What's the hardest route you've used a hex on?

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 Valkyrie1968 04 Nov 2016
We all know that hexes are the prima facie signifier of mendacity in trad climbing, a symbol of physical potential left to rot and bank holidays spent queueing for already-polished low-grade classics done many times before. "No!", some cry, "they're simply cost-effective and incredibly secure when placed, and not that much of a faff and don't make that awful a cacophony when jangling on my harness, ruining the tranquility of the setting in which they are wielded!" But, in their heart of hearts, such commentators know the truth, in spite of their inability to admit this to themselves, even in their darkest of moments - generally when the aged, many-times-rethreaded piece they've been trying to fiddle into the initial corner crack of Tryfan's Grooved Arete while still on the ground finally succumbs to gravity and falls into its depths, never to be seen again.

However, hexes have at times been used by non-punters, or at least in non-punterish ways; this much we must concede, though it pains us dearly. Curbar's Diet of Worms (E4 6a) (E4 6a), Eastern Grit II tells us, was originally climbed "with pre-placed hexes" in 1978, while the BMC's seminal Burbage, Millstone and Beyond advises the use of "anything from a medium sized [sic] hex to a small nut" on the classic sandbag that is Lawrencefield's Billy Whizz (E2 5c) (E2 5c).

The question, then, is as follows: What is the hardest route you've used a hex on?
1
 Smelly Fox 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:
Does it count if you didn't manage it free?

This...
The Nose (C2)
 GrahamD 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

The Strand is about the hardest trad route I've led, or thereabouts, and I've used a couple on that. Not hard in the grand scheme of things I know. Liquid Amber, Oesophogus and Kraken are all routes at E1 that I'm really glad I had hexes.
 SenzuBean 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

> The question, then, is as follows: What is the hardest route you've used a hex on?

Perhaps that question is not specific enough. I've used hexes on all my hardest climbs just about, but just not necessarily at the crux.
 mutt 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

My little friendly hex saved my bacon on Ocean Boulevard E35b some time ago. And pleasingly (in retrospect) a perfectly placed friend 3, below the trusty little hex, walked out and left me with certain death deck-out (probably) had not the trusty hex retained its hold in the rock when I didn't.
 Rob Parsons 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

> We all know that hexes are the prima facie signifier of mendacity in trad climbing ...

Mendacity??


In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Seconded an E4 6b that my leader placed 3 hexes on.
I know he leads/has led at least E5 and prefers hexes to cams...
 john arran 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

There always used to be a 'crucial' Hex 2 on Souls (E6) in the Leap, which I half-remember placing.
Not sure #2 counts as a real hex though.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Going back a few(!) years Tangerine Dream (E4) and Get Some In (E5) - Hexes just sat much better in the knobbly cracks,

Chris
 Hat Dude 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:
> a symbol of physical potential left to rot

See 15 & 26:30 mins in "bomber"

youtube.com/watch?v=0WlDugUn5cQ&
Post edited at 14:29
 Mick Ward 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

If I remember correctly (and I may not!) Paul said that he'd stacked the hexes on Diet of Worms - thus the rationale for pre-placement. At the time, there was certainly no cam bigger than a Friend 3 which, I think, would be way too small for the crucial placement on that break. And I doubt stacking them on lead would be a bundle of fun. But Paul will know.

I can't think of specific examples but I used hexes on E3s and E4s for years. Some people were really skilled at fiddling very small hexes (not on wire) into crozzly pockets on limestone. For a lot of 1980s E5 and E6 leaders, this was a key part of their skillsets.

Given the choice, on Swanage, I'd prefer a hex to a cam every time.

Mick
 Pedro50 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:
The Good Book (Right Side of the Folly) 5.10d. The biggest size on pitch two
Did I hear that it had fallen down?
Post edited at 14:56
 Cake 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:
Not particularly hard, but
Gumshoe (E2 5c)

At the steep bit. I think it was pretty much essential too. A cam would probably not even have sat in place.

Also,
Medusa (E1 5b)

I'd be interested if anyone has done it without hexes and preferred it that way
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

I have hexs on wire rather than on dynema, I use them all the time like big nuts.
 beardy mike 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

It's a sickness. Now then, I think if we asked the same question about tricams we'd get some quite hard routes. Proving conclusively once and for all, that tricams are indeed better than hexes.
5
 zebidee 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

On a wire they're also awesome for threading.
 deacondeacon 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Cake:

> Not particularly hard, but


> At the steep bit. I think it was pretty much essential too. A cam would probably not even have sat in place.

> Also,


> I'd be interested if anyone has done it without hexes and preferred it that way

I've done both these routes and didn't use hexes on either. I can't remember anything about either route though I'm afraid so not much help at all

 CharlieMack 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

I regularly climb with the green, yellow and red DMM torque nuts on pretty much every route i do upto E4, (as that's my onsight level) unless it's clearly a thin face, or small finger crack.
Probably tend to be less frequent on harder routes as they tend to be these style.

Especially on multipitch routes. Make for fast secure belays
 ian caton 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

They are just so much lighter than cams.

Recently failed on a route (Split Flies), because the eye of the peg had too much tat in it to get a crab through it. So sat on the manky bit of string dangling from it. I wasn't very happy about this, but right in front of me was a perfect cam placement in an undercut. Parallel sided limestone. I put the correct size Camelot into it and transferred my weight on to it. While I pondered what to do next, I could hear this clicking noise. It was the cam walking it's way out. The rock was totally solid.
OP Valkyrie1968 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Thanks for all of the replies pals. With regard to the issue of mendacity, I'd direct the gentleman to Richard Brooks's adaptation of Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, which I think is enormously illuminating from a thematic perspective.

To narrow the criteria: I suppose I'm particularly interested in the contemporary usage of hex-type (wired or threaded; the common thread here is the clanking nature) protection on free-climbed trad routes; the argumentation here relates primarily to the contemporary on the basis that hexes are a punterish alternative to cams, and so I certainly wouldn't wish to chastise Big Ron et al. for being active climbers in a period that predated the invention of SLCDs. Other things that are, admittedly, of interest but not relevance include aid climbing (ban this sick filth) and the subduing of fauna during an ascent of e.g. a sea-cliff route.
 Greasy Prusiks 04 Nov 2016
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

What a guy...
 Jamie B 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Sure I read a report of the late Brendan Murphy fiddling in a hex on Lord of the Flies (E6 6a). Assume somebody here will be able to confirm or deny this placement?
 Michael Gordon 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

I've used hexes on E3s, so pretty much my top grade. That said, I only usually carry 1 or 2. Can be pretty handy for narrowing cracks which are too big for nuts.
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

I used the wonderful light Hexentrics on just about every climb I ever led in the last ten years of my climbing, up to and including E1 (and possibly E2). Wherever I used them they were invariably as good as or better than a lazy Friend. Generally, I would try to use a Hexentric in preference to a Friend.
 Hooo 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

The hardest route I've used a hex on was Coronation Street (WW) (E1 5b) . Not that impressive, but it's probably the hardest route I've ever done. I often place hexes on routes that are at my limit, that's limestone for you.
On the other hand, the only time I've ever thought to myself "why am I lugging this bloody great lump of metal up the route with me, shall I just throw it?", it was a cam ( Dragon 6, same route, no use at all).
 Michael Gordon 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Hooo:

I think everyone thinks that when they take a no.6 cam on a route and don't manage to place it!
 dominic lee 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Jamie B:

It was a No 2 in a pocket low down on the traverse..used the same one on Great Wall. Used a No3 in a pocket above the dodgy peg on Mad Max. All small so not proper cowbells though. Haven't placed or carried one for years.
 Rob Exile Ward 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

I seem to remember a bomber Clog hex 6 just below the crux of Cemetery Gates, not hard I know but that was 45 years ago.

That was OK but I never liked them that much, an opinion reinforced when I saw someone take a ground fall from halfway up Bomb Bay, stripping all his hexes.

There used to be a hex zero (tiny brass jobby) that protected the crux step right on (the pre-free version of) Tensor very nicely.
 Jimbo C 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

A hex fits really nicely in the crux roof jamming bit on Strapiombo (E1 5b) where the upwards flare would be much less secure for a cam.
1
In reply to Valkyrie1968:
Not particularly hard but my most memorable hex placement was on Sloth. I somehow got involved in a group challenge where various members led the route then challenged the next person to lead it with them as second. I bunked off work for my attempt and gloriously placed a huge Chouinard hex in the roof crack only to find that it limited the fist jamming possibilities. After several minutes that felt like hours I launched over the top and wallowed to success. My second laughed all the way home! Thanks Roger. PS This was in 1976 and cams were the things of dreams.
Post edited at 20:17
 airborne 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Pedro50:

Yep, the flakes above the corner pitch fell down a couple of years ago and it's all a bit unstable apparently. See the pic I added to the route description on ukc logbook last year. Sad, a great route. But I didn't use any hexes on it....
 Allovesclimbin 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

On sea cliffs for sure , I guess Wall of the Worlds E56a at Swanage ( I think only a six or seven) and on the routed near by ( Ocean Boulevard!) . Also Scotish islands , such as Pabbay , Ship of Fools etc at a similar grade. Knobbly cracks really lend themselves to hexes !
 airborne 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Like many, I have a small collection of hexes in my gear cupboard that never see the light of day now. I just rely on wires and cams. No point in carrying extra gear up to the crag. But back in the day, I used them all the time. Famously, Mrs Airborne once threw my biggest hex off a Tremadog route in disgust when I couldn't describe how I'd done the crux. I think it's still in a tree.
 Goucho 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Pedro50:

> The Good Book (Right Side of the Folly) 5.10d. The biggest size on pitch two

> Did I hear that it had fallen down?

Oh how sad if it has, a really great route
 Goucho 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Jamie B:

> Sure I read a report of the late Brendan Murphy fiddling in a hex on Lord of the Flies (E6 6a). Assume somebody here will be able to confirm or deny this placement?

I got a small one (I think a No2) in on Right Wall - it fell out as I was pulling on to the girdle ledge
 Climbster 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Unfortunately, cowbells don't seem to be fashionable any more; perhaps it's all the clanging which has come to be associated with punterishness?

But, to answer the question, I try to carry what I think I'll need and I've used them on routes up to E4 so far. (I remember the green hex near the start of Wings of Unreason (E4 6a) as a bomber placement).

My partner recently bought herself a set of hexes on wire, which have the added bonus of adding another 10-15 cm of reach for hard to reach placements; so I think they still have their place on any rack.

M

 stp 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Seventh Toad at Malham - E6 6b (more like E5 imo). There's a very shallow pocket on the upper wall that takes a hex 1 sideways perfectly. It's a vital bit of gear on that route as there's nothing else on that bit of the route and I don't think any other nut would fit so well.
 LastBoyScout 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:
E1 5c, I think - can't remember if I used a small hex on an E3, or not.
Post edited at 21:28
 beardy mike 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Asher Collins:

Please. Masters Edge. Discussion over
 Cake 04 Nov 2016
In reply to Climbster:

> But, to answer the question, I try to carry what I think I'll need and I've used them on routes up to E4 so far. (I remember the green hex near the start of Wings of Unreason (E4 6a) as a bomber placement).

Yes. I change my original answer of E2 to E4, then. The hex at the bottom of Wings is definitely the most appropriate piece there.

They are a worthwhile piece of kit to own. I would much rather have some great beta before I go to a climb, however, as they will normally stay in the cupboard unless I know better.

 LeeWood 05 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

No claim for the hardest route - but I was pulled up from serious fall (around '81) by a No.11 hex on Kestrel Cracks (HVS 5a)

In those student days I had no friends to place and I believe a hex at the lip of the overhang is essential anyway. 2m after the lip I was in dire need of a friend to ram into the parallel crack - after my hand started cramping up. I had little experience of falling - so left my feet firmly in place and peeled off rotating head first. The groove below the overhang extends outwards and I might not be here to tell the tale except for my mate on belay jumping down down a 2m bank - to take in some slack. I was not wearing a helmet and came to a stop a foot from the rock.

So - can anyone else report on a hex saving their life - or at least holding a good fall ??
 andi turner 05 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

The one which always springs to mind for me is Rectum Rift (E3 6b) at Almscliffe because it's an essential runner: a pocket in the roof beside the crux into which you key in the hex, don't think you could do it with anything else!

I was climbing with Simon Nadin last week (name drop ;p) and he was using hexes on wires with great abandon.

In all fairness, I don't think anything fits better in crozzly limestone breaks.
In reply to Valkyrie1968:
Really glad to see the hex getting some love, it is too often an object of derision. I love them for Pembrokeshire limestone rugged cracks. I nearly always carry 5 of them and also take the really big purple one when I can see from the ground that I might use it, as I did on deranged (e2) at st govan's last week.

I had one partner who seemed to think they were not cool and asked me why I was taking them on hangover 77 (e1), I think I placed 5 of them and remember thinking that if I was a bit bolder, and had a few duplicates I could have safely lead the whole pitch just on hexs.

 zimpara 05 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Not me, but my partner lead an E1 with ONLY hexes. I believe he placed just one! Lol
 uphillnow 05 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:
I did Medusa again with my son a little while back and whilst racking up mentioned hexes to him. He wasn't complimentary about them at all. When I did it (without) I recall thinking that they would have been more secure in the middle section than the friends I placed.
Post edited at 16:41
 Cake 05 Nov 2016
In reply to uphillnow:
Yeah, there's some pretty dirty limestone in that crack
 alasdair19 06 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

the grand wall in squamish I was never keen on carrying double sets of camelots so used them all over squamish and yosemite.

I like placing them from rests so when things get desperate for me later I can stuff a cam in. have always used them at gogarth too.
 jondo 06 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

f6c (about E2 6A). but the placement was at a section where you could rest and play around with it.
on limestone i find them almost useless where tricams are perfect.
 DDDD 06 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Still use hexes on the odd easy trad route on Grit as they're fab. Still have the hex 11 that I used on Cosmopolitan in Cheedale when it used to be E6 6b - still on the original cord, must change that! Also used two or three on Lord on the Cromlech back in '92 - top one used to be bomber.
In reply to Valkyrie1968: My most memorable route with regards to hexes has to be Gully of the Gods (VI 6) this last Winter. Thankfully we were climbing on my partner's suitably comprehensive rack and the only gear on an exceptionally thin and extremely chossy first pitch was EIGHT medium and largerish hexes.
1
 Hat Dude 07 Nov 2016
In reply to Jamie B:

> Sure I read a report of the late Brendan Murphy fiddling in a hex on Lord of the Flies (E6 6a). Assume somebody here will be able to confirm or deny this placement?

Further up I posted a link to the Rock Athlete film of Ron's 1st ascent; I'm pretty certain he places two
 French Erick 07 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears (VIII 8)
Rarely go out without in winter, never to be seen on my summer rack.
1
 mike barnard 07 Nov 2016
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

> Gully of the Gods (VI 6) EIGHT medium and largerish hexes.

I've noted that down, thanks!
 ChrisBrooke 07 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

I have a couple of hexes on wire in my bag. Don't often go on my harness unless they look like them might come in handy from the base of the route.
Like some others, Wings of Unreason would be my 'hardest route' I placed a hex on. Didn't get one in on Billy Whizz, but wished I had a narrow cam to fit in some of the old peg scars...
I think The Sloth (above the roof) and Saul's Crack (again, protecting the steep bit) at the Roaches are good routes to carry a whopping hex on
In reply to mike barnard:
A much better option is probably to wait until the bottom pitch is fully iced up!

I saw photos from two weeks after our ascent and it looked a good grade or more easier...
 mike barnard 07 Nov 2016
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Ah OK. Someone else did tell me to take a good few hexes. Whenever I get around to it..
 bpmclimb 07 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

> The question, then, is as follows: What is the hardest route you've used a hex on?

Bulging Flies (top end) E2 5c, Fly Wall, Wintour's Leap. Medium/large hexes and cams (3 or 4 of each) on the second pitch.
 wercat 07 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Didn't realize there were so many people resorting to witchcraft to up the grade. Perhaps there is hope for me after all
 Vdiff Dave 07 Nov 2016
In reply to bpmclimb:

> Medium/large hexes and cams (3 or 4 of each)

Does it count as using hexes if you've also used cams? That's a bit like Linda Mccartney eating a burger, on the basis that most of it wasn't meat'
1
 Vdiff Dave 07 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Helfenstein's Struggle is easily the hardest climb I've ever done, and I used hexes on that, but I don't know if it was only so hard because the hexes were stuck in the crux.
 Puppythedog 07 Nov 2016
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Paperclip Slab E3 5c, an E2 at Goblin Coombe and most climbs I've been on. Love hexes, always take my smaller hexes on wires and prefer them and tri cams to cams on the whole.
 Misha 09 Nov 2016
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
Yeah I sometimes have a double rack of hexes in winter these days! That's winter though. In summer the hexes stay in the box with all the other winter kit. Sometimes though I wish I was carrying a hex to help with removing stubborn bits of gear.
 brianjcooper 09 Nov 2016
In reply to Mick Ward:

> If I remember correctly (and I may not!) Paul said that he'd stacked the hexes >

Gosh! Stacking hexes brings back memories. I've even successfully 'oppose' placed them too.

I may not be not a hard climber, just a canny one.
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
> My most memorable route with regards to hexes has to be Gully of the Gods this last Winter.

I was thinking why has no-one mentioned winter climbing. One of my hardest winter leads was the offwith crack on Beinn Eighe's Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7). Fortunately a friend had done it not long before so I went armed with a Friend 3.5, Friend 4, Rockcentric 8 and Rockcentric 9 - and place all 4 and not much else!
Post edited at 14:16

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