UKH

In the spirit of balance and equality.  

Which UK crag do you rate the most? 

I imagine Stanage is high on the list due to the sheer number and breadth of grades. I'm only familiar with mainly peak rock destinations but have climbed in Scotland and Wales. I'm interested to know  so I can keep some good recommendations in mind for my forays back into the climbing world.  

Consider all factors , grades, number of climbs, views. 

Over to you UKC

TWS

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

For me Cloggy - for the route quality, cliff location/ setting, and history. Gogarth second

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Can the Roaches, Hen Cloud, Ramshaw and Baldsotnes count as one?

Them.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

I suspect saying the north face of Nevis is a bit unfair due to the sheer size of it so I'll say Malham. Unless I can claim 'Pembroke' as one crag...

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Fair Head, Carnmore and Slipstones. Carnmore if I had to pick one. An incredible place. 

In reply to alan moore:

Yes, if I can count the Grochan and the Cromlech as one, let's do a deal

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Scafell

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Langdale. All of it.

In reply to profitofdoom:

Seconded - so to speak

Chris

In reply to alan moore:

I reckon so , being so close together.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

The cuttings

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Gogarth. It both amazes and terrifies me in equal measure.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Wharncliffe. No slopers or any of that stuff, just nice geometric edges and ledges to get your gear in. A lack of 5a HVS is the only issue. Also has a good history.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

The Hillside behind the CC hut up to Cyrn Las in the Llanberis Pass, Satellites, Utopia, Pieshop, The Meadow. Fabulous rock, brilliant problems in a glorious place. Really tests your commitment hauling big pads up there, although not as much as the Cloggy Boulder.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Gogarth. No question.

Sea cliff climbing is one of the most magical things about climbing in the UK.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Shepherds.  Yes it's busy and it's becoming a victim of its own popularity, but it's justifiably popular and I absolutely love it.

Tremadog (see above): Craig y gesail has my all-time favourite route on it.

Bus stop quarry, but generally Dinorwic slate.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

My head  probably says as long a section of my choice of South Pembroke as I'm allowed to count as one crag, but my heart definitely says the Shelterstone (or maybe Reiff, or maybe, The Far East Wall on Beinn Eighe, or maybe The East Buttress of Sron na Ciche, or maybe something on The Barra Isles........... )

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

The Ravenstones for me, possibly for sentimental reasons but there is a good range of routes and one of the most dramatic situations in the Peak. 

Since you don't mention the Lakes I will put in a mention for High Crag, Buttermere, brilliant rock and quality routes  in a picturesque setting. Quite an amenable walk in by Lakes' standards, too.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

The one I've not yet been to, that occupies the fantasies of my working day!

And pretty much any of the major Lakes crags. Grey Crag in Buttermere must have some of the best views: over to Scafell, Gable, Pillar and Steeple; Ennerdale, Mirk Cove, Newlands and Borrowdale; then out past Buttermere toward the sea! On a clear day you can see so far; on a hot day, when a heat haze rises, all the reds, purples and turquoise of the lakes and fells seem to seep their colours up into the air. A truly beautiful place.

In reply to guy127917:

The spirit of balance and equality just gave you a thumbs up I think

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Despite my recognition and enjoyment of Scottish giants such as Carnmore, Shelterstone, Dubh Loch, Carn Dearg Buttress and the like, my affinity for The Lake District and the grandeur of sea cliff climbing at Anglesey, Cornwall, Pembroke etc, for me it has to be Cloggy - first last and always.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

South of Scottish border (because I've done embarrassingly little in Scotland):

Roaches
Scafell
Gimmer
Pillar
Cloggy
Cromlech
Nose and Wings of the Mot

Scotland:

Sron na Ciche
Cir Mhor (Arran)

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Reading this thread brings home how lucky we are.

couple of thoughts, the vast majority of the crags mentioned are trad venues, it’s an important part of U.K. climbing and we must protect it.

one other plea, these great crags and the routes on them will deteriorate if we treat them badly. Be nice it’s all we’ve got.

In reply to Anti-faff:

I can only guess at how good a crag has to be to overcome a 4 HOUR walk in!!!

I can count on two hands the number of climbing "days" where I've been able to get away for more than 4 hours in the last 2 years. Parenting has taken its toll.

For me it would be Fairhead or the Slate.

I've yet to find a scottish crag that feels world class, probably more to do with personal preference and my time constraints than anything to do with Scotland.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Whitestone Cliffe

In reply to yodadave:

Arguably, no British crags are world class.

I'd be genuinely interested to know what are the best Scottish Crags you have climbed on.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Wharncliffe is such a good crag. Doesn't tend to be very green, always quiet. Positive edges so it's one of the gritstone Crags that's good in summer. Good chance of seeing an Adder. Shame its not a bit taller though  

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

From a purely personal perspective,

1. crag point seaton sluice. It's where I first climbed. learned a lot about overcoming a perfectly rational fear of falling from a teetering pile of sandy choss onto pointy rocks. learned a lot about very careful hand and foot placement and learned that Climbing (as opposed to ball sports) was something I really enjoyed.

2. Simonside. I spent most of my early climbing 'career' here and the peace and space instilled a deep love of the outdoors. Plenty of easy routes to bimble around on, on a summer's eve and plenty of much harder routes to test one's self.  (Also nowhere near as overcrowded as Bowden).  

In reply to yodadave:

That was part of the appeal! For me it was worth it as I spent a great weekend there last year with my best mate ticking a couple of classics and drinking whisky. 

Fair enough, both fab. 

I'm surprised to hear that, even The Ben? The Cuillin? Alright, it’s not a crag, but still...

In reply to Anti-faff:

The Ben is world class in top winter nick. In summer it is as good, but not world class - just one of the great Scottish crags.

In reply to Lornajkelly:

With all due respect, I think you need to get out more.

In reply to Robert Durran:

hmmm well most things make it to my logbook so you can take a look at where i've been. In my estimation the best have been in no particular order:

Dunkeld - decent length of pitches and some great short sections of climbing 

Auchinstary - because i love trad routes on hard sandstone not because of asthetics or anything else really

Sneachda - in full winter its special

I felt like there might be some real gems on the sandstone sport by Arbroath but I didn't climb any of them

Dumby has a special appeal, a freaking castle on top! but i think only the high end routes look that good

Kingussie, Moy, and the stuff near lossie are all enjoyable but meh

Weem has a couple of trad lines that are underated and again for scottish singlepitch they feel nice and tall.

Not climbed rock on the Ben, recommend me a route 

where are all the hidden gems that I'm missing? I finally have decent partners this year so I'd love to know where to go

In reply to Anti-faff:

Certainly an incredible place but I find it  somewhat flawed compared with the great Scottish mountain crags - that central bay of nasty steep vegetation either breaks up a combination of routes on both tiers or necessitates a faffy approach (and I'm a bit anti-faff...... ). Some great routes though.

In reply to yodadave:

That list of crags explains a lot!

They're not hidden. They're all either in the mountains or in the NW and islands.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

I'm surprised an area that needs two definitive guides to describe is being considered a crag!

I suspect the best crags are in Scotland but none I've yet been to. 

In reply to Tyler:

Does it matter ?

Most people are giving lists anyway.

It's just nice to see peoples opinions on where and why they like what they like.

Light hearted and climbing related .

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Great thread. 

Pillar ( wake up at dawn , climb in the  sun on Shamrock, and follow it round to finish on the west face at sunset ) 

You can obviously do this on Scafell but Pillar seems more remote . 

Gable 

Dun Mingulay isn’t bad either ....

or Corbys for after work soloing in the sun until it disappears behind Cheviot ...

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Stac Pollaidh sandstone. Top out on the summit in the evening sunshine, looking west to the Hebrides and below your feet lies the dappled knock and lochans of Assynt. 

To discourage as many people as possible, it is usually blowing a wet gale with no view. 

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Tremadog or Sron na Ciche.

In reply to Heartinthe highlands:

Good call.

I'd ho for Creag an Dubh Loch.

Not only are the routes of a good length but the crag is very extensive.

The rock is very good.

There are 3 star routes from vs up to E5 or E6 IIRC.

The walk in isn't huge.

For a sea cliff Sheigra sticks in my mind. Incredible rock and a brilliant situation.

For single pitch stuff on beatiful rock in a beautiful place I'd choose Diabeg.

...and on what other piece of rock do you routinely get full runouts with no gear than the Etive slabs.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Diabaig. Rock quality, unbelievably beautiful location.

In reply to Robert Durran:

haha yeah I know!

I almost made it to Mull the other weekend which looks good, care to name any specific crags?

In reply to yodadave:

Never mind world class, those venues barely even count as 'OK'! You mentioned Mull - for location and rock quality Erraid beats all of those put together...

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Scafell. Well worth the walk.

T.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

This thread, or a predecessor, was what drove me to make my first ever contribution to UKC, 20 years or so ago. I was inspired by someone who thought Tremadog was the greatest crag in these islands to observe that while I didn’t know what the greatest crag was, I was pretty sure it didn’t have a road at the bottom of it.

Cloggy for me; second choice Gogarth and Fair Head (a single crag about the size of Pembroke only with much better routes).

jcm

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

If I'm not wanting to do multi-pitches (sorry Robert), Reiff. I live 10 minutes from Curbar and 15 from Stanage, but still Reiff.

In reply to Pursued by a bear:

My one attempt to climb there several years ago got rained off on the walk up.   Proper rained off.  

I'll have to put it on the list.  

I did like Dow in the lakes though and Raven had some really memorable routes in Langdale.  

Epic fun .  

In reply to Removed User:

Fixed that for you!

Id second the Dubh Loch too, although it’s quite seepy and undertravelled.

Pabbay is a single listing on UKC, so I’d go with that!

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Location, yes, as good as it gets, but the actual climbing? I didn't even bother and went for a swim instead!

In reply to Removed User

And now, once again, bolt free (so I'm told).

Lundy

In reply to Robert Durran:

Have they done a good job? And did they replace the tat around the dodgy block or are they leaving that up to those who come after?

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Horse shoe quarry - I feel it’s distinctly underrated 

In reply to TobyA:

I assume they will have done a good job, but I know no more.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Sharpnose deserves a mention... Not that I can really decide between there, Gogarth, Gimmer, Pembroke. Climbing on the Ben is amazing as is Cloggy but having only done 1 routes on each so far can I name either as the best??? 

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

The Cromlech for me. It’s not that extensive, but the number of 3* classics packed in and the position high above the Pass is hard to rival.  I’ve only actually climbed there twice, but both days were highlights of my climbing career that will live with me a long time.

Sharpnose is also pretty high on the list. Such unusual features, a great coastal setting, and many great days there.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Ps is Gogarth really one crag? It always feels more like an area than a single crag to me.

It is great though, and Main Cliff alone is pretty immense.

In reply to J Whittaker:

OK it has some amazing routes, but it's shite compared Dun Mingulay. I remember the first time I saw gogarth main cliff: I was very confused. Routes? On that? 

Sheigra is like a baby dun mingulay - utterly amazing and not as traumatic. 

Slipstones is the best of the small.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Boulder Ruckle!?!

Overhanging, moderate grades, committed ab in, miles long. It’s one of the only crags I miss from here in Canada

In reply to SenzuBean:

Poor man's St Govans. Which is the worst crag in Pembroke. 

In reply to Jon Stewart:

You have partially redeemed yourself by demonstrating a refined taste in sea cliffs

In reply to Robert Durran:

I'm surprised. My main criticism is that the routes are short, but the granite is amazing. Similar scenario to a lot of Reiff I guess.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Maybe I'll give it another go sometime then. most of it looked more like mere extended boulder problems to me, but maybe I got the wrong impression. All the good stuff at Reiff feels like proper pitches!

In reply to Anti-faff:

I second Carnmore an amazing place.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

For me it has to be Mother Carey's Kitchen. Nice choice of exciting routes in a great location.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

thanks for the recommendation.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Don't be surprised! The thread idea of "Which UK crag do you rate the most ?" is pretty subjective

Good thread anyway!

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

My semi serious nomination is Bosigran, mainly because I've not done a rubbish route yet there, the position is positvely lovely, there's always a pretty chilled atmosphere, and I love the rock. Plus there's not many sea-pubes. Other than that, as a not so serious suggestion just purely for a bonkers route, Skeleton Ridge - yeah it's a pretty niche crag with basically one route that's a steaming pile of choss, but the POSITION... you'll only do it once or unless you're slightly sick in the head, twice, but the memories will stay with you forever. One of the few crags I've wanted to go do for years, massively hyped it up in my head only for the reality to exceed expectations... A nomination for favourite grit crag, Curbar because it's brutal.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

I’d agree with this. Erraid as a whole package: Rock, beach, views, cows, exploring, is amazing.  Great place. 

Ok the crags aren’t mind blowing, but the rock is (generally) excellent and there are some great routes if you can find them.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Trad - Cloggy, Kilt Rock (on Skye) or the Cromlech. Although the Shelterstone is pretty awesome too as are most of the other big Scottish mountain crags.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Gimmer, Dow and Scafell.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

I've noticed a bit of a trend amongst a certain age group, of which I am one, for Cloggy and I'm not willing to buck that trend.  Cloggy all the way for me.

Al

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Extremely hard to say, there are so many factors involved. I'm going to choose one from each region if I may!

Scotland (islands) - Sron na Ciche

Scotland (mainland) - Diabaig

England (north) - Esk Buttress

England (south)  - Chair Ladder

Wales (north) - Clogwyn du'r Arddu

Wales (south) - Mother Carey's Kitchen

But ask me again tomorrow and I'll have a different list!

In reply to sn:

It’s the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland. You may have missed something........?

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

60-odd posts an no mention of Almscliffe?!

Or is this just local bias?

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Slime wall BEM. Great rock, atmosphere by the bucket and outstanding routes such as Shibboleth, Apparition with the True Finish, Bludgers/Revelation, Lechers/Superstition, New Testament and Apocalypse.  Or quite simply any other crag on the mountain. Have to say Cloggy and Scafell are up there, but that's in other countries

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Interesting that the big mountain and sea cliff are the ones that are repeatedly mentioned, rather than the grit edges. Guess the routes are more memorable.

So much of it is tied up with our individual selves: the place, the people, the routes, the memories.

So...

Carnmore

Sron na Ciche (Blaven has maybe a greater call on my psyche, but realistically, Sron na Ciche is better)
Etive
Bosigran (West Penwith is just awesome - so many great places. But Bosigran is the crowning glory)

Never climbed at Fair Head, so can't comment. But for the Lakes I might choose Lower Falcon crag in Borrowdale, and for Wales Cloggy has to get the nod (closely followed by Gogarth and the Cromlech)

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

I used to love Bowden Doors for its rock, lovely outlook and it felt remote and peaceful back in the old lords time. Not sure what I'd make of it nowadays. I would also give out a vote for Etive for it being fairly unique in Britain and it's stunning location.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

I have climbed on all of the (serious) suggestions here with the exception of Scafell (obviously this needs remedying). 

In my opinion the only ones that are genuine contenders for The Best Crag are:

Pembroke

Fair Head

Ben Nevis

Gogarth

Pabbay/Mingulay (if taken as one crag, which they aren't)

So many votes for Cloggy, and while it is great, there are a load of mountain crags in Scotland that are as good or better. If a mountain crag gets a look in there with the best sea cliffs, it has to be the Ben for its all round summer/winter/alpine class.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

Good post. Mother Carey's Kitchen on a sunny day with the tide running.

In reply to Andy Moles:

I really, really, really hate to say it, but I'm not actually convinced that is unarguably true. There is nothing on Cloggy to compare with the best of the Shelterstone, the best of Far East Wall, the best of the East Buttress of Sron na Ciche, the best of the Dubh Loch (etc. etc.), but I think it could be argued that Cloggy has greater quality at a wide spread of difficulty and variety of styles than any single Scottish crag (not, of course that I would swap it for any of them!).

I had assumed (perhaps wrongly) that the thread was only considering summer. In which case Ben Nevis does not really stand out from the other great mountain crags.

In reply to Chive Talkin\': for reference I don't live in the UK - if I were to recommend to someone from outside the UK, or if I'm visiting, the recommended crags, Areas I'd visit are Stanage, Pembroke and Gogarth. There's good climbing in other places, but these ones are, to a degree, unique experiences

In reply to Andy Moles:

To continue the support for N.Ireland or indeed the whole island of Ireland I think the Mournes deserve to be on the list. I've not climbed there near enough to know the best crag in the Mournes but I've climbed enough to say they are worth peoples time.

In reply to Robert Durran:

Maybe you're right, my comparison is based on a sampling of the best routes, where I don't think Cloggy matches some of those you mention, but maybe it has more quality overall.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

For me it is Gogarth.

I like Cloggy, I have done a good few routes there, but I struggle to see it as the best as the routes are a little dirty and often loose and vegetated in place. Not to mention the limited time the crag is actually in condition. Controversially I would possibly say it is the most over-rated crag in the UK.

I have not climbed at Fairhead, but this may be the best crag I have not climbed at, yet!

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

I'm pretty sure I'd rate Cloggy as greatest if I could get up there a bit more (only 5 times so far) but based on what I know I'd say the Tremadog cliffs if that counts as one crag or a toss up between Pant Ifan or Bwlch y moch otherwise.

In reply to yodadave:

Much as I love the Mournes, and I really do, none of the crags is anywhere near the best in the UK.

In reply to Mark Reeves:

No, that is very definitely Gogarth.

In reply to Chive Talkin\':

I lived in Nottingham when I started climbing, and we would doss out in the Peak most weekends. On the way out on Friday, we we generally stopped off at Black Rocks (great crag), and High Tor, which was the real prize. Starting with Original Route, doing all the routes starting with 'D', sketchy leads on the Pillar, mapped out our progression. 

Brilliantly positioned, great quality rock, the very best crag around. Still got some ticks to complete on the left wing. It wasn't unusual to queue for routes in the early '80s, but hardly see anyone there except on Debauchery. Shame really, because even the more run-out routes tend to be pretty safe. I guess it's just not fashionable any more.

In reply to Smelly Fox:

I didn't rate Erraid at all (the climbing, obviously the place is stunning) but I think I was unlucky to get it in quite greasy condition.

In reply to Andy Moles:

Yeah I can imagine the rock there is prone to grease, especially the ones overlooking the beach... did you try any of the crags inland? Some are quite difficult to find, but full of hidden gems.

In reply to Andy Moles:

maybe i'm blinded by childhood memories, you'd know better than me. 

The rock quality, pictures of Hen on a glorious day and Ricky Bells pysche may also have shaped my views as well....

In reply to kevin stephens:

Indeed, I meant to add : Northern Ireland - Fair Head (It's the only one I've climbed on there though!)

In reply to Mark Reeves:

For me, Cloggy has a fantastic combination of rock architecture, memorable routes and epic history. In a way the challenge of finding it in good condition adds to the experience of climbing there (it feels like a special occasion).

Having said that, I wouldn't necessarily rate it a lot higher than other major mountain crags in the UK - it's a tough and thankfully non-binary choice !

In reply to sn:

I totally understand the rock architecture and epic history.