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So, if we dare to dream of happier times, what route are you going to climb to celebrate...and why?
Personally I'd love to climb A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c) again, a great climb in a fantastic location at the the best climbing location in the world.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
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In reply to john arran: Good answer. I'll hold the rope for you.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
I saw your thread title and instantly thought of DoWH, then I clicked on the thread. I guess I'm not very original
I looked at it once and decided it wasn't the day. I really need to go back and do it.
In reply to Martin Haworth:
I don’t climb trad at all, so I’m normally not fussed when I look at classic trad routes as I know I’ll probably never do them. But ADoWH looks incredible.
Maybe one day, when all this blows over I can join a team as a second or something? I think it’s within my ability climbing wise but I’d never be able to get the gear placement right.
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In reply to Hooo:
I'm sure you won't be disappointed by the route, particularly the last pitch.
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Resurrection E4 6a
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Ask us again in a couple days/weeks/months and we'll see how our answers change, probably to "absolutely anything."
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In reply to Emilio Bachini:
> Ask us again in a couple days/weeks/months and we'll see how our answers change, probably to "absolutely anything."
Agreed. I'd be happy with Wyndcliff Quarry!😁
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Aardvark (HVS 5a) or Gwydrin (E1 5b) because this year I want to spend more time on localish crags.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
La Demande!
In all seriousness I was actually concentrating on sport this year for the first time in 18 years of climbing so I’d probably be keen on trying to tick my latest project at Wyndcliff quarry. Although when all said and done it will be what ever I can get on soonest!
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Bob Graham Round.
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In reply to bouldery bits:
Possibly Mupe Bay Traverse (Diff), partly because I'm likely to go first to Dorset without a climbing partner once released from lockdown. Mile of fun scrambling probably followed by swim and long coastal walk.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
It's a solo! Usually
In reply to Martin Haworth:
"Darius" on High Tor. Local crag for me, and last time I went on it I ended up in hospital with another great climbing tale! Got to go back and do it. Probably at least a couple of months away, but I'll have to start training tomorrow!
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Darkinbad the Brightdayler
Lockdown home wall training might need to go on for some time though
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
The Italian Ridge on the Matterhorn. Should have done it years ago.
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In reply to jon_gill1: ...I might change my first answer and go for La Demande, but I will need a couple of months(at least) to get fit enough.
In reply to DoctorYoghourt:
Darius (E3 5c) is a tough route, E3 in my opinion. Robert Brown (E3 5c) is easier but maybe no quite as good.
In reply to Iamgregp:
Seconding the last pitch of DoWH if you've never done any trad would be well exciting, no matter how far within your physical limit it might be.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Perhaps we should team up and get it ticked off and debate the grade!
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Funnily enough I cruised Robert Brown the weekend before I took a sixty-foot screamer off Darius. The fall happened just as my wife-to-be and her mother were walking around Matlock making wedding plans for our hitching later. Mother-in-law to be wouldn't speak to me until I got off the crutches two days before the wedding. "Are you going to stop this stupid climbing, now?"she asked.
Not a chance.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
On the subject of Dream of White Horses: Back in the eighties I went three times to Gogarth with seconds who really wanted to do it. All three bottled it. I ended up soloing it. HVS was nothing to me in those days. I want those days back.
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In reply to DoctorYoghourt:
DoWH for me too. Best climb I have ever done and I can completely see why people bottle it when you walk down to that spot of land and look back at it. Imposing is not the word.
In reply to jon_gill1: Jon, I would happily team up to do La Demande, ...E1 all the way.
In reply to Garston:
Just so. Not quite my favourite climb, but certainly in the top 50.
In reply to Martin Haworth:
I can see the future next year . . . Ukc news . . . ‘Numpties swarm on Dream of White Horses ‘. . .
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
The lion pub on tithebarn st Liverpool
a great pint of mild and fab food; pork pies with or without mustard
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Mine a will probably be a VD given how rubbish I will be if the walls remain shut.
I will probably also be injured from trying to finger board.
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In reply to AlanLittle:
Oh aye, I think oil could manage it, but that’s not to say I wouldn’t be absolutely gripped. I think that’s what attracts me to it!
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Cioch Grooves, Arrow Route, Trophy Crack on Sron na Ciche. Beautiful varied climbing - sheer quality.
Steve
Post edited at 21:18
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Great topic, the Cuillin ridge traverse is an itch I've yet to scratch, I've been on most of the ridge over the years but want a full traverse with a luxury bivy. Doing it in a day is just vulgar 😉
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
This one , Espolón Central (4c)
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In reply to freemanTom: Tom, that looks a good choice, 2 days of freedom in outstanding surroundings. Ive always wanted to do the ridge but following an accident a couple of years ago im not sure my ankleis up to it but maybe I could pace myself over 3 days,
In reply to Martin Haworth:
La Belle Helene, Grand Jorasses.
Hopefully my prospective partner / rope gun is still up for it in March 2022....
CB
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Darkinbad the Brightdayler would be nice but Lighthouse Arete would be rather more sensible!
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
The Weaver (E2 5c) but I feel like it would be more like Boo-Boo (D) by the time this is all over...
In reply to freemanTom:
> Great topic, the Cuillin ridge traverse is an itch I've yet to scratch, I've been on most of the ridge over the years but want a full traverse with a luxury bivy. Doing it in a day is just vulgar 😉
This sounds an absolute winner.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Pessimistic outlook but point five.
In reply to freemanTom:
> Great topic, the Cuillin ridge traverse is an itch I've yet to scratch, I've been on most of the ridge over the years but want a full traverse with a luxury bivy. Doing it in a day is just vulgar 😉
This is absolutely the way to do it. We enjoyed a good three course dinner. Sipping from my hip flask of Talisker, having just done the Inn Pinn in a golden evening light and gazing out to sea as the sun refused to set is one of my most memorable outdoor moments.
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In reply to joem: Well with all the reduction in industrial activity the climate should benefit and maybe Point Five Gully (V 5) will be in nick more often. I've done it twice, memorable both times.
In reply to Martin Haworth:
> Personally I'd love to climb A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c) again, a great climb in a fantastic location at the the best climbing location in the world.
Defo it'll be on the top of the list of routes to do hopefully later this year.!
In reply to Barrington:
> The Italian Ridge on the Matterhorn. Should have done it years ago.
I have a yen to do that too.
I had other targets for this year, but if this goes on there's no way I'm going to be fit enough to do them. I promised TobyA I'd take him up Masochism for a start!
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Another one for the Cuillin ridge as the last 2 years have been killed off due to bad weather.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Would be nice to get a big European classic done. This would be on my list.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
The yellow 7b+ on the Justice Panel at Ratho, assuming it's been reprieved from being stripped in the meantime. It's what's motivating my fingerboarding.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Was my goal route at the start of the year. I am still - quite unreasonably in the face of the facts - hopeful that i might still get it done in 2020.
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In reply to DoctorYoghourt:
Mr Chambers, good to hear you're still climbing, last time I saw you was almost 20 years ago upon your return to high tor after the Darius event, when you followed me up highlight, you were working and living in matlock bath at the time. Then I recall we did the thorn at beeston tor together soon afterwards, great times, hope we can tie on together soon some day. Terry.
In reply to Martin Haworth:
With any luck, on a pleasant early summer morning after a day warming up on a few crags along the Fort William to Mallaig road.
But if not, I'd settle for an early November ascent of;
Post edited at 23:58
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
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In reply to Paul Sagar:
Good to have a target to keep you motivated.
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In reply to Nathan Adam:
Torro is fantastic, best E2 I've ever done.
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In reply to DoctorYoghourt:
Trick with DOWH is NOT to let your second look at the route from the viewpoint until AFTER you’ve done it 😉.
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In reply to Anotherclimber:
> Resurrection E4 6a
This is mine too! Done left wall (and left wall direct), right wall, cemetery gates, cenotaph corner, the grond, ivy sepulchre but never got round to Resurrection. Can't wait to give it a try. May be next year now though
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After all this, I think I will try to say yes more to whatever climbing is going. Only a half day? Still worth it. Weather might not be ok? Well, it might! Only so many days...
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In reply to BrendanO:
> After all this, I think I will try to say yes more to whatever climbing is going. Only a half day? Still worth it. Weather might not be ok? Well, it might! Only so many days...
This is how I've always looked at it. It's always dry somewhere and there's always something to climb. I've climbed every weekend but one this year and that wasn't because of the weather, and I've climbed well over 100 routes this year too.
I don't know how I'm going to struggle through this lockdown lol
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Diocese at Chair Ladder. It's been on my tick list for ages. If I close my eyes, I can just imagine the sun on my face and the taste the post climb beer in the Tinners Arms or Gurnards Head beer gardens.
Post edited at 17:02
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Evasor, at Stoney. No good reason, other than the fact I might be able to get up it.
jcm
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In reply to Paul Sagar:
> Was my goal route at the start of the year. I am still - quite unreasonably in the face of the facts - hopeful that i might still get it done in 2020.
Here’s the big question though Paul, which way are you going at the top?
(Deacon, if you're reading this the same question goes to you too )
Post edited at 19:18
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In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
Right hand finish in the 90s. Stopped placing gear towards the top after attempting to fiddle in a wire. Dropped wires and went for it with hands opening and feeling more off than on. Pumpy and mega! Only team at the crag. Didn’t have tea, straight to The Heights and then a party in a small, dirty, smoked filled house that you weren’t totally able to identify subsequently for another weird chat filled-night like Beris used to be pre-yuppification. Treasured times with no cares, no money, no car, no training, no phones; just living for the next day out climbing and the next night of pints, bullshit chat, do you wanna go back to ours? and then adjusting to the dark, to the sound of feet beating pavement, street lights blurring and wandering too late home through terraces, along the Main Street and up past the Methodist chapel towards Llwyn Celyn and home. Simply magic.
Did the girdle traverse at Chair Ladder last weekend. Wanted to spend the day somewhere fantastic for the final day before lockdown. Didn’t see a soul. It has given me something to get through a strange week of caring for the few bewildered children still attending my primary school.
James
Post edited at 20:22
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In reply to Nathan Adam:
Fantastic wish list.
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In reply to Martin Haworth:
Titan's Wall (E3 5c) - it's now moved to the top of the list for various reasons.
Also, various of the new routes in the 4th Edition of Hard Rock but I know that's rather puerile....
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In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
> Here’s the big question though Paul, which way are you going at the top?
> (Deacon, if you're reading this the same question goes to you too )
Not sure, I'll decide when I'm up there
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In reply to james mann:
Great story, and not to mention a good effort too. What a route eh??
In reply to Tom Last:
That route's enough to put you off climbing for another 6 months
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In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Having survived Coronavirus, I wonder if the chossy vegetated unprotected death slab of P1 will be so appealing?
In reply to Removed User: Best to start up one of the sport routes nowadays, seems to be the norm. The second and third pitches are the main event. The top few feet seemed a bit loose when I did the route a couple of months ago.
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
Whichever way looks easier when I get there!!!!
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Close to home. Boo. Further afield. Imaculata.🤞🏻
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