GEAR REVIEW/VIDEO: DMM Offsets by TobyA

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 Michael Ryan 24 Jun 2008
DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. Toby Archer, a big fan of the old HB Offsets, goes out cragging and takes them through their paces.

He finds them lacking in one department.

Then DMM responds with a slight change in design.

Read the review: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1066
 climbingpixie 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Great review Toby. They sound fantastic, I'm already imagining them as part of my rack. Good to see DMM taking feedback so seriously too and addressing the problem of head movement.
 Jon Griffith 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Wont the holes just widen though after repeated use? I can see it working at first but surely repeated movement of the offset up and down the wire will just make the loose again eventually?
 galpinos 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

So, are the ones in the shops of the small or large hole variety?
 TobyA 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Jon Griffith:
> Wont the holes just widen though after repeated use? I can see it working at first but surely repeated movement of the offset up and down the wire will just make the loose again eventually?

Doesn't seem to happen on any other nuts - my wallnuts for example. As you can see in the video I was really trying to push the wallnut down the wire and couldn't do it! Pathetic hand strength to be sure!
 TobyA 24 Jun 2008
In reply to galpinos:

> So, are the ones in the shops of the small or large hole variety?

Presumably they are the same as the ones I had to test. The slippage is very obvious so you just need to pick one up and try.
rich 24 Jun 2008
In reply to TobyA: about what date did you submit the review Toby?
 Aly 24 Jun 2008
In reply to TobyA: That's a shame as the HB alloys were, without doubt, the best nuts you could buy. Let's hope the alteration by DMM fixes the problem.
 TobyA 24 Jun 2008
In reply to rich: Maybe a month ago tops.
rich 24 Jun 2008
In reply to TobyA: ta
 PontiusPirate 24 Jun 2008
In reply to climbingpixie:

> I'm already imagining them as part of my rack

That'll be your Christmas present then...?!

PP.

F@bien 26 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Great review and nice info on the usefulness of off-set nuts. Would you guys consider the DMM peenuts to be "small" off-sets? They seem to have a slightly off-set shape.

Cheers,

Fabien
 TonyB 26 Jun 2008
In reply to Simon Marsh at DMM:

I'm curious what you mean by " A permanent solution is to araldite the head into place, although this reduces the versatility of the nut. "

When you say "reduces versatility", do you just mean that you couldn't then slide the nut down the wire to place over a bolt stub? At the moment the slippage is so prominent that I would be concerned using one of the offsets in this way (I haven't seen the version with the smaller holes). I would be afraid that the wire would lift off the bolt. When I look at Toby's video then I think that this is a real possibility as the gap between the nut and the end of the loop is huge. If this is the only loss in versatility then I'd feel pretty comfortable reaching for the araldite.

Chris Tan Ver. L - Lost in Time 26 Jun 2008
In reply to TobyA:

Strangely enough, my mate got some WC ( non-coloured) rocks for X'mas and they slide up the wire as well.

Aren't WC nuts also made by DMM?
 WestslopeColo 26 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I got my offsets as soon as I could, and noticed the same slipping problem. I have since used JB Weld to keep the nuts up. Works like a charm now. Yes, that means I can't slip the heads down, but I don't carry just the offsets, plus, how often do you really ever need to? In 15+ years of climbing, I can think of once.
Jon
 Steve Parker 26 Jun 2008
In reply to WestslopeColo:
> Yes, that means I can't slip the heads down, but I don't carry just the offsets, plus, how often do you really ever need to? In 15+ years of climbing, I can think of once.

Very occasionally you can use a wire with the head slid out of the way as a stiff thread where you can't get a sling through. Pretty rare, though, I agree. Only route I can think of offhand where one of these is useful is Halcyon Daze at Brimham.

 TobyA 26 Jun 2008
In reply to WestslopeColo:
> plus, how often do you really ever need to? In 15+ years of climbing, I can think of once.

I was trying to think of the same, and I don't think I've ever had to do it. The only time I've had to slide heads down is when you do that thing of feeding one wire through the other so you can place it well above your head - sort of cheating. Anyway - like you say I've always got other nuts with me. I'm gonna find some serious glue!

 John2 26 Jun 2008
In reply to TobyA: Limbo, Avon Gorge, has the end of a very large bolt (placed by a council workman with deplorable ethics, as the guide used to say) protruding from the rock. It is normal to put the end of a wire over this. But I agree, an unusual situation.
 John Brayshaw 27 Jun 2008
In reply to FabienenCordoba: I've got a full set of alloy (heads came ready glued) and brass Offsets, at least I did until the brass No. 4 made it's way into the sea so I replaced it with a Peenut, as that was the closest shape I could find. Being alloy, it won't mould to the rock under a heavy load, but the curve at the bottom of the "inner" end is useful in helping it to seat properly. By way of recommendation, I bought my partner a set of Peenuts for Christmas (forget the diamonds and gold, my girl's into alloy and brass), and they've proved effective on limestone, granite and grit. It's great to see that DMM have taken on production of the alloy Offsets because they really do fit where other gear won't, and I don't need to worry about what to buy my girl this Christmas either
 JimmAwelon 27 Jun 2008
In reply to FabienenCordoba: Yes the Peenut is an offset nut.

Similar to what AJohnB said - I have an HB set of these nuts and the brass 6 is almost exactly the same to look at dimension wise as the largest DMM Peenut (which I also have a set of).

I have not experienced the brass/alloy material difference that he speaks of but I have not heavily loaded either the brass or alloy nuts.

I of course dont know if DMM will venture into the brass 1-6 offset since their alloy Peenuts exist but for anyone with a set of 7-11 alloy offsets then Peenuts come highly recommended as a compliment.
 TobyA 27 Jun 2008
In reply to JimmAwelon:

> I of course dont know if DMM will venture into the brass 1-6 offset

I think they have plans to do so if I remember correctly from what Simon Marsh has said either here on in an email to me.
F@bien 28 Jun 2008
In reply to AJohnB & JimmAwelon:
Thanks for your feedback on the peenuts. I guess now I also know what I'd like for Christmas!

Fabien
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

That's some major tilt on that picture of Embankment 4!

I wish gearmakers wouldn't anodise nuts. Can't someone tell them how wanky it looks? Like things some eastern European in a van would try and sell you in the Tremadog car park.

Are these the same things that used to come with plastic sheaths to the handles?

jcm
 TobyA 21 Jul 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> That's some major tilt on that picture of Embankment 4!

No tilt at all - it was just taken from halfway up Covent Garden so an odd perspective.

> Are these the same things that used to come with plastic sheaths to the handles?

Handles? If you mean on the loop ends, then yes.


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