UKH

Hi

Looking for some information now that I've done the brilliant Silver Shadow (E2 5b) at Stackpole. 

In discussion with my partner (and post-climb review of Rockfax route descriptions) it talks about heading up the right hand corner at the break on the headwall.  One of the log book photos appears to show the leader also went right.  To me the crack seems the more obvious line and didn't consider the right hand with any seriousness.

I had a look at both the slightly overhanging hand crack, which is the way I ultimately went, and the right hand corner, where I couldn't see any obvious holds.  Can someone (hopefully who's gone both ways) explain how the right hand finishes and if it's easier/harder compared to the crack? 

The crack has some kick to it if your already at your endurance limit and/or jam keeps slipping.  It's all the more desperate when you are so close to the top.  Does the right hand side also have a "dig deep" element to it? 

Thanks for helping me scratch my mental itch. 

Cheers

I have climbed it twice, via the corner both times. The corner provides brilliant climbing - as you say, the holds are not obvious from below but as you climb up sufficient holds do appear.

Thanks and wish I ventured up a bit rather than eyeballing it. I'll have to convince my partner to lead it at some point so we can compare.  The corner seems like the non-obvious way.

Did it last week and finished up the corner. I did look at the crack, and there was some chalk on it, but the corner looked like a better line and had more chalk. It is quite unlikely since the corner crack itself closes up but actually not too hard once you start bridging and palming. Once at the top a swing right and up is straightforward. I am guessing that the previous occasion I did the route I finished up there as well although I think the line in the 1996 Rockfax is slightly out.

I notice both our 2009 book and the Wired/CC books describe the finish up the corner. 

Alan

Thanks Alan for the info.  

I'm assuming the chalk you saw in the crack is from my climb.    Once up the crack I went right above the roof, but you can go right underneath too; either option meets up with the guidebook description to and finish up the upper corner.

I'm guessing that as I'm somewhat fond of a hand jams, and I didn't pay too much attention to the route description, I was a bit blinkered in my approach when the corner looked blank.  I think I agree that the corner looks better and would've spent more time working out the blank looking corner. 

Having climbed it with Alan I could definitely see where confusion might arise, because that crack really is an obvious line - arguably more obvious than the corner.

Whilst we're on topic, just how good is Silver Shadow?! Must be one of the best (if not the best) E2s in Pembroke.

I climbed this at the weekend - what a great route! Bit confused by which bits you guys are talking about though. Anyone care to scribble on this?!

https://miro.com/app/board/o9J_lzH4oVU=/

I've just drawn a green 'R' on where I thought it was. It's actually really subtle to begin with, as you pretty much start up the crack anyway, but where you step right at a flake you also keep climbing the crack (or climb out to the flake and back left again - it's not far).

Hopefully the picture makes more sense of it.

Hi

Yeh, great route and one where I learnt a lesson that not all E2's are created equal.

It's the line that Rob drew and the way I did it on my first attempt 4 years ago and a couple of weeks back.  Really curious if there is a difference in difficulty - the crack has a burley kick to it before you get to easy juggy finish.

We may end up on it next year if we have to bail off Swordfish.

IMHO best E2 in Pembroke hands down. Such a class route. 

Stackpole has got to be one (if not the) best crags in Pembroke for E2/3, with routes like Silver Shadow, Puritan, Swordfish, Heaven's Door all ranking as some of my most memorable. Only place I can think of that comes close in terms of density in/around this grade is Mother Carey's, but there's something particualrly special about Stackpole - probably because of its awkward access. The fact you can only go after 1st August, and when the tide is right, makes it an extra special experience.

Did a bit of work on this yesterday for a Rockfax Digital update. I think the crack we have been discussing is now part of the upper section of the route The Top Banana (E6 6b) which approaches the Silver Shadow (E2 5b) mid-route belay from below and then goes straight up the two cracks. When looked at like this the corner finish looks more logical although it probably had been done before The Top Banana was climbed by people doing Silver Shadow.

Thanks!  From the picture's angle The Top Banana upper section may be a bit left of where I think the SS crack is.  Hard to tell at this angle, but it's where there is a grey section between the TTB and SS - marked in red.