Steep UK Sport Routes Ticklist - Recommendations

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 KristianBodnar 01 Sep 2020

Looking to put together a list of the steep sport offerings in the UK.

Would be good to get a good spread of grades too, but inevitably a fair chunk will be in the 8s.

Also, is it better to include all 2 & 3 star steep offerings or just the best line in a crag? The former would help for people searching but the latter would be more curated.

This is where i've got to so far, 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=4344

im definate im missing some major ones from lpt, kilnsey, gordale, malham, anvil etc

also, if any of these are not steep enough, lemme know too, ive gone off of guidebook pics and descriptions. not seen alot of these in person

 Emilio Bachini 01 Sep 2020
 bigdrew 02 Sep 2020
In reply to Emilio Bachini:

Anything here... Turkey Dip Rocks

Also laughing at the rain etc at cow dale / staden 

 bigdrew 02 Sep 2020
In reply to KristianBodnar:

666 / Beeston bomber and what ever else at Beeston tor

In reply to KristianBodnar:

Militia at giggleswick is pretty steep

 Emilio Bachini 02 Sep 2020

Suggestions so far are great, all added

 Fakey Rocks 02 Sep 2020
In reply to KristianBodnar:

Not sure what your definition of steep is, continuously overhanging? or including blocky roofs that enable shake outs in the vertical in between bits? but quite a few routes at Cheddar North and South are missing...

Some are perhaps a bit short + bouldery but... 

Cheddar South (nb!!! Please read + understand all of the access notes on Ukc or bmc Rad b4 climbing there!) 

Follow the Slick Red Road (to Gdansk) (7c)

Lickin Tarmac (7c+)

Jazz Defector (7c+)

There might be a couple that count on Ginsberg wall..? 

Also Space hunter wall... 

Return of the Gunfighter (7c)

Star Spangled Banner (7b+)

SkyScrape (7b+)

Starscape (7b+)

Several routes on Sunset Buttress although maybe that follow vertical lines through the roofs, can't really confirm as probably beyond me, but maybe 

Bird of Paradise (7b+)

On Burmese Wall.. Finishes steep.. 

Pirates of Lamb Leer (7a)

On High Rock.. 

The Mettle Detector (7c+)

Sherryland (7a+)

The Wrecking Crew (8a+)

Shangri-La (7b+) short steep bit! 

On the North side... 

Lion Rock... 

Lion Sleeps Tonight (8a)

Circus, Circus (7c)

Shadow Walker (8a+)

Circus Finale (7c+)

Jah Lion (8a)

The Remnant...

Bristol Weed (8a+)

Homegrown (8a+)

The Wrist Business (7c+)

Pride Evans... Fallingwater (8c)

Ultra-Violence (7c+)

Secret Cabaret (8a)

If Raw Deal is in then so should a few more be on the Wave + Tsunami, if someone else wants to add them..? 

Brean has some stuff that is slightly steep too..

Also Ban-y-gor...

Post edited at 12:59
 AJM 02 Sep 2020
In reply to Fakey Rocks:

Have to say I'd have gone the other way and suggest cutting out Raw Deal and other things that are maybe slightly leaning (which I'd say a number of your cheddar suggestions are, plus probably a few of the others) - the UK isn't exactly lacking in slightly beyond vertical routes or things with are fundamental vertical but with a strip roof part way up so it could become quite a long ticklist if you don't focus it down!

 Fakey Rocks 02 Sep 2020
In reply to AJM:

Feel free to suggest which others you would chop, I know alot of it doesn't compare at all to Kilnsey, and you + others might have done alot more at Ched than me, I only did 1 on that list, so are probably better qualified to judge them...

What would you leave on my Cheddar list? 

Does Brean have any? 

Post edited at 13:07
 Fakey Rocks 02 Sep 2020
In reply to KristianBodnar:

Ban-y-gor...? 

Head Tennis (7c+)

Almost Me (7c)

Post edited at 13:22
 AJM 02 Sep 2020
In reply to Fakey Rocks:

My guess - I'd leave the short steep ones like Jazz Defector up the top and Ultra Violence etc at Pride Evans. Maybe if there's a particularly big roof - Wrecking Crew, Gladiator, that sort of thing - I'd keep others but otherwise I'd probably dump a lot of Cheddar into the "slightly leaning or a strip roof/overlap" category.

Ditto Brean, you could maybe argue that Roof of Iniquity and El Chocco go through a roof so they're steep but personally if I think of "steep sport" I think of stuff a bit more sustainedly steep than that. But it's all a question of definition.

 Fakey Rocks 02 Sep 2020
In reply to AJM:

Yeah but Gladiator? you mean Galacticus? is just a few very hard moves around a roof, not continously overhanging neither ? 

Hopefully someone else can chip in their opinion, but i can see that many at Chedd don't keep you in that arms way out from your feet body tension position where you're not getting much recovery, but i would have thought a fair few do... The others on space hunters I listed don't? 

I'd say Root of Inequity at Brean doesn't count imo! 

 dan gibson 02 Sep 2020
In reply to KristianBodnar:

Tennessee (7c)

 AJM 02 Sep 2020
In reply to Fakey Rocks:

Yes I do, sorry, I didn't check a guidebook. The ones like that which are just big strip roofs were marginal to me to be honest - I don't really think Cheddar has many contenders at all - but you specifically asked about Cheddar and Brean so I looked at which ones felt to me like the most likely contenders at those venues. I mean fundamentally both venues are predominantly either vertical or that slightly leaning angle where they still climb much as though they are vert. In the south, Swanage, Lulworth, Portland east coast (Cave hole etc), and some bits of Devon would be my obvious picks...

 Nathan Horwood 03 Sep 2020
In reply to KristianBodnar:

Check out some of the routes at Dinas rock, southwales, Roseline at 7b+ and Mortal Kombat at 8a+ both look good fun, 

 Bristoldave 03 Sep 2020
 struds 04 Sep 2020
In reply to KristianBodnar:

A few mega steep lines at this new s wales crag:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stout_point-28129


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