NEW REVIEW: Edelrid Eddy vs. Petzl Grigri by Adrian Berry

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Michael Ryan 08 Aug 2007
"When writing articles or books, I've always taken the decision to refer to gear by its generic names, rather than using branded names, as I think it's fairer to everyone. However, when penning Sport Climbing+, the ubiquitous Petzl Grigri had its own double page spread and the accolade 'justifiably the best and most popular belay devices in the world of sport climbing'.

Not long after publication, the Edelrid Eddy found its way into my hands and it was immediately apparent that Petzl were going to have to play catch-up."

Read Adrian Berry's full review at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=489

If you have used the Edelrid Eddy please feel free to add your comments to this forum thread.
 daveyji 08 Aug 2007
I have been using an Eddy for a while now and am very impressed with it. It isn't possible to hold the cam open during a fall and it feels much safer than a badly used grigri.
It needs lubrication on certain parts and I thought that would attract dirt and cause wear but after much use this has not been a problem.
It is harder to open than a grigri but thats the only criticism I can think of.
 TobyA 08 Aug 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I used the both the Eddy and the Faders Sum last weekend - and it was very interesting to compare side by side these two as they both want to be new grigris. The thing that I found most about the Eddy was that the second lock postion meant that you couldn't get much control over the speed you lowered - it was either lower or don't, the only way to do it slower was to hold the dead rope down to increase the angle of entry just as you would do with any bog standard friction belay device like an ATC or stitch plate.

The Sum in contrast has a lower of lever that has to be pressed in to lower. It has a very strong spring meaning you need strong hands - not a problem for most adult climbers but I imagine some youngster might find it difficult.

The sum is mechanically simple, smaller and lighter - I really couldn't decide which I preferred. I need to belay leaders with a bit more to see which feels better paying out. I've only started using a grigri regularly recently, and paying out seems a nightmare, perhaps I need more practice with that, but both the Sum and the Eddy seemed a bit better at first and quick use.
 richardhopton 13 Aug 2007
i dont subscribe to the pay out problem, dont you just hold the top of the Grigri, covering the arm so it cant move and block the pay out..then if in trouble "hands off" and auto takes over?? I'm sure thats how you do it??

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...