UKH

I'm making a list of trad traverses I want to try.

Does anyone have any suggestions of where to go and what to climb for a good trad traverse adventure? (preferably in England and Wales) 

Cheers.

2 I really want to do

The Angel's Girdle (VS 5a)

Exposure Explosion (HVS 5a)

Maybe Chee Tor Girdle and North West Girdle at Almscliff. Also Chameleon at Whitestonecliffe. Though on the latter theres a pitch of A1 unless you climb hard.

Journey to Ixtlan, Carn Gowla

The Lord of the Rings on Scafell looks like a big trad traverse adventure! 

I'm not a great fan of traversing but I thought Heart of Darkness at Mowing Word was pretty good. Just don't do it first thing in the morning when it may be damp.

Alcasan is much better than you'd expect.  Pigs on the Wing and Heart of Darkness / New Morning are good adventures in great situations.  The Super Indirect on Plum Buttress is brilliant.  Quite enjoyed some grit traverses years ago though seem to remember it was an acquired skill set - Mordaunt and Lichen were really good fun and very rounded....

Dream of White Horses.

Tudor Rose and Debauchery are largely traverses.  There is also a great HVS traverse at Carreg y Barcud whose name escapes me.

There is also an Extreme Girdle ticklist on this site.

The great Valerio at carreg y barcud

Quartz Icicle into dream at wen zawn

The arches and the tube at Back Bowden.

Boulder Ruckle Girdles -to be avoided.

White Ghyll Traverse, Raven Crag Girdle, Girdle of Gimmer/Ashen Traverse, Gimmer High Girdle, Raven Girdle, East Raven Girdle, Bowfell Buttress Girdle and we haven't even left Langdale yet! All of them are OK, some are very good days out.

Of note that I've done further afield North West Girdle and Chee Tor Girdle stand out. Alcasan was too hard free for me and the bit of aid we used detracted a little. And Debauchery - wonderful. I'll have a think and see if I can come up with more. Happy traversing.

The Great Valerio?

Amazed nobody has yet mentioned the traverse to end all traverses, the longest route in the UK, the El Capitan of Southern England...

Wonderland (E1 5c)

67 pitches!!

Another slightly esoteric one was Cygnus X1 at Chapel Head.   It included a brilliant bit of downclimbing.

Dont think its as long as Ron's Girdle Traverse at Stanage! ☺

Astral Stroll (E1 5b)In reply to JB1109:

Lots of good suggestions above. I would add:

Astral Stroll (E1 5b) (one of the best multi pitch E1s I’ve done)

The Umbrella Girdle (E2 5c) (the ultimate Wintour’s shufflefest)

Vulture Squadron (E3 6a) (not as much sideways action but still worthwhile)

Delicatessen (E2 5c) (perhaps not as good as Debauchery but has to be done)

Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a) (single pitch but perfect on a calm sea, some brave souls DWS it)

Couple of really long ones on Stackpole (haven’t done, look a bit monotonous but all traverses are pointless at the end of the day!)

The Path to Rome (E3 5c) (superb, even though the traverse is only one (very long) pitch, and more solid than Knowing Her etc which is mentioned above - though that one is probably the ultimate in pointless sideways shuffling and not to be missed for a competent team!)

Trunk Line (E4 5c) (very good and not to be underestimated AKA sandbag at E3)

The Horizon (E4 5c) (haven’t done it but it’s high on the list!)

Main Wall (E2 5b) (haven’t done it but looks good and heard good feedback on it)

Lots of sideways shuffling at Avon... the ultimate being the Main Wall traverse (haven’t done it).

Similarly esoteric is the Cromlech traverse (haven’t done it but the log book descriptions are worth a look!). 

North West Girdle (E1 5b) (something different on the grit)

Voyage of Faith (E3 5c) (as the name suggests!)

There’s also an HVS traverse on Mingulay, can’t remember the name but meant to be good (haven’t done)

The Prozac Link (E4 5c) (haven’t done but looks amazing!)

Most of these are pretty serious, to be done by a team where both people are comfortable at the grade etc etc. For a less serious undertaking (on a calm sea and a suitable tide), though still not to be underestimated, how about No match for climb id:35091 - with a number of extensions available which increase the commitment. And if you find that too easy, there’s The Wizard of Oz (7b S1) (with possible extensions)

Why climb up when you can shuffle sideways?

#deathroute...

Of the ones I've done everything on this list is good most of which have already been mentioned:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2598

In addition ones that I can remember that where good are:

Herford's Girdle Traverse (VS 4b) good grit at a low grade, best soloed.

The Ravenstones Stomach Traverse (none)  classic of its kind, remember basically campusing across the break of Over the Moors before swinging feet first into the break at the beginning, madness on solo but then fairly secure crawling in most places. Is some video footage of Shane and John who posts here about 2 minutes into this video https://m.epictv.com/media/podcast/esoterica-climbing-the-peak-districts-we... doing it.

Lichen (E3 5c) another classic grit girdle though the best pitch is the last which can be done on it's own right. Has a massive several inch size old machine nut you can use as gear! (Or at least it did when I did it)

Pendulum (HVS 5a) classic stoney shuffling.

Not full on traverse all the way, but plenty of it.

Twinkler (HVS 5a)

Barad next door looks good too Barad (E1 5b)

In fact most of the routes on Trwyn Llwyd seem to fit the bill, just not sure what the rest are actually like.

The Equator 

Pacific Rim.

Ive done neither but they are the best named girdles in the South West.

Peeping Tom at Baggey is good though.

Erm, just had a look at your profile, if it is a fair reflection of your experience, you'll be wanting to do a fair bit more trad climbing before going for what I suggested (or even anything else suggested so far). Good to have aims and ideas for the future though.

Except its actually a terrible route. No line and hardly any good climbing - avoid! 

Chee tor girdle is good. All the rising traverses on High Tor are ace. 

Not sure if there’s a winter ascent yet but I can recommend The Wizard of Oz at Berry Head (bird restrictions apply). Still on the wish list. 
Bill

Promontory Traverse (E1 5b)

Gallop Step (HVS 5a)

Gallop step HVS 5a not far from the camp site and the base of Snowdon on the Watkins side.

If you’re inclined to venture north of the border then Voyage of the Beagle (Dubh Loch) and The Missing Link (Shelterstone) both have amazing traverse pitches. 

I’ve not done them but I suspect the girdle traverses on Carreg y Barcud are rather good fun (anyone that’s done them who can comment?), and there’s the big one on Whitestone Cliff that sounds good too. 

I’m sure it goes without saying but make sure you have a competent second for a lot of these routes, and/or carry a few leaver biners and make sure the second knows how to rig a backrope when required!

The girdle Traverse on Gogarth main cliff

Creeping Lemma (E2 5c)

Pendulum (HVS 5a)

Miners' Girdle (VS 4c)

or go visit the Dolomites!

Is there so much choss? 

My Girdle is Killing Me (E4 6a)

Go and do the above.....An unknown classic on this wonder crag.

Well my climbing partner hasn’t climbed since and it was a year and a half ago

Yea I thought that - just about to key in a tasty e1 5b trad then clocked the pic and thought . . .maybe not just yet.  Food for thought on a blind forum.  

Ambition and dreams of the future are ok though. 

Rainbow Bridge (7a+) has more good climbing than most of the other traverses put together, plus no gear faff. I'd like to do the full The Wizard of Oz (7b S1) though in reality that seems to have more of the character of a link-up, with some walky bits.

Zodiac at St Govans isn't as long as it used to be, but several pitches still exist.

Underneath the Arches, obviously, also The Labyrinth (now officially the longest traverse in Pembroke at 300m).

Hey JB1109 - and while we’re on the subject of trad traverses.  

Protecting the second is much more skilled than just protecting yourself because unlike just going upwards the second is on offer too.  Also if they swing off it can be a right old malarkey to get them back on the rock.  Read up on it during the Christmas hols.  Enjoy 

Durdle Door to Mupe Bay, Dorset. Approximately 1 mile. About V Diff to VS depending on state of the tide, and exit route used. A fun expedition on generally sound rock.

Alcasan (E2 5c)

Classic Stoney experience.

What about Suicide Wall (E1 5c) at  Bosigran and Carnivore (E2 5c) at  Creag a' Bhancair

Steve

Another one from Scotland I'm afraid, but it should not be absent from the list developing on this thread: Spaced Out Rockers On The Road To Oblivion (E4 5c)

Girdle Traverse Of The Lower Amphitheatre Wall (E1 5b) Craig Yr Ysfa

Anyone done this route?

Think I might have done it but I cant remember much as it would be 40 years ago. It was in Ron James' guide book. Think we did Mur y Niwl too.

Are you thinking of Barad (E1 5b)at Trwyn Llyd? 

Great route - more of a shallow diagonal than a horizontal traverse - and better for it! 

The Appian Way (E2 5c)

"Awopbabaloobopawambamboom" at Symonds Yat.

You could try and resurrect "The Early Morning Traverse" at Wintours Leap

Not strictly trad but surely magical mystery tour at Berry head has to be up there as one of the best DWS adventures in the country.

The Angel’s Girdle at Wintour’s Leap is excellent. I quite enjoyed The Burning Giraffe there too, although you need to bear in mind that he first pitch has fallen down - there was a doable groove to the right of the old first pitch if I remember correctly. 
 

I also enjoyed Pink Wall Traverse at Avon. Bear in mind that the last pitch has a stretch which may require large cams to protect (unless you downclimb a bit and traverse along).

Henry Price halls of residence at Leeds University. 4 panels of fingery gritstone, stays dry and lit up at night. Super classic! 

I really enjoyed Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird (okay P1 isn't a traverse but who doesn't love a great corner....) Not sure if anyone else has suggested Riders on the Storm Pembroke Classic and significantly friendlier than Pigs on the Wind if the rumours at true

Pigs on the Wing (HVS 5a) looks utterly amazing. One of my regrets. Once I'd seen people on it, I vowed to return to do, but somehow - the way life goes - I never got back to Pembrokeshire ..

jcw - of this parish. First ascent.

Mick

Anyone done it recently... totally baffled by the 4th pitch.. Top route on a great crag. Need to go back again sometime and try it again

What about Malhams Right Wing Girdle. It used to be an absolute classic when it was HVS, it must be fantastic now it’s E2.

Don't think anyone has mentioned Traverse of the Gods, Swanage. Variety from scrambling, abs/pendulum, bits of VS/HVS. Should always be ended with the swim and hauling gear and clothes across on rope.

Another vote for the fun Mupe Bay Traverse. 

Valley Crossings (D) if at a loss and wanting something different and very easy on the Cromlech (but exposed in places). May not be in recent guides. 

In reply to JB1109:

This traverse might be what you are looking for. It was great fun but pretty challenging in places- a journey from beginning to end.

The Hunting of the Snarg (HVS 5c) Willapark Cliff

Miner’s Girdle on Miner’s Crag in Newlands. Over 1000ft, and one pitch is : Ab’ off the spike and pendulum into the holly tree!

enjoy!

And of course String of Pearls (E1 5b) at  Bosigran. Did it as a party of maybe 10 or so on a Whit bank holiday weekend as the main event of my stag do.

Unfortunately I can't recall much about it. I think it might have been quite good...

I did pigs on the wing at pembroke with little prior knowledge besides the rockfax stars and a glance at the description. 

Set off thinking we'd link the 2 traverse pitches (as it was late both in the day and the season, and we wanted dinner in the pub before 9pm), this became apparent as a mistake fairly quickly. Escape is only by climbing the route, or reversing it. Set up belay and my second, and climbing equal partner on the day got to the mid traverse belay and simply stated that he felt it best I lead the second pitch too. 

We finished the climb by learning holds braille as it was dark by the time we made the "top". 

For HVS it goes places, and is possibly the finest through ordeal traverse I have achieved in the uk. 

For a lower grade offering,  Right angle at gurnard head is a fair route which I don't think has been mentioned so far

I think the new climbing on the Wizard of Oz is the bit through the Barrel, which avoids the slightly dodgy climb out at the end of Rainbow Bridge. The continuation is well worth doing despite some walking as you say. I’ve done the link up apart from the bit through the Barrel. It possibly hadn’t been done yet or else I wasn’t feeling the force...

Talking of Rainbow traverses... The Rainbow of Recalcitrance (E6 6b)

Is the correct spelling Awopbopalubop Awambamboom (VS 4c), or is it up to personal interpretation?

Also at Symonds Yat you can circumnavigate the pinnacle at about severe. A little bit less green now after YatFest. 

Dolomites it is: look at Micheluzzi, Ciavazzes; Alvera, Averau; Tissi, Torre Venezia for easier but decidedly airy stuff. 

I have seen a couple of recommendations for this. Clearly from folks who have not climbed it. 

Out of the 16 guide book pitches, 2 are good, the first and the last. 

It is probably wiser to climb the parent routes of these pitches then simulate the other 14 by rolling around in tick infested moss and brambles. 

Yes, you're correct. I was doing it from my (faulty) memory.

How safe is the pinnacle circumnavigation ? Last time I looked there was a lot of dodgy choss on the SW aspect.

Not Barad, which is also good. I think someone got it up thread.  The Great Valerio.

Have we had the rainy day go to of the Hyldrem traverse yet ?

Pigs looks amazing! One day... Though one when I’m feeling more E1 than a VS. Although Heart of Darkness is higher is the list! 

Sorry to be pedantic - its Trwyn Llwyd, not Trwyn Llyd. It means Grey Nose, I believe.

Fantastic cliffs, have look at Mur Cenhinen and Cordelia on your next visit.

I always liked the description of Gallop Step on Clogwyn Y Bustach because of its unique nature.

Such a British climbing thread! Not one person questioning the yearn to go sideways 😂 Got immediately hooked into trad... never willingly done a girdle traverse yet. Have fun though!

Two of my all time favourites! EE is incredible!! And second pitch of angels girdle is 'scary' (exhilarating) on both lead and second!

You won't be disappointed on either!

You have definatly sold them well 😁. 

Will definatly get on them both this year 

When many of our climbs are below even 30m IMHO its a joy to be able to climb for long distances without tying on two ropes, belaying after short distance, taking in masses of spare rope, untying, descending, moving, retying etc ad infinitum.

That's interesting; Is it really a British eccentricity or is it just more suitable to areas with rocks with horizontal stratification?

I know what you mean, girdles are ultimately pointless but are always memorable experiences into wildly exposed places. Something about having to look down and sideways all the time is particularly intimidating compared to just going straight up...

It used to be done as the last thing in the development of a cliff.

All the possible up lines done then girdle it to finish.

HMU when you (or anybody) do exposure explosion as I'm super keen to get more photos of it!

I’d imagine my near-namesake jcw of this parish has!

jcm

Another good one on Yorkshire limestone was the Left Wall Girdle at Gordale.

That only gets two stars these days compared with Malhams 3.

They were the routes to do as a budding HVS leader back then.

Vanishing Point at Low Stoney Bank just up from there was excellent back in the day. It got harder and harder the further right you went. I'd imagine it's a complete clip job these days.

I've not done it but sometimes considered Herford's Girdle Traverse (VS 4b) the guidebook claims it to be one of the early traverses with no detailed route given

Well done Rich  

I doubt you can beat this

War and Peace (E6 6a)

though the UKC database doesn’t big it up much.

Have we had the Pinnacle Girdle - supposed to be very good.

jcm

Will do

I can't believe we're 85 posts in and no one has mentioned The Moon (E3 5c) "simply space walking".

Whilst you're on Yellow Wall it's also worth checking out The Cow (E5 6a)

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/06/24/over-the-moon-at-gogarth/

...  and Hanging Out At Glastonbury (E4 6a)

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2019/06/17/rucksack-club-gogarth-meet-2019...

Traversing doesn't get any better than that! 

Miner’s Girdle is great ! I did it in 1990. Can’t imagine it’s changed much ! 
 

A

I think it’s better than Dream of White Horses - the hanging stance on the big thread at the end of the first pitch feels as exposed as anything I’ve done.  

Welcome to the Cruise, one overhang above, is a good warm up and also complete space walking.

One of my more frightening experiences. 1993. Triple Overhang Buttress sea too high so switched to Welcome to the Cruise. Alex led it to the end but could not hear and one of the ropes jammed. In addition the crack was damp. Effectively soloed it, picking up coils of the jammed rope as I went. If I'd come off over the great overhang would have had to lower to the crashing sea and find something to prussik with. Calmed down with an amenable B team  buttress before it rained. 

Around 35 years ago a friend of mine took a hundred foot factor 2 fall from the top pitch of Deep Throat. He didn't hit anything, but the rope pulled tight around his leg and he couldn't walk for a week. His partner secured him to the rock then soloed out. By the time the helicopter arrived it was dark, and when the rescuer was lowered from the helicopter he was a good fifteen feet away from the injured climber. The pilot rocked the helicopter from side to side, and swung the rescuer in to reach the ledge where the casualty was.

Yes, I always found Triple Overhang Buttress moderately terrifying.  The potential for a considerable epic should anything go wrong seemed obvious to me, but everyone else treated it as easy Pembroke larks and nobody ever fell off so I thought I should just man up!  

These magical stars that fall from heaven! Two stars versus three! Endowed by whom?! 

These are two great routes - but the Gordale Left wing girdle is the bigger adventure.

Done that 😁 escaping from the hanging stance in the middle of "Pigs...".

Still have aspirations to go back and do the whole route.

To jcw: sea too high for "Pigs..." !!! That is a BIG sea.

To John2: that sounds like some crazily impressive helicopter flying.