Which guidebook(s) for Scottish Rock?

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 Martin Hore 14 Jun 2021

I'm after advice please. My current selected guidebook for Scottish rock climbing is the 1990 version by Kevin Howett (I also have the even older Hamish MacInnes one!). I'm looking to update for occasional trips north of the border.

There seem to be two current selected guide options: the SMC/SMT single volume Scottish Rock Climbs, 2005, by Andy Nisbet or the two volume Pesda Press offering by Gary Latter (North 2009 and South 2017).

Which option would those in the know advise? I'm predominantly into easier and middle grade mountain routes, with a vague ambition to tick Classic Rock in my 70's along the way.

The fact that the Gary Latter option is twice the price (two books) is not an overriding consideration if I'll get better value that way. I don't think I'll be visiting often enough though to justify the cost of all the definitive guides.

Many thanks indeed.

Martin

 alan moore 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Martin Hore:

SMC has all the. Classic routes you will ever need. 

Gary Latter has all manner of bits and pieces that will help you find something to do when the good crags are out of condition.

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 Michael Gordon 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Martin Hore:

I would say the Gary Latter books; the SMC one is too selective for my liking. The Latter books are much bigger, so if you get both there's probably 4x as much stuff overall.

 heleno 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Martin Hore:

>  the two volume Pesda Press offering by Gary Latter (North 2009 and South 2017).

Worth noting that there is a second edition of North dated 2014!

We do like the Latter guides as they are good for introduction, overview and inspiration, though we tend to use them alongside definitive SMC guides for each area if we have them. 

 Nathan Adam 14 Jun 2021
In reply to heleno:

There's an even more updated one that was released last year I think, lots of topos and some new cliffs added in since the 2014 print. 

To OP;

I think the SMC have a new selective guide due out in the next few years and will likely be in a better format than the previous. Although I have and use the SMC selective guide from time to time, I would go for the GL if looking for a more updated and user friendly book. 

 dinodinosaur 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Nathan Adam:

I have also heard the SMC are bringing out a wired guide definitive to Scottish Rock. Its the same cooperative that published Pembroke rock for the CC and lake district rock for the FRCC and I think these are both excellent guidebooks. 

Not sure when the guide is out, but apparently there have been a few pics of me submitted for consideration to be included so I doubt its too far off being done. 

http://www.wired-guides.com/index.php#wired

OP Martin Hore 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Martin Hore:

Many thanks everyone. Looks like the consensus is to go with the Latter guides since my next trip is in a week's time and I don't think, sadly, that the promised new SMC guide will be out in time.

Just a further question - the Latter guides seem to weigh in quite heavy/bulky. Are they compatible with carrying up multi-pitch routes or do people tend to take photos on their phone?

Thanks again

Martin

 robertmichaellovell Global Crag Moderator 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Martin Hore:

The new SMC guide definitely won't be out in a week!

I'd say get the current SMC guide but I'm biased, and I do recognise Gary's guides are topo rich. It's definitely good to have access to a couple of different guides as descriptions (as a general thing) aren't always bang on, I guess this applies to any guidebook (and also the routes you are doing).

You can also access a few areas worth of Scottish Rock in the Rockfax App (Glen Coe, Etive, Glen Nevis) and pretty much everything in our sport guidebook that has a topo.

 Nathan Adam 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Martin Hore:

Not one for carrying up routes in my opinion, but think fits into one of the canvas type guide holders that can be clipped to the harness. I tend to just take photos for longer climbs.

 heleno 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Nathan Adam:

> There's an even more updated one that was released last year I think, lots of topos and some new cliffs added in since the 2014 print. 

Oh no - am I out of date already? And I probably can't justify getting the new edition (unless I manage to drop my current edition into a rock pool, like I did with one before last!) 


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