especially the Czechs.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=46281

 Ian Parnell 03 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News: There's some pics over on my blog, including ones of actual winter conditions - honest! A good week and great reflection on the generous spirits of climbers world wide as it would have been easy for the visitors to throw their toys out the pram when they saw what we were asking them to walk 5 hours a day for.

By the way who did the Secret and Sioux Wall - was that the Petzl crew on Friday? Or did some of the guests hang around for Sunday when winter was due to return?
 Ian Parnell 03 Mar 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell: OK found out about it, Ueli up to his tricks report here http://ueli-steck.petzlteam.com//index.php/post/2009/03/02/Scottish-Ice-Tri...

Some nice comments, glad he got at least one good day.
 Jack Geldard 03 Mar 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell: Nice link Ian.

Luka and Stu McAleese did Sioux Wall that same day.

Jack
 Grahame N 03 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:
A small point of order.
The dry tooling is at Newtyle Quarry, not Birnham Quarry!

Birnam Quarry is the slate quarry on the other side of the River Tay, where by the way a new crag has recently been created (a 25m high slab) since material was removed for the new Ballinluig road junction.
 sgl 03 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News: What Ueli doesn't say is that it took him about half an hour to lead the main pitch on the secret, impressive stuff.
 Astral Highway 03 Mar 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Sioux Wall has only had a handful of repeats, hasn't it, since Ian P.'s first ascent? Impressive achievement from Stu McAleese and partner.
 Ian Parnell 03 Mar 2009
In reply to Astral Highway: Yes good tick by Stu and Luka. I think Sioux wall has had at least 5 repeats (probably more) with some talk of being soft for the grade !

With good gear, good hooks and coming into condition often i.e. not turf reliant, its a route that ought to be on the radars of quite a few winter warriors.
 Jack Geldard 03 Mar 2009
In reply to Grahame N: Oh - okay thanks Grahame.

Now updated.

Jack
Pezz 04 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News: During the newtyle quarry experience, did anyone by chance repeat my route. Torchlite D12+. Between Good Training and F&F? Would be useful to know. Malcolm
 francoisecall 05 Mar 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell: Which makes me even more sad not to have been accepted by the BMC!

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