UKH

Just in case anyone is interested, I've been putting together a self rescue flowchart (leader and second). I've never seen a good one before and sifting through the plethora of books can be quite tiresome. Those interested, please have a nosey and suggest improvements. Ta.

What I have learnt is that direct belays and double ropes make serious situations much easier!

I'm no expert, but all the steps are thoroughly documented by a range of expert and experienced climbers. I've simply collated them. There are probably some errors in there. Also I'm not sure how many of these would work in reality as I've not practiced them. Please don't trust your life to my flowchart.

https://whimsical.com/second-rescue-3pfaeDw8woJSsYTMXTWXHk

https://whimsical.com/leader-rescue-HB4bNDGnzap2X6p2xjUuVX

Good effort

Made oi larf

Ah! Not clear enough I know. I have clearly just designed it for my own brain. I'll work on that. I'll have to add in the indirect/direct belay splits.

Unless you meant the other type of powerpoint. In which case, Hahah!

You’ve missed the option of the belayer being within reach of rucksack containing a penknife. 
 

Great effort though! I’d never really thought the steps like that before.

That would be my first option, but depends how much I like the partner.

Yup

You've missed "try not to need this flow chart in the first place" and "what to do if I got myself into a pickle and didn't bring my crib sheet"...

Ah well, can't make everyone happy!

Good work, always found writing down stuff made me remember it better 

Good work. Is imagine developing it is the most useful thing, thinking through the possibilities... 

My one is similar :

Are you stuck? use WD40

Are you moving when you, shouldn't : use Duct tape...

Ah if only such simple rules could be applied to climbing! Everytime I look at the flowchart I see potential improvements. It's become a monster. I will add comment permissions for people to make suggestions when viewing.

Triple no option in top right of leader flowchart is confusing,, which to take?

There's no reason not to use a direct belay for 99% of people's climbing.  If you need to 'protect the belay' just clip yourself into the powerpoint and position yourself so the weight comes onto you before the belay. The only reason I can see to make an indirect belay would be if you don't have enough rope / slings / cordelette to construct a direct one.

You're right, it was a bit confusing. It should be all cleared up now.

Well... though I agree that having a direct belay is favourable in many situations, in many situations it's just not the best option: anchors far apart or away from the edge being very common situations (I know you could do an extended direct belay, but often you don't have enough rope and then you still find yourself in the predicament of how to extract the rope anyway). 99% of the time people don't use indirect belays to protect the anchor, but just because it's easy and it's what they're comfortable with. I say use whatever type of belay is right for the situation. Also, when I did RCI instructor training, direct belays were generally not taught or recommended for that kind of single pitch work, though in my personal climbing it's what I favour where possible.

Being rigid with your approach might well result in more problems than solutions, but let's not go into the direct vs indirect debate - anything I could fix on the flowchart?

It's impressive and a useful training tool, but clearly too detailed to apply in a rescue situation.

I wonder if you could condense it to a simpler chart, or set of questions:

1. Can the casualty be lowered to somewhere safe? If yes, advance to step 3

2. If no, can you tie them off and escape? (If no, er, crap)

3. If yes, can you then get to them e.g with prussics or downclimbing? (If no, er, crap)

4. Once with the casualty, make an anchor and remove any kit from higher up.

5. Abseil together or lower the casualty as appropriate.

I may try and create a more simplified form in future. The trouble with simplicity is that it leaves many questions unanswered. For example, many rescues would get stuck at number 2 on your list, whereas the flow chart at least provides options.

The idea of getting out your phone when your partner is screaming for help is certainly less than ideal, but paramedics and doctors aren't expected to remember all the life saving protocols they use; they all use books, phones and apps, so why not everyday climbers? I probably couldn't remember each step perfectly as I have a shite memory, but it might be enough to get me started and then I could hopefully figure out the rest with the base knowledge I have.

Once I have it perfected, I might print it out and start carrying it when I get out climbing! I would feel somewhat sorry for my second looking up at me pondering my chart, but if it's all I've got, I'll take it!