UKH

Ok, so many UKC’ers have wish lists, and I am sure many are spending lockdown dreaming of which routes to do when released.

If you had to choose one route to do in 2021 which would it be?

Rules are you can only pick  one route, it can’t be a route you have already done, it must be a route that you have a reasonable chance of being successful on.

I will start with The Needle (E1 5b)

I'd love to just on My Halo (E7 6b). Well above my pay grade but flashed it on TR a couple of years ago, so you never know.

Perla Nera (E1)

I'd Love to climb Coranation Street, but never been to chedder in the 'open' season for this route.

I'll know for sure next time I'm there. I could physically do it in 2019 when I was pretty weak and recovering from injury, so I'll put a rope up it and see how consistently I can do it. Slate is the one rock type where I can generally punch above my proverbial weight so it's a maybe.

At the moment

The Dream/Liberator (E3 6a)

Though, my most wanted routes shift to whatever is currently just out of reach.

Hoping to do South Face (HS 4b); 18 pitches (or 21 depending on guidebook) so an early start and good weather will be necessary.

18 pitches? Really? It's a bloody long climb and complex. Overall I would not say the climbing is massively worthwhile as it's very loose in places. However the final traverse is incredible and some of the situations you are in are great. Just don't underestimate it. HS 4b does not do this justice... I believe it's actually 800mH, there is a lot of traversing so the route IMO is probably closer to 1000m of actual climbing. Many sections of scrambling though which go quickly. And the top out is also much longer than it looks. The top of the climbing is most certainly not the end of the climbing...

For me, Spigolo Nord on Monte Agner, or the Solleder Lettenbauer on Civetta.

Would like to get back on Motorhead on Eldorado - got rained off some years ago

Thanatos (n7+).

Or within the UK, Big John (E5).

The White Wizard (E3 5c)

Never been quite up to the challenge - it's meant to be high in the grade, plus it's always pretty dirty, plus I think a crucial peg might have gone now? Now, after getting shitter and fatter and weaker and less motivated for a year, somehow, I don't think 2021 is going to be the year for this one. 

Maybe I should scale down my ambitions to Pisgah Buttress Direct (S)?

The Prozac Link (E4 5c)

Never yet combined being there with going well enough and decent conditions.

Thanks Mike for pointing it out. I'm quite obsessed by that one actually; its been on my mind for years and i'm aware that pure technical difficulties are not the biggest factor here. as you said it's rather its length, tricky routefinding and poor rock.

I'm going to look up those you picked

That's one of the handful of routes I'd like to do before I give up climbing. I've been to the crag once (and maybe once for a look in the rain), and bottled getting on it.

The Wizard of Oz (7b S1)

Obviously stretching the "possibly capable" rule, but it is possible to work the sections and if there was no limit to how (same day) long I rested/refreshed on the obvious break points, I have always dreamt it could one day go.   

Cheers. Chris

There's 2 routes that I've failed on in the past, so they are unfinished business, but I think it would have to be A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c) at the moment.

Trilogy (E5 6a)

Not a healthy sounding grade, that, Jon 

The Needle is a great route and the Shelterstone is up there with the most spectacular places to climb in Scotland.

Anyway for me it's Eagle Ridge (Winter) (VI 6). Been wanting to climb it for years but I'm also determined to wait for good conditions. Would have got it last year if it wasn't for lockdown. I can't complain though as I had a good winter including getting no.2 on my list Labyrinth Direct (VII 6)

If I had to choose just one, I think it would be: Left Wall (E2 5c), but that would be a little bit of step up. Otherwise, I'm sorry but I have to be greedy and choose three:

1. Whit's End Direct (E1 5b) - personally, I feel this is the King Line of Gimmer...! Beautiful bright slab!
2. North West Passage (E1 5b) - because Al Evans said the FA was one of his best climbing days.
3. Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) - because I've been plotting it with various friends for a few years, and it would be great to finally do it!

Sounds about right.  We got rained off it too, and after doing the hard bits, which was vexing.

Edit: actually, looking at the log entries, maybe we didn't do all the hard pitches!

Resurrection (E4 6a)

If I can get out enough when we are allowed out and the weather is decent enough to get mileage in and find myself flowing and the cromlech in condition... A lot of things to come together considering my season is cut short this year due to work commitments in July through to November! I usually do a yearly ticklist but haven't bothered this year as it's going to be a suck it and see!

Really I just want to get out on rock and be in my happy trad place and not stuck inside 

I think this stands a chance of being the most obscure route that comes up: Cat's Paw (E2 5c) on Craig Penmaen Brith but I spent an inordinate amount of time cleaning up this slab on a rainy couple of days a couple of years ago and I've never been in the right place at the right time with the right person to go back and lead the two routes on it. Great location on the far side of Lyn Gwynant, but very shady - so the longer I leave it, the more the moss will reclaim it. Mind you, I've spent so much time this lockdown sat at the keyboard that I think it's growing on me too.

No, E2 is about right for Motorhead, as an overall package.

I thought I'd struggle a bit with this one, because I don't expect to get the chance to do much trad this year and whilst I've got a list of things I'd like to do (I identified a list of mostly SW classics I'd like to do at slightly more moderate grades) it'd be hard to pick one out above all the others, and the same is largely true for sport.

But then I thought a bit more and it became easy. It would take a good season, but I think a moderate chance of success is reasonable if things aligned. It's obviously logistically practical, and for me it stands head and shoulders above other potential ticks in its style.

Mark of the Beast (7c)

I’ve always wanted to do Bachar-Yerian (5.11d) but I’ll need to grow a bigger pair of cojones......

Embarrassingly several routes locally, think it's time to put a list together 

Good choice, Spigolo Nord is superb, in a perverse sort of way.

If borders are open, I'd like to finally have a crack at the Eiger Nordwand. If international travel is off the cards, maybe Michi Wohlleben's winter route on the West Face of the Schneefernerkopf.

They'll build your character.

I prefer my choice - sounds somewhat similar to Agner except that you traverse in above the thousand metres of character building choss instead of climbing it.

Well when I saw the title I though north face of the Dru, a route I retreated from many years ago. But then I saw "it must be a route that you have a reasonable chance of being successful on." 

Haven't done that but I remember Spring Bank right next to it being superb. Was E1 5c in the guide when I did it, which I thought was reasonable; definitely user friendly at E2 by Lakes standards.

I nearly went for another go at the Franco/Argentine on Fitzroy before reading the OP properly!

Bulgy (Winter) (VII 7) or Prore (Winter) (VIII 7)

I'd hoped to have a look this year but lockdowns and a 1 year old have put a damper on winter climbing this season.

That's one of my regrets in life, and I have virtually none. I was going strongly in 1983, and should have got up it, but for some very strange reason I suddenly psyched out - having done some moves badly just before the crux - and bottled out and asked to be lowered off. Virtually unprecedented in all my climbing. It still haunts me slightly. ... well in old age you have to grin

That's mine too! Would get it done by the end of the year (if we're ever allowed to go climbing again lol). 

The Resurrection (III), assuming good conditions, but a winter trip north of the border isn't really looking likely for 2021. Bummer.

Also we all need some optimistic forum threads...

Snap! Brilliantly irrational choice for most wanted route, isn’t it?

I envy you ... The strange thing was that I tried it too soon. That very winter the huge Birmingham climbing wall opened, the biggest in the country. And I built up huge amounts of reserve strength and stamina there. But the next summer my career in the film industry took me away from it and I never quite got back to the same standard again. (E1 thirteen years later).

This came into my mind before I read your post, so I have to agree. It's the kind of line that catches your eye immediately and makes you think 'I want to climb that' 

Left Wall, The Strand

That'd be a good day

Its attainable but will never be easy

Eagle Front & Cenotaph Corner for me. Doable, but just been putting them off for too long.

Exactly.  Just the small issue of being weak, talentless, carrying a covid kilo or two, and a year out of practice...

I'm not sure if this will make you feel better or not but I think the climbing is a bit overrated. The situations are definitely 3 star though.

Avernus. Not the short route of character at Swanage but the one on the Lleyn peninsula which is as open and long as the former is short and enclosed.

I should have done it years ago as it was then HS and over 1000ft long. Sadly for me it has shrunk in length and is now HVS in UKC logbook.   

Depending on how lockdown and international travel goes, it could be either Thin Wall Special (E1 5b) or North Ridge (D).

Steve

Great thread! Reminds me of a tactic I once adopted of setting my password to be the name of a route I really wanted to do. It got me up Prana (E3 5c), Star Wars (E4 5c) and The Axe (E4 6a) - I wrote a piece about it for The Rucksack Club Journal https://doughton.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/secret-words-getting-psyched-f...

Now all I need to do is work out the Secret Words for post lockdown... 

Go screaming up (or off) Freeborn Man (E4 6a), then get pissed in The Square and Compass

Cordier Pillar

If it's any consolation, I've made an utter balls-up of most of the aspirational mega-routes I've attempted. I made a total dog's breakfast of Sugar Cane Country (E4 6a); on Elegy (E2 5c) I ended up stranded in the middle of the slab after taking a wrong turn and had to get rescued (my excuse for this is that I'd taken a really odd drug the night before and was still operating as though reality was on the other side of a screen); but my crowning glory was obsessing over Eroica (E4 6a) for more than a decade, wobbling up to the crux, going up and down a few times, finally committing, then changing my mind and taking a massive screamer off the oh-so-heroic downclimbing. Classic.

Managed Resurrection and Left Wall OK though. So in the encyclopaedia of my regrets, they don't have an entry.

Yeah, it's definitely more for the general vibe than the climbing, big day out in the NW, splendid. Ah well.

I'm going to start going to the mountains outside of winter this year, seeing as how my usual work schedule is now totally bollocksed, got me eye on Squareface as soon as I can head north again.

For rock, definitely Gob on Carnmore.

Simples... 

Beyond Good and Evil (ED2)

Pretty much been top of my wishlist ever since I read Mark Twight's Extreme Alpinism many, many years ago.

Probably Shibboleth (E2 5c). Its localish for me but I've just never had a partner / conditions / or been too injured to climb it ( standing at the bottom and realised my shoulder was just totally messed up ).

In a way its quite nice having a route like that waiting to do though. Something to look forward to.

Winter wise it'd be Orion Face Direct (V 5) for obvious reasons. Just waiting for the stars to align for a good day in March, midweek to get it less busy and have an available partner.

Gotta go with either The Aghori (E9 7a) or Sky Burial (E7 6a) (If 2 is allowed...?)

Naked solo of Half Baked (E5 6a), partly because I'm starting a new business so it needs to be something local or it would never get done this year.

btw, great idea for a thread, there are several people who I might have to hit up because the routes they listed here would be on my wish list any day!

Fantastic crag, should be on everyone’s list of places to visit.

Little Brown Jug (VS 5a)Looks so good. Seemed too easy to lead  and too hard to solo when I was young and easy. Now it has become a possibly attainable goal given luck with work, weather, wellbeing and willpower. Three years ago when my man and I made our tentative return to climbing we had Right Angle as our ultimate goal. It turned out to be one of the best experiences of my climbing life, we were watched from the top by his 85 year old dad who was there on my first climb back in 1972. Not sure LBJ would match this if we ever got up it but it's got me thinking about climbing and reading guide books again.

Gosh, Elegy, I failed to second that! Couldn't do those extremely teetery moves left across the slab (or maybe I'm thinking of the wrong route?) 

How about Right Wall? Sounds like you might have been able to do that. Loads of friends of mine right back in the early 80s were telling me that, although it was badly protected, it was really only E4 5c, except on the second pitch for one move.

LBJ is simply a beautiful route on perfect rock. Not too high in the grade, but still VS, and reasonably protected. The top pitch, that some people make a fuss about, is just "2b at Harrison's" laybacking for few feet.

Probably Warpath (E5 6a) at Rhoscolyn or Right Wall (E5 6a) if I can finally find my big boy pants this year haha

Brilliant route. I don't think you'll be disappointed

My current dream route is La Belle Helene, Pointe Helene, Grand Jorasses.

With a bit of luck I will move much closer to the Alps this summer, so who knows, maz even get fit enough again once I get rid of my "coronaspeck"

CB

It was 40yrs ago since I did LBJ but I still remember thinking what a great route it was. Some climbs stay long in the memory long after others have faded away.

Left Wall (E2 5c) for me as well - unlikely to get a shot for years at this rate, and maybe never.

Nice Gabe, some good aspirational routes there; would be good to get out together again this year if the weather allows.

For my own choice, it's a hard one, but after botching Resurrection (E4 6a) last summer I really do need to go and finish it off. Who knows, maybe Right Wall will also be a possibility.

I'm surprised that anyone says "only" in front of E4 5c. As I said to Jon, that is a serious sounding grade.  Is my thinking too linear in equating it to E1 4c?

Point 5 gully

I remember looking up at it 16 or 17 years ago thinking that's the famous Point 5, I'd love to climb that one day, but at the back of my mind it was unattainable.

Since then I've been slowly 'chipping away' at my winter skill set and investing in better equipment and now I'm chomping at the bit to have a go. It nearly happened two years ago but my partner cancelled on me last minute...

I'm now resigned to the fact that it's probably not happening this winter, but it'll still be there next season. 

Definitely mate. Resurrection's on the list as well. Saw your notes about coming off near the top, brutal! Gimme a shout when you're heading up for a rematch. 

Hope you're well!

Two of my climbing partners did it last year, so it has gone from being slightly improbable to marginally more within the realms of the possible... 

Yes, I think so. Extrapolating to E5 6a or E6 6b you get pretty standard grades.

Still hoping for a few weeks in the Peak, Wales and the Lakes in the Autumn - I moved to Berlin when I was 23, I'm now 61 and have a list of unticked UK classics as long as your arm. But since we have to have a reasonable chance of doing the route, I'll assume continuing travel problems and stick to one closer to home: Leistenzauber (VII+) at the magnificent  Löbejün quarry near Halle in the German state of Saxony-Anhält. The grade translates to around E3 5c; I tried the onsight last year and fell off the crux a few times, so I'd be very satisfied with that. 

Nordic Flower L1 (8b+)

Spent the best part of  5 years on this. I can do all the moves but doing more then 2 in a row is proving tricky. I am certain I will never climb it but is the most beautiful route in the the most amazing location.

It is a compelling thread, though I can't decide if it helps motivation or builds more frustration!  It is really difficult to choose as there are always so many great routes to do.  

Despite living in the Lakes at one point and going to university in Lancaster, I have somehow missed out on doing very much up on Scafell.  I going to pick The Nazgul (E3 5c), which is very aspirational, but would have suited me once upon a time.  Now, back to the pull ups and the fingerboard!

Edited for grammar!

Ray's roof at baldstones 

Have a few others but rules is rules 

Odd, that, There's no way of viewing E1 4c as a "standard" grade, is there?

Do Saxon (E2 5c) then. It's mega! 

No, it is bound to be really serious. If you go up an adjectival grade, the standard tech grade goes up less less than one notch. E1 5b is standard. E5 6c is not ( to look at it the other way round)

The moves up right to the rest before the "crux" actually is the crux! I belayed one partner who wasn't expecting that bit to be hard and fluffed it. And another who did that bit, and assuming the top bit would be harder, got psyched out and hung on the rope when it was really in the bag.

Can totally understand the obsession. In the exuberance of youth we decided it would be the first route we did in the Dolomites. After a casual start, we ended up stuck in the first amphitheatre with 1 ice axe between 4 and a massive rock solid snow field to traverse... we spent a night on a ledge on the way back down. I went back a few years to finish it off. The situations you are in is kind of mind bending and worthwhile for that...

Wow, what a whole lot of psyche there is within this thread.

Some great answers too, both in terms of those I've done and those I haven't.

When it comes to the route I'd most like to do I'm going to throw in a curveball, because it 's not actually a route, but does follow 'a route' of sorts - it's the Bob Graham.

I was down to do it last year, and had put a lot of time and effort into training for it throughout the winter, but when my appendix ruptured in February those plans immediately went out the window. Whilst I haven't put in anyway near as many hours training this year I'm just going to aim to have a go, have fun, and hopefully finish it.

In many ways it'd be a big physical and psychological milestone, because I really can't overstate just how f**ked I was after my appendix ruptured - or how close I was to dying. Life, painful though it was for a while, has never felt so good since and I just feel lucky to be alive - let alone try to finish off the dream of doing the Bob Graham.

I used to have a strange fascination with this, but it would take serious work to get fit enough to try it now.  Let me know if you need someone to hold your rope/spot!

It says something about my present mood that I'm struggling to think about anything I really want to do.  Loads of vague aspirations or unrealistic dreams but a route I really, really want to do and am prepared to put some sustained effort into making it achievable, geographically as well as physically?  I'll try to get inspired.

Neither am I (sure I'm up to leading it).  However, I have a date with Scafell in mind to help Chris Gooder with Ichabod, so it gives me a very good training target and a reason to get strong!

Excellent thread Martin. I have great memories of doing Cordier Pillar (TD+ 6b) in 1981. It’s a brilliant route, hope you get the opportunity to do it.

Absolutely loving the gritstone at the min, so gonna have to go with Gaia (E8 6c). Beautiful feature, loads of history, big fall potential - dream route really. Just hoping there's still some friction left in the grit by the time we leave lockdown

I really, really must get to Scafell sometime. Mad that I've never been on it in nearly forty years climbing! But at least it means I still have those mega-classics to look forward to. About time I ventured south of the border again after nearly four years anyway (once Nicola lets me!).

The Bob Graham round is a perfectly legitimate answer and a great objective. 
It sounds like you had a rough time and I can relate your situation about being glad to just be alive. Despite being fit and skinny I had a heart attack 4 years ago at the age of 54(4 years ago tomorrow to be precise) and it does change your perspective. I decided i would train and see if i could run a marathon, managed it a year later(3:28). Then i smashed my ankle really badly 2 1/2 years ago and it looked like id never climb or run again, but im back at it and every route feels like a victory.

Right grade, wrong crag. Don't do that one, sounds shite.

It stops working quite so linearly about E2/3, in that 5b and 5c are fairly standard grades for E2 and 5c/6a for E3 in a way that 5a and 5b aren't quite for E1. Middle of the road E4 tech grade is probably 6a, so E4 5c is maybe more like E1 5a than E1 4c?

It's not really that mad (well, 40 years is plenty of time) because it's usually only going to be in condition the same time Scottish mountain crags and/or Cloggy is in. When there's a heatwave, I always head to Scafell (or Pillar, Gable Crag, etc), so I've done almost nothing on Cloggy, and literally nothing in the Scottish mountains over 20 years.

I don't consider E4 5c massively scary on big crags. Maybe a bit bold, but probably more sustained than anything. Could be seriously smashy-uppy on grit though.

Rock: Left Wall

Winter: Orion Face

Alps: Comici Route

Got really fit by the end of Feb '20 and really hoping to get on LW last summer but Covid restrictions did for me. Walked up quite a few times to do it but someone was always stuck on it or retreating to it from Resurrection.

Should have ticked OF in 2013 but couldn't get a partner for the week in was in perfect nick. The next week a big thaw greeted us!

Bloody hell Martin, that's a rough ride!! As you say though, each and every route you do after these sorts of experiences just feels amazing doesn't it.

Incidentally, The Needle (E1 5b) is a great choice. Shelterstone is such an awe-inspiring crag and Loch Avon makes for a beautiful backdrop. I haven't done much there in summer, but what I have done - The Needle (E1 5b), Steeple (E2 5c) and The Pin (E2 5b) - have all been highly memorable experiences.

It's definitely somewhere I'd like to go back to, but I really need to visit Carnmore Crag first. 

Too many places, too little time!!

I can't recall whether I've done one (having checked, Grand Alliance isn't - so probably I've experienced it on some of the pitches on Amanita Muscarina albeit my lead pitch was the 6a one in the middle).

But that's not that different to how I'd describe E1 5a - normally a bit necky on grit/outcrops but potentially more sustained/spacey on big cliffs.

Agree (sorry if it sounded like I was disagreeing). It's a quirk of the system that there isn't a grade of this character at E2 but E3 5b can be like this, e.g. Ocean Boulevard (E3 5b).

Still vividly remember Botterill's Slab, 25 years ago, after work and in the sunshine.

For this thread Salbitschijen, West ridge.

Might be possible this summer, after training during the lock downs and seeing the effect of the first in September I actually think  the limiting factor is now going to be my left knee. 

Better to do the direct version of Prore!

Good explanation ( though from my experience of them, E1 5a should still set the alarm bells off a bit)

Right Wall Right Wall (E5 6a)

Been a dream route since I started leading in the mud at Symonds Yat 15 years ago. I went for it on probably the last day of good autumn weather and botched it right up between the first two ledges, losing the treasured onsight.

So with winter and lockdowns, the rat is gnawing...

Thanks!

I've not been on either Prozac Link or Right Wall, so treat all that follows with a pinch of salt, but I thought that if we say E1 5a and E4 5c might mean vaguely similar things about the experience that Prozac Link was more of a The Smile (E1 5b) or a Rock Idol (E1 5a) than it was a [insert stereotypical necky grit E1 5a here - I'm not very familiar so don't have a good example]. Having watched people on Right Wall there certainly look to be some sections moving a reasonable way from gear, although I think it's mostly more in the long clean fall territory than risking deck out (although I thought you could potentially clip your ankles on the foot ledges if you came off and stayed quite close to the wall rather than coming out a bit.).

Considering my current health condition following a stroke affecting my left hand and trapped ulna and median nerve in my right arm, I would so love to Return to Lundy to do A Widespread Ocean of Fear again but I think that’s a while off at the moment?

Have you had the chance to venture into the Lagorai yet right opposite the Pala? I've now done a few of the routes on Tognazza and they are all stellar, honestly three of the best days climbing I've ever had. The rock there is Porphyry, and it forms as massive slabs with crack lines sometimes. 250m high and an easy walk in. I really want to get to Colbricon next to do a route there as there are 450m routes on the same rock and nobody does them! 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/tognazza-22250

Prozac link has well protected 5c climbing, less well protected 5a/b bits, and the grade (all be it on the soft side for E4) reflects the 'experience' of a committing 4 pitch route in a route location etc. No (standalone) pitch warrants e4.

Right Wall - I don't recall the bolder sections being particularly hard. Up to the first ledge is tricky, and passing the porthole at the top might be the hardest moves...? I've read it described as 3 x e4 pitches separated by ledges, which felt about right.

Definitely Les Enfants de la Dalle (6a+), went there specifically to try it but it never stopped raining!

I'm also keen to do a sea stack at some point, not terribly fussed as to which.

Sadly not. I don't get down there that often - last summer's planned Pala trip was nixed by an injured partner and iffy weather forecast - and have never set foot on Porphyry

My all time regret is Comes The Dervish. At it's original E5 grade I thought it was 2 grades too hard for me and then I gave up climbing pretty much in 1986. I thought it would be good comeback route to do at 40, then 50, by 60 I'd written it off completely but starting climbing again at 70 it's reared its head again, mostly just a dream but, there in the back of my mind, just maybe ...

If you can sort out that polished bold start, the rest is just steady and well protected.

I should have a partner but I'll bear you in mind

Couple of mates who had to back off it (started too late) in 2019 thought it very good value E2

I think that over 70 you are allowed a bouldering pad under the start.  In fact, I think I might use one if I ever do it again.

That's a good shout - never did get to do it.

Are winter routes allowed?

if so:The Citadel (VII 8)

Is it even still possible to get to the start? I wonder if anybody made it into Vivian to have a look between the big rockfall and Lockdown.

It's really worthwhile crossing the valley - it's a different world, with views to the Pala which are, shall we say, easy on the eye. I just found some info on Colbricon here as the guidebook is out of print it would seem:

http://www.scuolagraffer.it/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&a...

Great choices! So many fantastic Robin Smith routes. Someone put this list together: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=163

I'd love to do Leverage (E1 5b) and Shibboleth.

Yes, but not by walking. I imagine someone will pop an abseil station onto the tower above Gin Palace at some point, that will be the easiest way to access the Dervish slab. As it is you could abseil off various anchors up there.

How long ago did you climb it? When I last climbed the Dervish last year I didn't think any of the microwires in the first 5m were even worth placing, all blown out. I don't think it's sound advice to call the start 'reasonably safe'.

Mandarin (E2 5c) Unfortunately access restrictions mean that you can only climb it for a very limited time of the year and I couldn't get to it last year. My brother is moving from Lancashire to Dorset soon so that also makes the trip up from London to do it less convenient. I haven't managed to tick E2 yet but I've had a close go on a similarly long route in Dorset so I'm optimistic with some lockdown training 

Something on the top tier? 

Blue Sky at Pembroke. Was looking forward to getting on it throughout 2020. First trip cancelled due to lockdown. 2nd trip cancelled due to Welsh Government advising against all non-essential travel. 

Hopefully 2021 will be the year. 

Depends where I can get too this year, I'd love to get back to NW Scotland and try Call of the Wild at Lochan Dubh, if not and I'm Lakes bound probably Snickersnack or Air on a Bowstring. 

Lots of great routes so far. Im surprised no one has mentioned East Face Route (Original Route) (E1 5b) or Centurion (HVS 5a) or Vector (E2 5c)

If not, in the UK:

Freebird (E4 6a)

in the US:

Astroman (5.11c)

The latter is aspirational as I think it’ll always be beyond me 

with you on this one... if you stand at the bottom of it you can't avoid dreaming about the possibility..... just maybe.....!

Agreed. A friend of mine who was a Guide badly broke his leg falling off the start. After the first 30ish ft its safe. Glad I did it when it was E5!

Less than 30ft these days. Possibly due to a shard of rock coming out at some point, the first fat wire you do get at about 15ft is so good it might as well be a bolt.

I think taking a bouldering mat would be a perfectly reasonable approach for anyone on Comes the Dervish, over 70 or not (only now you'll have to abseil with it, or chuck it down and hope it doesn't go all the way...).

With the start padded the route is probably E2, comparable to Pull My Daisy. 

It will be Direct Nose Route (Winter) (VII 7) until I finally do it. Stunning line, stunning setting, its been on the list since I did it as an HVS a few years ago. Its probably been hyped up disproportionately in my mind but thats always the way.

I'd be happy with either version to be honest. Run out ledge shuffling suits me more than any burly climbing though. 

Ok, If we’re allowed to travel, I’ve thought of good one:

Flower of High Rank (5.9)

It’s good because it’s perfectly doable assuming I get back to being functionally fit, and it would require me to get back to a favourite place to see and climb with some favourite people.  And I’ve wanted to do it for ages.

It’s a truly amazing day out. Not sustained but the difficulty is up.

money of my great days out in Scotland- top 10!

Yes, a lovely route. Only visited briefly, but Taquitz/Suicide is brilliant and seems to be a bit off the UK radar, though it is easily combined with Joshua Tree. Must go back and do some of the longer routes.

Hi Graham. Rather you than me for Eagle Ridge in winter! I found it exciting enough in summer! So what rock route do you want to do most?

Know how you feel. Only been to N. Wales twice, first time early in climbing career. Second time - early 90’s- went up to Dinas Cromlech and lead Cenotaph Corner will no problems. Unfortunately, young guy ( I was in my early 40’s) was peeling off Left Wall and that psyched me out so didn’t venture onto it; past it now but been a bit of a regret ever since but, hey - ho that’s the way it goes. 

PS Made up for it a bit the following day O/S The Strand then DoWH - remember that, although I had just got back from Spain with a tan, the backs of my legs got burnt on the traverse as I was wearing shorts - happy days!

PPS Still hoping I might manage to get up Shangi La on Skye this year. Centurion if I can get myself fit enough.

Great thread, good for inspiration given current times.

I love climbing trips to north Wales so would have to be one of the classic E3s in the Pass or on the slate for me. I’ll go for Foil (E3 6a)

Great stuff! I think I would struggle on Dragon in my current overweight middle-aged state, but I do Fancy Fionn Buttress, Black Mischief and Gob.

Did you have bikes to ease the walk in? I've only been in to do the Munros, but I found a bike priceless.

I'm sure I wont! If I do get it done, I wonder how it compares in quality and enjoyment to Centurion, Vulcan Wall, Trophy Crack and Bludger's?

I would suggest you were very fit! When Captain Solo (RIP) and I did Point Five in 2007, we took 4 hours climbing time for the route and the Grade IV variation finish. I know I was reasonably fit then, but not up to your standard!

It's definitely up there with those. It's hard to beat Centurion. 

Agreed! Definitely the best rock route I've ever done (alas, also with Captain Solo), even better than The Needle or Trophy Crack.

I’ll go with A dream of white horses. Always been on my to do list. 

It reminds me very much of Exasperator (5.10c), which I have climbed - also a long steep finger crack with a lightning-bolt shape (uncanny resemblance actually), and famous as a classic benchmark at the grade (5.10c is pretty much E2 5c - same grade basically!)

Yes, definitely time for the next Genetics Society meeting in San Diego, and a few days in Tahquitz / Suicide!

I really don't think travelling 10.000 km is justified just for climbing for a couple of weeks, so I am stuck with combining it with scientific meetings and a tour of giving talks at the labs of friends several unis afterwards.

CB

I’m usually in San Diego for a couple of weeks every quarter, and I have think of something to do at the weekend.  Fortunately, I have friends in Idyllwild!

Botterill's Slab (VS 4c) - been on my "to do" list since about 1975, maybe this year...

I'm impressed by the degree of optimism being expressed here. Personally my goals are lower. I should like to climb any route - any route at all.

jcm

I walked in and out and did Dragon and Gob, and I can assure you that I was not 'very fit', neither before nor, and more especially, afterwards.

jcm

My heads in winter mode at the moment but its probably Angel Face (E2 5c)  Beinn Eighe is really a brilliant place to climb and I like steep stuff!

Not done Gob but got a good look at it from Dragon. Looks good. Another spectacular cliff.

I'm not sure whether this is "above all others" but certainly the longest (unattempted) route is the Messner on the Second Sella Tower in the Dolomites.

It's over 20 years since I've climbed in the Dolomites, when we had a great time hoovering up long easier lines.  I was always taken by the idea of a long (by UK standards) and hard (by my standards) (VI).

Messner being the icon and the Second Sella tower being so prominent with an apparently pure line straight up the N face sowed the seed of desire back then.

Just a great position and line to be climbing. More 'climbing' on the direct and probably safer (no risk of the pendulum back into the corner). My only suggestion would be doing when not icy! 

Dunno, the Shelterstone routes feel like more of an adventure to me, with Carn Dearg Buttress being more mountain cragging    

Never mind dreaming Martin, you should be getting some mileage on your indoor wall!

Interesting reading about Left Wall and climbing with your son. On that basis I'm picking one specifically to pull off with Billy Lawrence - Gogarth E1.  We both have it on the 'wish list' but it would be special to do it with 'the boy'.

Andy Lawrence

Yes, it's easily accessible from San Diego or Los Angeles but feels quite alpine.  I've done a couple of easy longer Tahquitz routes (variations on Fingertrip and North East Face West) and some of the classics on Suicide but missed my chance to do Flower after we did Guillotine and have been kicking myself ever since.

At the right time of year you can climb on sun-baked slabs on Suicide and ice on the north side of Tahquitz on the same weekend (and I have!) 

I like your grade translation. There’s a tendency to think of VII+ as about sport 6b+, 6c-ish, but in the Frankenjura it often bloody well isn't if Kurt Albert bolted it! 

U.K. trad grades have got their limitations. Without a good description e4 5c could be super safe and mega sustained (arms race Avon gorge?) or one 5c move above a death fall (Taurus - Cloggy?). Hopefully the guide says safe and tiring...

Gogarth (E1 5b) is a good route and one that many climbers target, but its actually not that great and has one pitch that is much harder than the rest. Three VS pitches with a tough E1 pitch. You and Billy would be better off aiming for Resolution Direct (E2 5b) which is absolutely brilliant, the hard bits are well protected.

This is a great thread, so much psyche. 

Sport for me- would love to send Road Rage (7b+) this year. Not sure if it’s a pipe dream but I’m stoked just to even try and get into that kind of shape.

Trad wise, aiming for my first grit E1, but haven’t picked which yet. Will require sorting out my gear/head/grit technique so hopefully can get enough time on the rock.  

had a great day out on that way back in the early days of my climbing career. What a position it puts you in on the slab. 

Dreadnought (E3 5c)

Did Moonraker a few years back, looking out from the corner pitch at the traverse across the arch looks amazing and very doable, it's a stunning aspect.

I live in Devon now so no excuses really... 

It wasn't really in my head as a plan for this year but I think that it's now locked in as a target, thanks to the OP. 

Maybe have a look at Strapiombante @ Froggatt if you're in good sport climbing shape and strong as I found it just a couple of powerful moves. 

I guess it's partly a matter of opinion. I think the climbing suited me better on Centurion - a lot more jamming! It helped that Ewan got his favourite pitch - the 5a slab with overhangs and I was happy as a hog in shit on the great corner crack 2nd pitch!

That looks phenomenal!

only one route- how harsh. As I live in Melbourne and climbing anything is difficult at the best of times I am going to cheat.

1) Cenotaph corner

2) Point Five Gully

Not sure I will ever climb either and certainly not for at least 12 months....

Thanks for the fantasy though

Exactly. Shows my age. I  should have done them then too. Now at the other end of the earth not sure whether I ever will, or whether I will be capable!

Good call Martin, I'll check it out.

HVS 😁 - well it was when I did it.

But seriously, if sending a 7b+ is a possibility, then any E1 in the land should be within her technical capabilities so it shouldn't be too hard to find some that are well protected. Bit of easier climbing to get used to the grit, then there are just loads of possibilities.

It's definitely HVS until the last move...then it's 100% E1  

I agree 7b+ is happening on bolts then hell yeah, E1 is should be easily achievable once you're happy with gear and the belay systems. 

Fixed that for you

Would have to be on Cloggy (weather gods permitting). I will go for The Troach (E2 5b). Been on the tick list since I first looked across from Curving Crack (VS 4c) in 1971. About time it was done!

Worth doing Demon Rib (E3 5c) before deciding if e4 5c is a good plan.

Would be very suspicious of anything that gets e4 5c... Maybe no gear and you hit the deck and then fall down a cave when it goes wrong?? 🤔.

Yet another trick way to avoid the crux of Lone Tree Groove (VS 5a) 😁 as per https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rocktalk/least_enticing_guidebook_descrip...

I would be suspicious of one which looked poorly protected or that wasn't clearly a crack or stamina route. But there are a good number which are fine gear-wise.

Would Love to climb the South Ridge (D), Salbitschijen. It looks an incredible journey. 

Can't think of a contender on peak grit or lime that fits your description very well?

Wee Doris (E4 5c)  ..bold..?

Bitterfingers (E4 6a) ... Safe but one notch up on tech.

E4/5c is bold by the very nature of the grading system.. so if you're doing safe moves at 5c it's probably E3 really? No matter how pumpy?

OK it's not in the Peak but for grit there's Wellington Crack (E4 5c)

As for no matter how strenuous something is, surely if a route feels E4 then that's the grade irrespective of tech grade.

Of course.

Another: Lime Street (E4 5c)

Its all subjective I suppose.

Honestly not trying to be awkward.. I can't think of an e4/5c in the peak you could realistically plan on falling off the 5c moves. There maybe one, I just maybe missed it?

To be honest the peak can be a nightmare at E3, maybe some should be E4! Queer Street (E3 6a)  spring to mind.. a tech notch up 6a and still only E3.

I do agree with you about the Peak. Not an easy place to push the grade - either bold or brutal!

easily ! 

When the UKC database was compromised, if the encrypted passwords had been obtained, there would have been so many that could have been easily hacked by cross-referencing logbooks and wishlists.

Let’s make this happen this year Tom!

Mine would be Sitting Bull (7a)  but realistically I doubt I'll get there this year because of COVID.

I'll have a think and may commit a 2021 ambition tomorrow.

Il Duce (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/tintagel_head-689/il_duce-8371) for me. Whether I’ll pluck up the courage to attempt it (again!) is another matter.

ps - how do I edit the hyperlink so it just says the route name like everyone else up thread?

I'm another one for The Prozac Link (E4 5c).

Or maybe a return to Mingulay and Voyage of Faith (E3 5c).

But if neither of these come to be I would probably settle for finally working out this boulder conundrum: Tia Maria (f7A)

Above the "quote original in reply" box is "insert climb link". Type in the name of the route and as long as it's in the logbooks it should come up. Click on it! 

I can think of quite a few routes I've done at E4 5c that aren't bold.

Call to Arms (E4 5c)

Spaced Out Rockers On The Road To Oblivion (E4 5c)

Sonique (E4 5c)

Fay (E4 5c)

Mother's Pride (E4 5c)

The Peak isn't the sort of place you'll get such routes, because it's usually not very steep for very long. 

I backed off that because of the boldness going up between the breaks on the first pitch....... Maybe I'm just a wimp  It was a bit greasy though.

Edit: Agree about Sonique and Mother's Pride though.

I think mine would have to be Polar Circus (WI-5) as I doubt I’ll be back in the UK with time and at the right time to do Point Five. Slipstream also looks amazing, but has a scary reputation. 

I'd love to get back on Il Duce

Tried it 30 odd years ago: did the first pitch and couldn't do the 2nd as too damp & greasy. In fact could barely even stand up on the belay ledge.

Retreat was entertaining

Genesis (VII 7)Snoopy (Winter) (VII 7) both winter routes but would love to climb either of these this year 

for summer probsLing Dynasty (E5) and anything on the dubh loch 

Ah no you're right actually, that bit was a bit pokey. I seconded that pitch so I'd sort of forgotten, the big pitch after it being the more memorable one.

Gone are the days of "I'm not really an E2 climber..."

Excellent.

Yeah you're on mate. 

Let’s say I like to take my Time. Cheers 

Thanks!

Well i guess Great Wall (E4 6a) though i only have a good chance of  only getting part of the way up. The other equal contender would be Shibboleth (E2 5c) but less likely to make it to Scotland. Other top routes would be The Pinnacle Girdle (E3 5c). Taurus (E4 5c), Hazy Days (E4 6a) and Memory Lane (E3 5c). So many great routes out there.

The all-time dream route for me is the Denali Diamond on the south face of Denali- 3000m of alpine terrain between the schrund and the summit. Ian Parnell's write up about the second ascent totally inspired me when I was a kid. Fingers crossed we can get over there in the next few years.

Deep Blue Sea, The Eiger NF

Now you're talkin'.

Swiss Route, Les Courtes N face. I would settle for the Couturier Colouir on the Verte as a back up!

Absolutely any route I can as I haven’t climbed since I ripped two tendons clean off my shoulder on Stanage last August !

Sphinx Nose Traverse (S 4a)

It's been on my wishlist, entry #1, since October 2009. It's getting a bit ridiculous now.

The route that is keeping me dreaming and looking hopefully towards a brighter future is an aid solo of the Pre-Muir into the Triple Direct on El Cap.

I haven't got a clue whether I will be able to find enough time and money to attempt it when we are able to travel again but life would be grim without the dreaming, planning and poring over topos.

[Left Wall]

That's good to know! I got as far as that bit when I attempted the climb back in the '90's. Wasn't sure whether to stretch out right for some big pockets (which seemed too far away) or teeter directly up in the hope of finding hidden holds above. Couldn't see where the next gear placement was either. While in this state of uncertainty it started spitting with rain, which added to the anxiety. I was glad when my belayer called up to tell me it was raining (as if I didn't know) as that gave me the perfect excuse for backing off! So I downclimbed to the spike and was lowered off. Of course I pretended that the rain was my reason for abandoning the climb, but I would almost certainly have backed off anyway as the difficulty of that bit had taken me by surprise and I "knew" the crux was still to come. I certainly won't be up to trying it again this year, and realistically I think I'm probably past it now anyway.

Looks like there is gunna be one hell of a queue for Left Wall when Lockdown ends! And I can't believe that nobody has Cemetery Gates on their wishlist for such an amazing climb.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dinas_cromlech-4/cemetery_gates-32...

Check out the wishlist at the bottom of the post.

Well Left Wall (E2 5c) deserves to have people queueing up to climb it, Cemetery Gates (E1 5b) is also a great route but not quite up there with Left Wall in my opinion.

I’d rate the Gates as better than Left Wall.

The weekend before my wedding I worked my way up the grades starting at Diff (Lockwoods Chimney) and ending up soloing some soft touch E1 on slate. Time for Left Wall! After waiting at the bottom behind other parties, I completely went off the boil and my 'effort' foundered about 10 feet up.

Sadly I shan't be going back.

Orion Direct.
 

Many years ago I was up at the Cromlech midweek, perfect weather, deserted

Thought I'll finally get around to doing Cenotaph, Left Wall and maybe Memory Lane or Resurrection

Fell over putting my harness on, badly twisted ankle, an hour to crawl to the road, lift to Bangor casualty...

Must get fitter and go back

Excellent choice,

I haven't winter climbed for years, but if there's one route I'd like to come back for then this is it. It's just the ultimate, isn't it?!

Point Five Gully (V 5) and Orion Face Direct (V 5) were always the dream routes when I started winter climbing. Happy to have done both and neither route disappointed.

I don't know, I haven't done it!

Yes, an absolute classic in line, setting, reputation and history. 

Wellington Crack (E4 5c)

Dirty, in an ugly quarry teeming with doped up teenagers chucking broken bottles and fat bald blokes flying drones. 

I've just looked up at it too many times. 

But if we're going all out I'll take dibs on Métanoïa (ED4).

The Point is class. Orion I found a bit easy and the "all the atmosphere of a major Alpine face" guidebook comment definitely overstates it!

Top priority for 1st half of 2021.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108385440/silk-road-high-times

Have to agree the only pitch of note is the second slab rib, although it does depend on conditions. Steady grade IV is the norm.

Electric Blue (E4 5c) 2021 or any year, the route I would most like to do is Electric Blue, often looked at it, sometimes for real, sometimes via the pictures on UKC or Keith Sharples calender, but mostly just in my mind. One day...

In reply 

I've always thought Whit's End Direct is harder than Spring Bank, the latter being pretty soft by Lakes standards!

In my top 5 to do list. Great place to visit.... but when will I be able to travel there again...?!