Very good, nice and long summer alpine route?

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 deacondeacon 30 Jan 2019

Can I get some ideas please? I'm sure there's plenty of threads on this but couldn't really find one.

It's my 40th this year and I've never climbed a long route. Looking for something in Europe, any grade really but ideally vdiff-VS, must be really good, and ideally not one where there'll be a train of people queuing all the way up it. I like the idea of staying in a refugio/dom after topping out but this isn't critical. There is likely to be a few pairs of us all at different levels so would be good if its in an area with plenty of other stuff too.

 

I've always fancied the North face of triglav after walking up it a few years ago, but no reason other than it's the only big mountain I've been up. Lol

 snoop6060 30 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

You are 40? Haha. 

Les Enfants de la Dalle (6a+) ?

Not done as I generally get pretty bored after 10 pitches. 7 is my sweet spot. Meant to be good. And it's defo long. 

OP deacondeacon 30 Jan 2019
In reply to snoop6060:

Oi not yet. I'm 40 in October but don't want to get cold on a route. You coming? 

 snoop6060 30 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Aye if I can bail after pitch 10! The picos probably has lots of adventures for summer too. Nice round there. 

Post edited at 19:36
 climber34neil 30 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

North Face , cassin route on piz badile ?

5
 McHeath 30 Jan 2019
In reply to climber34neil:

> North Face , cassin route on piz badile ?

Maybe not a good choice as a first long alpine route, the north ridge of the Badile would probably be a better option (although sometimes very overrun). The NE face is basically a huge funnel and can turn into a trap very quickly if a thunderstorm hits; you need to be fast and well-rehearsed as a team.

I'm not clear on what the OP is looking for - multi-pitch sport/plaisir, or a classical trad/alpine route? (would frozen snowfields, glaciers etc. be a problem?)

 danm 30 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Ailefroide might be an option. Proper alpine rock routes if the weather is good and you feel adventurous, and routes up to 15 pitches long within walking distance from the campsite. Lots of bouldering and single pitch sport routes, and some fantastic mountain scenery and walking. If the granite slabs all get a bit too much, nip down the valley for loads of quality limestone for a change.

 Dave Cundy 31 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

How about the South Ridge on the Salbitschen (just North of Andermatt)?  It's supposed to be a fantastic long VS and starts fairly near to a hut.  Might be a bit busy for your taste but many 3 star routes will be.

Or do something on the slabs at La Berade ?

There's an excellent 450m VS/HVS on the NW Ridge of the Cima della Madonna, in the Dolomites.  Two friends did it twenty years ago and were well chuffed with it.

I've been to the bottom of the N ridge of the Badile and it looks excellent.  Belays every 30m apparently,  However, getting there will be a bit of a faff, after the trails to it from Bondo were closed, following the massive rockfall on the Cengalo last August. Might be better to do that in a year or two, once a new trail has been established.

Although thinking about it, if you haven't done big long routes before, you may want routes which aren't too difficult to follow (navigation wise) and aren't too difficult to get off, once you're at the top.  It ain't going to much fun celebrating your big 4 0 while shivering the night away on a ledge half way down !

 

My mate Christian wanted to celebrate his big 4 0 in the Time Machine passage in a cave in S. Wales (Ogof Daren Cilau).  That was a bit of an epic because we had all told our partners that it was just a five hour trip.  It was actually 5 hrs each way!  We did enjoy the bubbly in teh Time Machibe though.  I hope your birthday trip is as memorable !

Post edited at 00:08
 Misha 31 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Westgrat on the Salbitschijen. E1 if the cruxes are frigged. About 30 pitches, several abseils, a pendulum, an aid pitch (goes free at trad 6a/b), generally good rock and gear and a fairly straightforward walk off the top (often snowy but don't really need big boots). Nice hut to stay at or, better in some ways, a nice bivvy hut right below the start.

9
 d_b 31 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

My experience with large routes in the Julian Alps involved large quantities of loose rock and very, very long runouts.  I don't know what the N face of Triglav is like but I suggest staying off Spik unless you want to stay forever young.

 Cellinski 31 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

The aid pitch on Salbit Westgrat is a tough slabby, holdless and slippery affair if climbed free, the grade is at least 7a. No problem with aid on the bolts, though.

 beardy mike 31 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

There's stackloads of stuff for you to do in the Dolomites, more concentrated at the trad alpine end of the spectrum for sure, but many of the harder routes have endless amounts of fixed gear. A distinct advantage for a shorter hit is the lower altitude means you mostly don't have to deal with snow and ice. Rock quality is variable for sure but you can pick and choose your routes. As an example in the grade range you are talking about you could look at the Fedele or Dibona routes on the NW face of Pordoi, 750m long and around HS, MVS. There are loads of routes at tha grade around 450m long. Or if you want to push a bit harder there's the south face of Marmolada. There's the Tomasson which is VS or Don Quxiote and Schwalbenswanz at around Mild E1, all on water worn calcarious limestone.

 tjekel 31 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Some austian stuff:

https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/tour/bilder/steinerweg_dach...

Hut close to the summit.

Hochkönig, Dientnerweg: https://bergstille.de/2011/hochkoenig-dientner-weg/

Hut on the summit.

 

 

 d_b 31 Jan 2019
In reply to d_b:

I realise that read as too negative.  Not everything in the Julian Alps is horrifying.  There is a great 300m severe on Mala Mostrovka for example.  North Arête (Severni raz) (IV-)

Post edited at 20:22
 john arran 31 Jan 2019
In reply to snoop6060:

> You are 40? Haha. 

> Les Enfants de la Dalle (6a+) ?

> Not done as I generally get pretty bored after 10 pitches. 7 is my sweet spot. Meant to be good. And it's defo long. 

I can attest to it being good. Only 1 pitch above 5c+ and that's a short section of 6a+ that's not that bad really and easy to 'french free' past if needed. You'll need to move sweetly though as it's around 25 pitches long, but it's well bolted, so as long as you're happy doing a lot of slabby climbing on small edges - with a bit of smearing thrown in for good measure - you should be fine.

 Red Rover 31 Jan 2019
 Red Rover 31 Jan 2019
In reply to Red Rover:

P.S. Compared to the alps, everything in norway is deserted. Its rare to meet other climbing teams on alpine route apart from the few famous mountains. You can have a whole range to yourself never mind the route.

 mark hounslea 31 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Don Quixote is a major undertaking which needs a high level of commitment and speed. 27 pitches, 3 abbs and a tricky descent down a glacier and then up to the last cable car which leaves at 4.00pm. The crux pitch 25 is harder then E1.

not a good choice for  a first alpine route

 

 d_b 31 Jan 2019
In reply to Red Rover:

I remember doing a route on Bispen.  Supposedly a popular mountain.  The last entry in the summit book was over a week earlier and the weather had been great.

 Babika 31 Jan 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Studlgrat Ridge on the Gross Glockner? 

Fabulous route AD+ and you can start and end at a different hut. Unlikely to be crowded either - I never met another team. 

Post edited at 22:58
OP deacondeacon 05 Feb 2019

Thanks a lot for all the ideas, time to do a bit of research  

 

 gooberman-hill 05 Feb 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

A couple of ideas:

1. Anything in the Alpes Maritimes. Particular favourites of mine are (i) the Arete Sud of the Argentera (from the Remondino hut - AD-, F3c). Beautiful long scrambly climb with intermittent pitches to the top of the highest mountain in the Alpes Maritimes, and (ii) the Eperon Demange  on the Cougarde (Eperon Demenge (D+)). Probably about HVS, and 13 pitches. The Cougourde hut at the base is lovely too.

2. Arolla. The Douvres Blanches Ridge (SW Ridge of the Douvres Blanches) - nice combination of slabs and ridge with the crux near the top. (Southwest Ridge (D))

Steve 

 jezzah 06 Feb 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Go to the Dolomites and have fun. There is masses of stuff to be done at the VDiff - VS range. Oh and the food and drink is also good in Italy too. Win/ Win. Happy Days!

Get a copy of the Rockfax guide to Dolomites and work your way through the classics that they have listed.


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