UKC

"Sometimes in life it's good to set a goal, something that takes planning, is measurable and achievable. For me I cope with the humdrum of everyday life by creating a personal challenge, usually associated with mountaineering.

When I saw the local forecast, predicting a clear spell which would give the snow and ice enough time to stabilize followed by a window in the weather large enough for a multi day trip, then I knew it was time to tackle the notorious North face of the Eiger."

David Gladwin tells us his Eiger North Face Story

Read more: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=958

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Brilliant, I enjoyed reading that. Really good pictures too.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Great article. One minor point of pedantry, just check the date for Death Bivi, I am sure it was before the 1938 ascent, so not 1939.

In reply to The New NickB:
Good point, Mehringer and Sedlmeyer died at Death Bivouac in 1935.

In reply to All: I'm currently (re)reading white spider so this article is timely for me. Not something that I would ever attempt but hats off to the guys that do!

Steve D

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Good stuff.

1 in 13 previous attempts ending in a death: is that true? I have my doubts. Prior to the first ascent perhaps, but now?

Stuart

In reply to Removed User:

Prior to the first ascent, the death rate was more like 50%--getting off the face alive before 1938 was a notable event!

1/13 death rate sounds about right to me.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I'm feeling pedantic so . . .


Should that be a 1 in 13 chance of death? - I wonder if people would still attempt it if there was only a 1 in 13 chance of coming back?

In reply to Removed User:

I suspect that deaths on the actual face are quite rare these days, but quite a few deaths seem to occur on the descent.

In The Beckoning Silence, Joe Simpson mentions there being no deaths on the face for ten years, until the two British guys that they witnessed falling from the 2nd Icefield, this was September 2000.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Nice article. When was the ascent?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: isn't the north face just a death trap these days? in winter i guess its probably ok, though?

In reply to Removed User: Got to admit I've got reservations about that figure too, certainly of it being accurate to date. I wonder if the author could say where he got it from?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Enjoyed the article, but would very much like to learn the source of the mortality statistics. I've tried to do the research myself, but have been told that no one is keeping track of the number of attempts or even the number of deaths. Could David please let me know where the 70 deaths figure came from? Also the 1 death per 13 attempts, which seems exceedingly high--but also tricky to measure: is the attempt an individual or a team? I.e., Would 13 attempts be 13 climbers or 13 teams of two = 26 climbers? And if you in fact have a good source of statistics, do you know what percentage of the deaths occurs on the descent? When I climbed it three years ago we went to the top of the Jungfraujoch (about 5 hours versus 3) and took the train down from there. Longer, but safer. And truly beautiful, too; a worthy outing in its own right. Finally, if you (or anyone else) know where to get these statistics, I'd really appreciate learning the source so I can ask directly. Thanks!

In reply to John Harlin: Are you John Harlin's son?