Which crag to take people to teach them trad?

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 maybe_si 29 Jul 2019

I'm taking a couple of people for their first taste of trad climbing this weekend.  Both are competent indoor climbers and have done a little sport outside.

Where would you recommend for a nice and friendly easy intro into trad?  Somewhere I can easily show them how to place gear, build an anchor, rig a top rope, then do a few super easy leads.

We live in Hayfield so peak grit is easiest.  I was thinking perhaps Windgather but I've not been there in years so my memory is a little hazy.  How busy does it get at weekends these days?

Any suggestions are much appreciated!

 olddirtydoggy 29 Jul 2019
In reply to maybe_si:

Not sure the destination is really a big deal. I learnt on Wharncliffe with a reputation of bad landings at the base of the rocks and hard grades. As it's what I'm used to I find it ok and was a great place to start. As long as the pitches can be protected well and the views are good I doubt it matters too much.

 Mark Eddy 29 Jul 2019
In reply to maybe_si:

Windgather was my first experience of any form of climbing, and I loved it. That was about 25 years ago now! Plenty of easy routes to go at and anchors can be fun to construct.

Likely to be busy at weekends, but many, if not all, easy access decent crags will be during the summer.

Remember, it can be a bit breezy up there!

 mrphilipoldham 29 Jul 2019
In reply to maybe_si:

Windgather’s good but a bit soft.. take them anywhere like Wimberry  after and they’ll be having kittens! Rob’s Rocks not too bad if they don’t mind a trek up the track, and Hobson Moor has a few easier, but well protected lines to go at if they do mind the trek! Castle Naze also a good option, though belays can be tricky in places.

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 ipfreely 30 Jul 2019
In reply to maybe_si:

Burbage North is super friendly for this kind of thing, some very short easy routes, and some longer easy route too.

 Blue Straggler 30 Jul 2019
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

I'd suggest NOT Wharncliffe. Not due to landings or hard grading (indeed I know a very nice V Diff or HVD there on which I saw someone up his first lead happily) but because the terrain is not very nice for getting from one part of the crag to another, being a rubble field you have to scramble around with difficulty. Also the setting isn't very nice, with the pylons humming etc. 

Stanage October Slabs area is popular for this sort of thing. The rigging is straightforward.

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 GrahamD 30 Jul 2019
In reply to maybe_si:

Stanage popular end is popular for a very good reason.  Assuming its not a really hot day that would be my go to option. 

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 Rog Wilko 30 Jul 2019
In reply to GrahamD:

> Stanage popular end is popular for a very good reason.  Assuming its not a really hot day that would be my go to option. 

Help them get used to the delights of polished grit, too. ;O)).

 Rog Wilko 30 Jul 2019
In reply to Mark Eddy:

> Windgather was my first experience of any form of climbing, and I loved it. That was about 25 years ago now! Plenty of easy routes to go at and anchors can be fun to construct.

It is the obvious choice, and very adjacent to Hayfield. The belay anchors can be hard to find and it will be good experience for realising the need to check  the solidity of even obviously well used placements.

 Blue Straggler 30 Jul 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

> Help them get used to the delights of polished grit, too. ;O)).

And if they are looking for really low grade stuff, they will encounter the delights of "not actually any standard gear placements, you're just expected to not fall off cos it's easy"  

 nuts and bolts 30 Jul 2019
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Hobby Moor is mostly ring bolt anchors at the top so won't get much practice with building belays. 

Birchens may be a good option 

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 Mick Ward 30 Jul 2019
In reply to maybe_si:

Another vote for Windgather for their first outing. If it was good enough for Joe Brown to use for instructing, it's got to be good enough for the rest of us!

I'd explain that it's particularly awkward for sorting out belays though, so I'd just get them seconding loads of routes and putting in nuts at ground level. Next time you could take them to Burbage or Stanage popular, where belays are much easier to find/arrange.

First time out on trad - wow! How good does it get?

Mick

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 Capricorn One 30 Jul 2019
In reply to maybe_si:

Seconding Windgather, Wharncliffe and Burbage North. I'd also chuck in Harborough Rocks (easy limestone, even if a bit polished.)

 peppermill 30 Jul 2019
In reply to maybe_si:

Second that Burbage North is hard to beat. Short easy routes available that can be laced with gear just for the practice

 mrphilipoldham 30 Jul 2019
In reply to nuts and bolts:

Yep, perfect. Let’s them get to grips with the rope work without the worry about whether the gear is good or not. They’ll pick that skill up when leading anyway.

 GridNorth 30 Jul 2019
In reply to maybe_si:

I would say Stanage.  Stanage is higher.  Stanage is longer.  Stanage offers more choice.  In fact Stanage is bigger and better in every respect.  Burbage North is a great venue but IMO not much more than glorified bouldering.  Did I mention Stanage?

Al

Post edited at 17:14
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In reply to maybe_si:

I did BMC course with Adventure Expertise at Stannage but later I practiced at Burbage North with Offwidth and Buxton Coffee Lover.

Post edited at 17:19

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