In reply to Atomorama:
I've got a Jul 2 and only use it for its intended use, BELAYING. Although I have tried solo top roping on it.
If you're solo top roping, use a shunt, or even a grigri making sure you take in rope. If you're using the Jul, you'll have to make sure the rope isn't weighted (as with grigri) and tie stopper knots every now and then. This just equates to faff that is completely avoidable with a shunt. You say the rope feeds well, is this in a real life outdoor situation, or in the ideal scenario of your house or garage? Once full lengths of rope are coiled out and real situation weights are in place, I find it hard to believe the Jul feeds freely. (unless you're using a 8 mm rope)
Lead climbing with the Jul just seems daft. I can assure you there is no way the Jul will self feed in either situation. Being assisted braking, once the biner is locked in the notch, there's very little movement of the rope, unless you lift it with the thumb, but then you'd have to feed rope out using both hands. You'd have to balance out a tricky game with respect to rope width. If the rope is skinny, it might feed easier, but the jul won't take or block at all. If the rope is fat, the Jul will catch, but it won't feed freely.
As with everything, don't improvise with your gear. Want to self-belay? Get the appropriate stuff. Shunts are relatively cheap, modify a grigri for leading, buy a soloist for thousands, whatever you do, just do it safely.
Post edited at 14:38
