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The Hot Aches film, Committed, will be premiered at the Climbing Works, Sheffield on Sunday 14th October 2007 at 8.15pm. Tickets are £6 / £5 concessions (including Climbing Works Members) and are available in advance via the Climbing Works or on the door.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
In reply to Simon: Probably, does clash with top gear though
In reply to Paul B:
its repeated Wednesday - so get down to the do - its gonna be quite something I reck!
Si
> (In reply to Simon) Probably, does clash with top gear though
its repeated Wednesday - so get down to the do - its gonna be quite something I reck!
Si
In reply to Simon:
So what did people think? Did the Climibng Works work as a venue? Did you enjoy the film? Feedback always appreciated...
MattH
So what did people think? Did the Climibng Works work as a venue? Did you enjoy the film? Feedback always appreciated...
MattH
In reply to MattH:
The overall feel of last night was like going over to your mates and watching Hard Grit. I've been choking ever since I left there last night, on probably a chalk bag's worth of Chalk...
The film was good, but it wasn't what I was expecting.
The overall feel of last night was like going over to your mates and watching Hard Grit. I've been choking ever since I left there last night, on probably a chalk bag's worth of Chalk...
The film was good, but it wasn't what I was expecting.
In reply to Bergshrund:
Having not seen it myself (but want to) what id you expect from it?
Having not seen it myself (but want to) what id you expect from it?
In reply to Bergshrund:
Care to expand a little on that statement?
I should get my copy in the posat today, so will be able to voice an opinion tomorrow.
Really looking forward to seeing it tho!
>
> The film was good, but it wasn't what I was expecting.
> The film was good, but it wasn't what I was expecting.
Care to expand a little on that statement?
I should get my copy in the posat today, so will be able to voice an opinion tomorrow.
Really looking forward to seeing it tho!
In reply to Stash:
It was very similar to E11 in feel. It felt like 'More of MacLeod'. The fact that it starts back at Rhapsody said it all.
It was very similar to E11 in feel. It felt like 'More of MacLeod'. The fact that it starts back at Rhapsody said it all.
In reply to 220bpm:
It's been delayed. The release date is later this week according to the people who've made it.
It's been delayed. The release date is later this week according to the people who've made it.
In reply to 220bpm:
> I should get my copy in the posat today, so will be able to voice an opinion tomorrow.
>
Sadly not - hold-ups at the manufacturers means that delivery has been delayed a wee bit. See the Hotaches blog for details. >
In reply to Bergshrund:
Anybody else find the chalk an issue? Obviously never having use the Climbing Works as a venue like this before it's all new. As for going over to your mates house, well the idea was to make it as informal and friendly as possible. I hope that worked...
MattH
Anybody else find the chalk an issue? Obviously never having use the Climbing Works as a venue like this before it's all new. As for going over to your mates house, well the idea was to make it as informal and friendly as possible. I hope that worked...
MattH
In reply to Bergshrund:
But he is the leading climber in the country at the mo isnt he?
Anyway still looking forward to seeing it!
But he is the leading climber in the country at the mo isnt he?
Anyway still looking forward to seeing it!
In reply to MattH:
I'm still choking!
I'm glad there were chairs. Good raffle too, my girlfriend won a prize!
I'm still choking!
I'm glad there were chairs. Good raffle too, my girlfriend won a prize!
In reply to MattH:
The Climbing Works did work as a venue IMHO - I personally preferred the informal atmosphere over a "cinema"-tyoe arrangement (i.e. the showroom or similar). Very chilled out and relaxed atmosphere - nice touches like Sam offering people cushions from the sofas etc to sit on.
The film was good in general terms, but I'd agree that some scenes didn't quite live up to expectations. There were a few top-quality moments, but I felt that in a few of the scenes some of the camera work could have been better (i.e. the footage of Macleod on the route in the Mournes - seemed very dark and was hard to make out the climber). I enjoyed the footage of Pearson on the promise and of Kathryn Schirmacher on Balance It Is. Also a few memorable moments like the loose rock on Pabbay and Mawson's fall off Meshuga
The Climbing Works did work as a venue IMHO - I personally preferred the informal atmosphere over a "cinema"-tyoe arrangement (i.e. the showroom or similar). Very chilled out and relaxed atmosphere - nice touches like Sam offering people cushions from the sofas etc to sit on.
The film was good in general terms, but I'd agree that some scenes didn't quite live up to expectations. There were a few top-quality moments, but I felt that in a few of the scenes some of the camera work could have been better (i.e. the footage of Macleod on the route in the Mournes - seemed very dark and was hard to make out the climber). I enjoyed the footage of Pearson on the promise and of Kathryn Schirmacher on Balance It Is. Also a few memorable moments like the loose rock on Pabbay and Mawson's fall off Meshuga
In reply to 1234None:
The thing that also confused me was the footage of Dave M. climbing in the dark. You could barely see it.
The thing that also confused me was the footage of Dave M. climbing in the dark. You could barely see it.
In reply to Bergshrund:
That's because it was filmed about 5 minutes before sunset and the light was fading very fast.
That's because it was filmed about 5 minutes before sunset and the light was fading very fast.
In reply to MattH:
The Climbing Works made an excellent venue. No problem with chalk for me.
I felt the film lacked the dramatic impact of some of the previous trad climbing films and some of the best clips were actually from the other films. I suppose the film makers can't help it if the climbers don't all take Jean Mihn-Trihn type falls, but there were no really stand-out sweaty palm moments for me apart from perhaps James Pearson twanging the runner on Trauma.
I also felt that the editing let it down a bit. Many of the clips failed to engage in the story of the ascent. For example; when Dave MacCleod climbed the steep route on the sea cliff, placing all the gear on lead, he said he was climbing past runner placements because it was too pumpy. However, in the edit we saw him climb but never really saw him place runners on the steep section despite two runners suddenly appearing halfway through the sequence. This ascent was about placing gear when pumped, not about steep moves so much. There were a couple of other places where I felt this happened as well.
Having said that, overall it is a huge effort to have compiled such an extensive catalogue of ascents and the quality of the filming was generally very good.
Alan
The Climbing Works made an excellent venue. No problem with chalk for me.
I felt the film lacked the dramatic impact of some of the previous trad climbing films and some of the best clips were actually from the other films. I suppose the film makers can't help it if the climbers don't all take Jean Mihn-Trihn type falls, but there were no really stand-out sweaty palm moments for me apart from perhaps James Pearson twanging the runner on Trauma.
I also felt that the editing let it down a bit. Many of the clips failed to engage in the story of the ascent. For example; when Dave MacCleod climbed the steep route on the sea cliff, placing all the gear on lead, he said he was climbing past runner placements because it was too pumpy. However, in the edit we saw him climb but never really saw him place runners on the steep section despite two runners suddenly appearing halfway through the sequence. This ascent was about placing gear when pumped, not about steep moves so much. There were a couple of other places where I felt this happened as well.
Having said that, overall it is a huge effort to have compiled such an extensive catalogue of ascents and the quality of the filming was generally very good.
Alan
In reply to Bergshrund: I think that was the point.
The works worked as a venue for more things like this in the future. Maybe a starting time a little earlier and a quick clean of the mats! I realise they would have to close the climbing wall earlier as well to do this.
The works worked as a venue for more things like this in the future. Maybe a starting time a little earlier and a quick clean of the mats! I realise they would have to close the climbing wall earlier as well to do this.
In reply to MattH:
The Works worked as a venue, it gave the evening a pretty rootsy vibe. And really, chalk shouldn't put off the target audience! I wonder if you'd have gotten a bigger audience down the Showroom though, as the event would have benefitted from their advertising? Depends if bums on seats is all you're after I guess.
The film did seem a bit lacking in the sweaty palms department, but it worked really well in showing the diversity of trad in the British Isles. Maybe a film that set out with this as its remit would have been more balanced and satisfying, with routes in Cornwall and Pembroke Gogarth, the slate etc shown (long way from the hotaches "cave" though!).
Having said that Pabbay looked like it was worth a film all of its own, or even 'a day in the life of Ben Cossey'- what a champ.
The Works worked as a venue, it gave the evening a pretty rootsy vibe. And really, chalk shouldn't put off the target audience! I wonder if you'd have gotten a bigger audience down the Showroom though, as the event would have benefitted from their advertising? Depends if bums on seats is all you're after I guess.
The film did seem a bit lacking in the sweaty palms department, but it worked really well in showing the diversity of trad in the British Isles. Maybe a film that set out with this as its remit would have been more balanced and satisfying, with routes in Cornwall and Pembroke Gogarth, the slate etc shown (long way from the hotaches "cave" though!).
Having said that Pabbay looked like it was worth a film all of its own, or even 'a day in the life of Ben Cossey'- what a champ.
In reply to tony:
Garrr, what with the postal strikes it could be here in time for Xmas then.....
> (In reply to 220bpm)
> [...]
> Sadly not - hold-ups at the manufacturers means that delivery has been delayed a wee bit. See the Hotaches blog for details.
> [...]
> Sadly not - hold-ups at the manufacturers means that delivery has been delayed a wee bit. See the Hotaches blog for details.
Garrr, what with the postal strikes it could be here in time for Xmas then.....
In reply to PatEase:
Bums on seats is obviously fairly important, but I'd much prefer a good atmosphere with fewer people than a dry atmosphere with loads of people. Feedback (like this, but also word of mouth) is very important and seems to be pretty good. That said, the Showroom is also a very good venue and I'll be using it for other events later this winter. Given that we only decided to premiere Committed about 3 weeks ago 240 people was a pretty good turnout and we wouldn't have been able to use the Showroom's marketing as their brochure had alredy gone to print.
Bums on seats is obviously fairly important, but I'd much prefer a good atmosphere with fewer people than a dry atmosphere with loads of people. Feedback (like this, but also word of mouth) is very important and seems to be pretty good. That said, the Showroom is also a very good venue and I'll be using it for other events later this winter. Given that we only decided to premiere Committed about 3 weeks ago 240 people was a pretty good turnout and we wouldn't have been able to use the Showroom's marketing as their brochure had alredy gone to print.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Really enjoyed seeing the film down the climbing works. Like how climbing works is becoming a hub of the community. Would have been nice if some of the climbers answered some questions at the end like they did in the cinema for E11 and set in stone. Good film although the different sections did not fit together very well. By far the best bit in my opinion is Jude(?) onsighting Lord of the Flies. Amazing!
In reply to Ackbar:
Ditto.....a better introduction.....with mine host introducing the film makers.
And at the end....don't just finish the film and let people filter out.
Formally finish it with a Q+A, discussion and maybe some Access/BMC stuff.
Enjoyed the film. The Keen Youth Extra is brill as Tom said in his review.
Tom Brigg's review
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=535
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) Would have been nice if some of the climbers answered some questions at the end like they did in the cinema for E11 and set in stone.
Ditto.....a better introduction.....with mine host introducing the film makers.
And at the end....don't just finish the film and let people filter out.
Formally finish it with a Q+A, discussion and maybe some Access/BMC stuff.
Enjoyed the film. The Keen Youth Extra is brill as Tom said in his review.
Tom Brigg's review
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=535
In reply to MattH:
The works:
I liked the atmosphere of the works as a venue - chalk no problem - and if it they host another one then Sam & co have obviously learnt from it (Sam said he though 4 cases of booze would be enough & wasn't expecting the turnout!)
Used the space well & it was cool sitting on the mats.
The film :
Thought it went on a bit & lost direction in some scenes and I thought that some people were over showcased. The commentary was a tad flat & it made the film a bit dour - with little in the way of humour.
Lord of the flies ascent was awe-inspiring & the best moment for me, but the ending was, as people had said, poorly organised.
Matt could have bunged grimer a few quid to do a bit o' blarney and interview some of the climbers etc etc...
Good night all in all though!
Cheers
Si
The works:
I liked the atmosphere of the works as a venue - chalk no problem - and if it they host another one then Sam & co have obviously learnt from it (Sam said he though 4 cases of booze would be enough & wasn't expecting the turnout!)
Used the space well & it was cool sitting on the mats.
The film :
Thought it went on a bit & lost direction in some scenes and I thought that some people were over showcased. The commentary was a tad flat & it made the film a bit dour - with little in the way of humour.
Lord of the flies ascent was awe-inspiring & the best moment for me, but the ending was, as people had said, poorly organised.
Matt could have bunged grimer a few quid to do a bit o' blarney and interview some of the climbers etc etc...
Good night all in all though!
Cheers
Si
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I thought the climbing works worked well, and although the split audience was a little odd it was deffently better than everyone peering over heads and round corners to catcha glimpse.
I thought the film had plenty of hand sweating/ heart in mouth moments - persons failed wire placment, mccloud nearly dropping a cam, the fall off mushenga and the lose rock on scottish sea cliffs to name but a few, i also thought the angel share and the cratcliff groove toprope footage was inspiring.
Although editing/production can be critisised i think when it comes down to it the sheer volume of hard climbing made up for it.
Anyone who is overly critical of this film should go out and make a better one, and when it come down to that i am willing to bet there wont be many better in the next few years.
I thought the climbing works worked well, and although the split audience was a little odd it was deffently better than everyone peering over heads and round corners to catcha glimpse.
I thought the film had plenty of hand sweating/ heart in mouth moments - persons failed wire placment, mccloud nearly dropping a cam, the fall off mushenga and the lose rock on scottish sea cliffs to name but a few, i also thought the angel share and the cratcliff groove toprope footage was inspiring.
Although editing/production can be critisised i think when it comes down to it the sheer volume of hard climbing made up for it.
Anyone who is overly critical of this film should go out and make a better one, and when it come down to that i am willing to bet there wont be many better in the next few years.
In reply to joe_alexander:
"Anyone who is overly critical of this film should go out and make a better one, and when it come down to that i am willing to bet there wont be many better in the next few years".
Take a look at a few on the way!
Hard XS( hard grits creators), PSYCHE(posingproductions), King Lines( Josh Lowell, Pete Mortimer).
think you just lost your bet!!!
"Anyone who is overly critical of this film should go out and make a better one, and when it come down to that i am willing to bet there wont be many better in the next few years".
Take a look at a few on the way!
Hard XS( hard grits creators), PSYCHE(posingproductions), King Lines( Josh Lowell, Pete Mortimer).
think you just lost your bet!!!
In reply to Stash: I dunno, i think for big trad lines its going to be hard to touch committed. I know psyche is going to have the skye wall route on it which should be amazing, but i dont know how much more really inspiring trad there is going to be on there (ok the alpinism stuff should be great too, as long as its not just tones of footage of people being cold on portaledges)
as for king lines is there much trad on there? impressive as some of the sports routes sharma does are i can help but think that some of the big trad lines are more inspiring
hard xs should be good, but have the got many big adventures on tape? i dunno
as for king lines is there much trad on there? impressive as some of the sports routes sharma does are i can help but think that some of the big trad lines are more inspiring
hard xs should be good, but have the got many big adventures on tape? i dunno
> hard xs should be good, but have the got many big adventures on tape? i dunno
Yes, but surely it's quality over quantity that's important? That's why I thought the night footage of Dave M. was a bit pointless. You can barely see it.
In reply to Bergshrund: it proves a point though doesn't it? the clue is in the name
In reply to joe_alexander:
Everyone's entitled to their opinion but.................... REALLY?!
> (
> as for king lines is there much trad on there? impressive as some of the sports routes sharma does are i can help but think that some of the big trad lines are more inspiring
>
>> as for king lines is there much trad on there? impressive as some of the sports routes sharma does are i can help but think that some of the big trad lines are more inspiring
>
Everyone's entitled to their opinion but.................... REALLY?!
In reply to seagull: Topless men yelling at stones just doesnt do it for me... sorry
In reply to joe_alexander:
That's actually a good point. There were very distinct lapses in direction. I think James Pearson and Adam Long came out of the film well. As did Kathy S.
That's actually a good point. There were very distinct lapses in direction. I think James Pearson and Adam Long came out of the film well. As did Kathy S.
In reply to joe_alexander:
I wasn't talking about watching World's Strongest Man. Although Geoff Capes was always quite inspiring I suppose.
I wasn't talking about watching World's Strongest Man. Although Geoff Capes was always quite inspiring I suppose.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Perhaps the chalk on the mats was the cause of palms not sweating?!!
Surely the first time people have complained about *not* having sweaty palms in a climbing centre?!
Perhaps the chalk on the mats was the cause of palms not sweating?!!
Surely the first time people have complained about *not* having sweaty palms in a climbing centre?!
In reply to MattH:
Hi Matt
thought last night was great, although chalk all over my clothes was a little pain! not much.
Really liked the atmosphere, but as others have said it needed something at the end instead of everyone just leaving!
Well done.
Sam Orange House
P.S I spoke to Mick Ryan last night and confirmed what we said about the Commercial Profile, I am getting one this week.
Hi Matt
thought last night was great, although chalk all over my clothes was a little pain! not much.
Really liked the atmosphere, but as others have said it needed something at the end instead of everyone just leaving!
Well done.
Sam Orange House
P.S I spoke to Mick Ryan last night and confirmed what we said about the Commercial Profile, I am getting one this week.
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