Releasable devices for solo top rope.

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 Donotello 10 Jun 2020

I do a fair bit of Solo top rope work but I hit a snag last night, I use a micro traxion on one weighted strand and a gri gri on another strand that I manually pull through. Has served me well. 
 

However I’ve realised that on anything with an overhang, if I’m spat out into thin air I can’t release the micro traxion, this has only been possible in the past if I can get back on the route and Unweight the rope.  
 

What can I use to replace the M T that I can disengage when dangling?

cheers. 

 Rick Graham 10 Jun 2020
In reply to Donotello:

Just carry a spare prussic or ascender.

In reply to Donotello:

One quick and dirty answer requiring no extra kit:

Snug up your grigri and lock it off. Lift your foot/feet up and wrap the rope below the Traxion around them. Stand up in your makeshift loop and disengage the Traxion. Sit down carefully onto your grigri (note orientation of krab).

Quicker to do than actually explain! 

Post edited at 10:25
 Tom Green 10 Jun 2020
In reply to Stuart (aka brt):

Like all great tips I’m now wondering why I never thought of that before!! Awesome!

In reply to Tom Green:

I'd still probably go with Rick's advice too and carry a bit of spare on your harness (I carry a 6mm rope sling which can be fudged into all sorts of makeshift options).

 Hooo 10 Jun 2020
In reply to Donotello:

I use a SAR Rocker (also available branded as Troll or ISC). It's a fall arrest device that can be released under load. The one caveat being that if you release it, it won't re-engage until something else stops your descent, so if you don't want that something to be the ground you need a backup. When I want to retreat I fit a belay plate below the Rocker, then release the Rocker and abseil down.

 Tom Green 10 Jun 2020
In reply to Stuart (aka brt):

Yeah, that’s what I currently do but it’s a bit of a nuisance when you’re repeatedly falling off (I guess one solution would be to stop repeatedly falling off!) so I like the idea of the quick and dirty hack!

 George_Surf 10 Jun 2020
In reply to Donotello:

Microtrax is one of the best tools for the job. I wouldn’t replace it, the fact you can’t unlock it when it’s weighted is a positive!!

To solve your problem though; You can either pull up on the rope (hard/v hard if you’re properly in space) and take in on the Grigri, or put a Prussik/jammer on the rope and do the same (easier with a jammer, but I guess you could pull on the Prussik loop?) or attach a sling to the Prussik/jammer and stand up (very easy!). Being able to move around on your fixed ropes without climbing is crucial so you don’t get stuck! Have a look at how to ascend a rope with prussiks, 

 JStearn 10 Jun 2020
In reply to Donotello:

Keep the Microtrax, it's a good device for the job. If you are working a section and have to ascend a lot, I would just use a jumar, it's much quicker than a prussik and the new ones are quite light (don't notice it on my harness).

OP Donotello 10 Jun 2020
In reply to JStearn:

Thanks for your replies. I made a foot loop in the rope below my gri gri to try and dis the traxion but it twisted the grigri in a way i wasn't comfortable with. I didn't think to make the loop below the traxion in order to get higher on the gri gri. 

One more thing, do you think a semi-static rope would be better for these sort of things? One of the offputting thing is the bounce especially if you need to rest or hop off lower down. Unlike a lead fall there's no real fall factor as you're immediately engaging the traxion. 

cheers. 

In reply to Donotello:

> One more thing, do you think a semi-static rope would be better for these sort of things? One of the offputting thing is the bounce especially if you need to rest or hop off lower down. Unlike a lead fall there's no real fall factor as you're immediately engaging the traxion. 

> cheers. 

Semi static is what I use because I've got loads of it. If you've padded out your dynamic (and since you're doubling up) it's not something I'd lose sleep over, but yep, the yo-yoing can be a hassle, especially if you want to remain in a certain part of the route you're trying. 


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