UKH

I'm planning a resurgence of climbing activity in a few months (having had an almost complete lay-off for the last few years), and want to be best-prepared for my glorious comeback to outdoor climbing.

I've got a fingerboard in my flat and access to a pretty decent gym. There's no decent climbing or climbing wall nearby, and a dearth of suitable partners, so gym and fingerboard are the only tools at my disposal.

I've started doing a decent amount of aerobic work (cycling, running and rowing), have started a Pilates class and have committed to lose some of the gut that's developed over the years. I'm also cracking-on a bit (55 this year). On the positive side, I have 30+ years behind me of climbing at a reasonable level, so technique and "head" should come back pretty quickly. However, a recent trip to a wall in France showed that I am still able to do hard-ish moves, but I am severely lacking in endurance.

So - question is - what's the current thinking for using a gym to gain some strength, but more importantly endurance? I've searched similar threads on here, but they are all quite dated, and mostly refer to the gym as something to use while you're able to climb as well.

Looking forward to your answers, UKC experts!

Edit: should have put this in the Walls and Training forum - oops!

You can gain endurance on a fingerboard if your boredom threshold is high enough. Just get a pulley and take some weight off and use a reasonably sized edge. There are some routines on that new lattice app for this. 

Just to keep banging the Lattice drum, have a look at Training Beta podcasts, they have done a podcast (ep 91) on just this, it looks at having little time to train, how to train and what to train. The main thing that comes out of it is fingerboarding. Its quite long about 1hr20 but kills a few trips to work!

On the Training Beta thing there are a lot of other podcasts all be it very American there are some really good episodes. 

Enjoy and welcome back.

As you say your technique is going to be good. Losing weight will help a lot (obviously) and also the aerobic work.

Endurance can be gained on a finger board. Good article here; (https://rockandice.com/rock-climbing-training/hangboarding-for-endurance-no...). There is also lots of other endurance without a climbing wall type info available on the web.

I found in recent years that improving my core significantly and doing weighted fingerboard training has helped to offset somewhat the advances of age.

Hope that helps. Be good to see you out again.

TJB.

Hi Rich

To be honest, I hate using the fingerboard at the moment because it reminds me how weak I've become 

I'll try to set up a pulley system tonight and see if that makes it any more bearable.

From the links and words that responders have provided (thanks), I'll try open-handed on the pull-down bar in the gym and step up on the core exercises too. Plus antagonistic stuff....

I know what you mean about the fingerboard. How do you think I feel with an 18 year old training junkie watching my every session?

Doing gym work for endurance will also help. Lots of reps at low weight.

Oh and DO NOT watch any training videos!! They tend to be full of strong and fit under 30's and very demoralising.

Allo Steve, impressed to hear you're still so keen. Am currently training for a few spring/summer diffs by nit drinking every night. Going well although better half is away and the bottles of IPA in the fridge are looking mighty tempting.

Hey Eamonn - if you're coming to France this Easter, you'd best get training too. I'll be back to "Tubbs the Magnificent" by the end of April

I've no need to practice drinking though - that's going pretty well for me, to be honest.

Hehe it's been many years since the peak pub crawl! France looks unlikely as we went and bought a house but have a hoot!

Anyway I'm hijacking your thread here. Speak soon

Me too! I'm 45 and not climbed for 5 years. I don't have a gym or fingerboard but do have good walls. So far I've been losing weight, changing diet, and training antagonists via Pilates and free weights at home. 

One stone lighter and a much stronger core I've gained 2 ish V grades in 2 months. I'm feeling able (strong and light enough) now to go for the fingerboard, although at my low level some good crimpy laps are probably just as worthy.

I'd recommend Dave MacLeod's vlogs and books. 

Good luck!