What's the best multi-pitch V.Diff in Polldubh?

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 DizzyVizion 20 Aug 2019

Will be going to do The Gutter this Sunday with 3 others for our first multi-pitch route. But if the route is busy, are there any other multi-pitch climbs in the area you could recommend? Would prefer a V.Diff really. Thanks

Post edited at 13:19
 skog 20 Aug 2019
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Heatwave, possibly.

I think the guidebook might give it Severe, but if you use the other starting ramp on the first pitch then cross over, as per the original route description, it's just V Diff.

 Mark Bull 20 Aug 2019
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Right Wall - Styx Buttress (VD) is near the Gutter and can be done as one long or two short pitches. 

 timparkin 20 Aug 2019
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Pinnacle Ridge is a multi pitch Severe but the hard stuff is all in the first few meters in my opinion (and probably the first three or four moves really). The gear is obvious but essential to get in those first few metres though as you skip one and it's a possible groundfall. If you think of it as a V0 highball slab into a multi pitch VDiff. Don't if it's wet though as it's very polished at the start. Here's a video if you want to check the first bit out. 

youtube.com/watch?v=RYaJYgUgae8&t=47

Go left for the last pitch, not over the slab like the climber in this picture

Pinnacle Ridge (S)#photos&gid=1&pid=4

p.s. I like Styx Right Wall too.. 

Post edited at 15:10
Removed User 20 Aug 2019
In reply to timparkin:

Pinnacle Ridge is also very polished. Mind you after Traprain...

I thought The Gutter was only diff?

I can think of a few good multi pitch severes and vs's but struggle to think of good multi pitch V. Diffs.

 skog 20 Aug 2019
In reply to Removed User:

Really? I think Heatwave is pretty sensational for a crag route of the grade; the traverse pitch, which is pretty much just scrambling, is burned into my memory from when I was a kid.

 Simon Caldwell 20 Aug 2019
In reply to skog:

Heatwave has been upgraded to Severe 

 skog 20 Aug 2019
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Heatwave was originally a V Diff that followed the line of least resistance up the buttress.

I'm not sure why, but the route description was amended to straighten out the first pitch, making it harder, so the grade was bumped up to Severe - but the original start is still there and quite climbable at V Diff, it isn't normal grade creep/reclassification.

The original line, for its first pitch, goes to about halfway up the upper of the two grooves; you then have to step down (a bit awkwardly) to the groove below and finish up that (the new description has you carry on up this groove).

After that it's as per the current guidebook description.

OP DizzyVizion 20 Aug 2019
In reply to skog:

Hi skog. Heatwave looks excellent, and is perhaps only a soft severe? (I hate calling anything in climbing soft). Will definitely note this one for Sunday. Thank you

 Cam Forrest 20 Aug 2019
In reply to skog:

Agreed. I am the person responsible for traumatising Skog, and I never agreed with changing the description from Ian Clough’s original line of least resistance. Used to be a great solo after work.

OP DizzyVizion 20 Aug 2019
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Thanks Simon. A 2 star route - it looks good. A bit shorter than I would like but beggars can't be choosers if other routes are busy so I'll keep a note of this one for sure. At 30m though, do you know if it's considered a 2 pitch climb? Sorry, my brother has the SMC guidebook at his house at the moment so I'm relying on the interwebs for data.

OP DizzyVizion 20 Aug 2019
In reply to Mark Bull:

Thanks Mark. A 2 star route - this looks another very decent suggestion. And 50m is a good length too so this could be a likely alternative. Much appreciated

 skog 20 Aug 2019
In reply to DizzyVizion:

> Heatwave looks excellent, and is perhaps only a soft severe?

Done by the current guidebook description, the first pitch contains a bit of fairly solid Severe - although it's only a short part and only the first pitch - if you're normally fine on single pitch severe you should be OK (as long as the rock is dry).

Done by the original line, it isn't Severe at all.

Post edited at 16:25
OP DizzyVizion 20 Aug 2019
In reply to timparkin:

Ah, thanks Tim - this looks a good challenging route indeed. Great footage by the way. How grippy would you say the rock is in Polldubh compared to places like Auchinstarry and Traprain Law?

Post edited at 16:27
OP DizzyVizion 20 Aug 2019
In reply to Removed User:

Thanks Eric. The Gutter is only diff, but I think we could comfortably stretch to a v.diff or severe('ish) if it's busy. We're meeting up with an old friend for this and also taking along a 14 year old newcomer (my nephew), so kind of playing it safe for those reasons But saying that, we are all pretty adventurous and capable of taking on tougher stuff.

So you say Pinnacle Ridge is a bit polished? Think we may avoid it then if there's to be any chance of rain. I say that now, but knowing my brother we could still start up it in a monsoon. He's got a few grades over me you see and likes to push things on, which usually makes for interesting days out.

OP DizzyVizion 20 Aug 2019
In reply to skog:

Thanks skog. I don't mind short bursts of severe myself - I'd be quite comfortable leading that kind of pitch. But my brother may well take the first pitch so I don't think it will be an issue at all... unless it's pissing it down of course.

 Simon Caldwell 20 Aug 2019
In reply to DizzyVizion:

> At 30m though, do you know if it's considered a 2 pitch climb?

I've seen it done as both one and two pitches. It does weave around a bit so if you try as one pitch and place too much gear (especially with a single rope) then rope drag can be a problem. A belay before the final awkward corner could also provide moral support for the leader!

Confession: I've not actually done it, just the parent route, but that's the same after the start.

Removed User 20 Aug 2019
In reply to DizzyVizion:

> Thanks Eric. The Gutter is only diff, but I think we could comfortably stretch to a v.diff or severe('ish) if it's busy. We're meeting up with an old friend for this and also taking along a 14 year old newcomer (my nephew), so kind of playing it safe for those reasons But saying that, we are all pretty adventurous and capable of taking on tougher stuff.

> So you say Pinnacle Ridge is a bit polished? Think we may avoid it then if there's to be any chance of rain. I say that now, but knowing my brother we could still start up it in a monsoon. He's got a few grades over me you see and likes to push things on, which usually makes for interesting days out.


Sounds good. The best thing to do at Polldubh is to link the routes so you gradually work your way up the hill. That way you can easily get 1000 ft of climbing into a single day.

If you're feeling brave Secretary's butress is an excellent severe and Autobahn Ausfahrt is a great multi pitch mvs high above the glen which I don't remember being at all hard.

 petestack 20 Aug 2019
In reply to Removed User:

> and Autobahn Ausfahrt is a great multi pitch mvs high above the glen which I don't remember being at all hard.

Last time I did Autobahnausfahrt (a few years ago now), the lower pitches were both dirtier and harder than I remembered from my first time (a solo) and I didn't particularly enjoy them even on a rope. The best bit is the common ground with Enigma on the top tier, which is much cleaner, but the first pitch of that is still HS, or VS taken direct.

1
 Mark Bull 20 Aug 2019
In reply to petestack:

It’s been a long time since I did it but I recall a couple of very run-out sections on Autobahnausfahrt. It’s also quite long for a relatively inexperienced team of 4 so I wouldn’t  recommend it to the OP either. 

Post edited at 18:31
 Mike-W-99 20 Aug 2019
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Take a midge net, preferably two (each).

 timparkin 20 Aug 2019
In reply to DizzyVizion:

I'm afraid I'm only a start in outdoor climbing so Polldubh and Kingussie are all I know. It's pretty grippy stuff I'd say though although things like Gutter, Pinnacle, Right wall have edges in most places so you should be able to do it in Tricouni's if you were inclined. 

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/s2048x2048/67403895_71104...

 Nathan Adam 21 Aug 2019
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Styx Right Wall is lovely and clean, two 25m pitches with a good stance half way. Secretaries Direct is good but harder although you could start from the ledge above the first pitch and still get two pitches in. Spike Wall is also another fine route at VDiff, but pretty committing going past the spike itself and maybe warrants Severe. 

Agree the best bet is to start low down and work your way up via different crags for best effect. 

OP DizzyVizion 23 Aug 2019
In reply to Nathan Adam:

Thanks Nathan, will have a look at Styx Right - sounds really good


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