UKH

Off to Swannage at the weekend and looking for some fun stuff to do up to about VS, any recommendations? Have the latest rockfax offering on the guidebook front.

Avernus (S 4a) is quite unique. 

Also don't be put off from trying Finale Groove (HVS 4c) if going well,  as it's a VS in an HVS setting and we'll protected.

Another vote for avernus. Don’t be put off by the lower grade, it’s a really nice adventure climb. 

I really enjoyed Isis (VS 4c) when I was there a few weeks ago. Isis gives well-protected 3D climbing in an improbable situation for VS. I found it was the climb I think back to the most from the trip. Be aware that the Rockfax description was wrong at one point so check that your guidebook has the corrected topo in it. https://www.rockfax.com/news/2014/04/22/isis-swanage-important-topo-correct...

I also enjoyed Freda (VS 5a), which gives a lovely face climb on good holds. 

If this is your first trip to Swanage, I'd recommend starting at Subluminal, which will give you a feel for the area and the rock. Be wary about gear placements behind loose blocks, check for fracture lines around the block as well as hollowness when tapped. Also, drop your grade a bit until you get used to how things are going.

Have a great trip,
Mehmet

Finale groove looks quality! The others look good too. Cheers! Any more recommendations welcome! 

Benny (A1)

its VS - but not as you know it. Absolutely brilliant route, but then I have never done anything like it before or since

I'd say mistaken identity is my favourite Swanage VS.  Loads of other good VS from the same abseil.  Tensor II is tough for VS.

Be aware that the once classic VSTatra (pre 2014 rockfall) (VS 5a) has had a rockfall and is now considered E1 Tatra (E1 5b)

Tomorrow's Grief (VS 4c)

Silhouette Arête (VS 4c)

Wall Street (HS 4b)

Zo-Zo (VS 4b)

Lost Souls (VS 4c)

Spreadeagle (VS 5a)

good and well protected but a little tough if VS is your physical limit, great ramp up to HVS climbs if not.

Regarding Finale Groove.  There's no way you should be abbing down to the Marmolata area unless you are comfortable leading HVS.  There is nothing easy out of there.  If you can't lead 5a you could be stuck down there.

Finale Groove is not a VS, it's full-on HVS for those of us operating at that grade.  Just look at the voting on UKC.  And it's 35m. 

I remember thinking Finale Groove was quite a tough HVS. I finished up yarding on a sling to get up the bulging lower corner and found it very sustained all the way to the top.

Thank you for a much needed dose of sanity. I've lost count of the number of people with whom I've abbed into the Ruckle for their first time. And then they promptly shat themselves. For such a relatively small crag, it sure feels big.

Re Finale Groove, there was a lovely article about this route, in a climbing mag, about 25 years ago. He'd led E7; she was the first British lady to climb E6. (These were big grades back then!)  A lowly HVS. What could possibly go wrong?  Answer: a lot!

[To the OP] I'd strongly suggest you go to Subluminal and start on Severes. Don't expect them to be easy; they're not. (Second Corner's brilliant.) If all goes OK on day one, then have a look at Scott's list for day two. He knows the place better than anyone ever will.

Mick

I always carry prusiks for this reason.

Hi 

i’d go to Guillemot and do Mistaken identity, Batt crack and Tensor 11

And of course a pie and pint at the S&Q afterwards.  I’d pre place a rope to belay from when you get to the top of Mistaken Identity which is a faff but worth it. Nice straightforward and well protected.

Then do Quality Street the next day. I’m sure it only gets HVS because of the walk-in and abseil

Freda and Avernus. Mega!