Swanage or Stanage

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 Jamie Wakeham 23 Sep 2020

... which will be nicer this weekend? With a norwester forecast, I'm thinking that the South facing cliffs at Swanage might be a nicer place to be, despite the fact that the wind is a bit stronger there?

4
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

depends on the type of climbing you prefer

OP Jamie Wakeham 23 Sep 2020
In reply to climberclimber321:

I mean, I'm thinking of lots of easy (sub VS) classics. Perhaps I should rephrase the question: if there's a reasonably strong norwesterly, are Subluminal and Cattle Troughs fairly well sheltered from it? 

Post edited at 20:44
 Graeme Hammond 23 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

If you want lots of sub VS classics to try Stanage is better IMO (as long as its not freezing there, i haven't looked at the forecast). I haven't been to Cattle Troughs but from my brief visits Subliminal whilst the atmosphere is great by the sea the climbing is nothing special compared to the classics at Stanage at VS and below.  Swanage is best enjoyed at VS and above on the big cliffs! where the classic routes are outstanding and the south facing cliffs are usually complete suntraps so if you prefer warmth this might be a better option. 

 Nathan Horwood 23 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

it would depend on the weather, current forecast is wet for swanage as i was hoping to boulder at St. Aldhems. 

 Martin Wood 23 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Swanage or Stanage? This a joke post, right?

5
OP Jamie Wakeham 23 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Cheers, both.  Arthur, I am quite aware of the range of climbing available at both crags..!  I'm simply asking which will feel more comfortable, given the forecast this weekend of a stiff northwesterly wind.

The current (Met Office) forecast is bone dry at Swanage - they reckon <5% chance of rain all through Fri-Sun.  My question is simply whether the wind will be an annoyance - I'm assuming it'll whip straight over the top and not really be an issue.

Post edited at 22:53
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Would you rather spend ages swanning around near water, or ages standing in a gale? 

 alan moore 24 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Stanage will be nicer.

Swanage will be warmer.

OP Jamie Wakeham 24 Sep 2020
In reply to John Stainforth:

I'd spent ages trying to find a joke about the relative benefits of Ws and Ts...

In reply to alan moore:

Universally true

 mutt 24 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Northerly, 15C, low neap tides. It doesn't get much better than that at Swanage.  That's where I'm going.  Tho it might be a bit damp in places after last nights rain.

 steveb2006 24 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

You dont really want to be at Stanage in a cold north westerly. Everything else being equal (dont know how far you are travelling) Id go for a south facing Swanage.

If you do want grit though there is always S facing Rivelin (not too far from Stanage). 

 Bulls Crack 24 Sep 2020
In reply to Martin Wood:

> Swanage or Stanage? This a joke post, right?

>

There's also Standedge and Stevenage to cosnider. 

In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

> I mean, I'm thinking of lots of easy (sub VS) classics. Perhaps I should rephrase the question: if there's a reasonably strong norwesterly, are Subluminal and Cattle Troughs fairly well sheltered from it? 

then stanage.

 Mark Stevenson 24 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

It should be decent late season conditions at Swanage this weekend. Have had great days there with similar forecasts of sunshine and offshore winds. 

Equally, it was mint conditions at Millstone on Tuesday and the weather forecast is fairly similar so Peak Grit should be fine as well. 

 steveriley 24 Sep 2020
In reply to Bulls Crack:

I've been to Stanage and Standedge in the same week recently. They were both very windy. Hope this helps.

OP Jamie Wakeham 24 Sep 2020
In reply to mutt:

> Northerly, 15C, low neap tides. It doesn't get much better than that at Swanage. 

> Everything else being equal (dont know how far you are travelling) Id go for a south facing Swanage.

>It should be decent late season conditions at Swanage this weekend. Have had great days there with similar forecasts of sunshine and offshore winds.

Thanks, all.  Those were the answers I was looking for!  Have booked an overpriced yurt and we're off to Swanage.  Oxford is pretty much equidistant and I've done a fair bit of grit this summer so it'll be a nice change.

 Wimlands 24 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Guillemot would be better than Subluminal...we used to warm up on this one

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/guillemot_ledge-255/mistaken_ident...

And I think Batt Crack faces East so should be out of any stray westerly breeze...

Post edited at 13:40
OP Jamie Wakeham 24 Sep 2020
In reply to Wimlands:

Cheers.  It looks a bit short of much sub-VS, but if we're going well we might have a look in on the last day!

 Wimlands 24 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Sorry, missed the sub vs bit. You’re right, not that much, just Ledge end and Zozo...

Wall street at Cormorant (next crag along) and the route next to it are worth a look at that grade.

Post edited at 18:57
 kedvenc72 24 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

The forecast for swanage last tuesday was superb. However, the promenade was totally out of condition due to condensation/sea mist. Just saying! However, I'd say Swanage is always a good bet weatherwise, odds were against me this time.

In reply to Bulls Crack:

I was wondering about Suanage and Svanage, to get the full alphabetical spectrum...

In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

> Have booked an overpriced yurt

Whereabouts?

Post edited at 21:45
OP Jamie Wakeham 24 Sep 2020
In reply to kedvenc72:

> The forecast for swanage last tuesday was superb. However, the promenade was totally out of condition due to condensation/sea mist.

Hmm.  Hoping that the wind will blow any mist away!

> Whereabouts?

Herston Leisure.  Cheapest accommodation close than Bournemouth we could find!

In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

> Herston Leisure. 

Ah, right. Passed through it doing DofE last year. Seemed to offer a range of 'camping experiences', from clubhouse restaurant style, to open field. Staff were very friendly when we chatted. Thought it might have been Burnbake, a bit further in, as that's a bit 'bohemian' in flavour.

OP Jamie Wakeham 29 Sep 2020
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

So for the benefit of anyone reading this thread in the future: 14 degrees and a 20mph Nor'wester is a perfect time to go to Swanage!  At crag level there was just enough breeze to stop you from overheating and the rock was in pretty good condition, with only a little greasiness on Sunday.  Just don't get sunburned like we did...

Between Subluminal and Cattle Troughs there was plenty to keep us busy, too.


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