Recommendations for a first multipitch Lake District day

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 Tom Guitarist 27 Jun 2022

Hi all,

As per title I'm after some recommendations for a first multipitch trip to the Lakes. I'm fairly new to leading Trad and my climbing is getting back into it after a fairly big gap.

 I think that we're going to try and keep the grade at a lowly V Diff or thereabouts for a first attempt so that we can focus on getting slick at changeovers etc. Fairly happy leading at S-HS on single pitch for context.

We've done some small 'multipitches' at The Roaches and Hen Cloud so are after something more mountainous etc. Happy with big walk-ins etc as my background is Hillwalking and scrambling. We'll be on a single 50m rope too.

We've done a load of reading up, but feel a bit spoiled for choice now! So happy to follow some more informed advice!

(We're heading up this coming Saturday and has to be Lakes as I'm staying up there for a few days)

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 RobAJones 27 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

C Ordinary followed by a scramble down and then Giants Crawl on Dow 

 a crap climber 27 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

Couple of excellent days but potentially long out would be:

Middle fell buttress on Raven crag in Langdale, followed by the Curtain Wall continuation. Then walk up to Gimmer and do Gimmer Chimney.

Dow crag - up C Ordinary, down easy terrace (if you're happy down climbing grade 2 ground) then up Giants Crawl.

 Tony Buckley 27 Jun 2022
In reply to RobAJones:

C Ordinary is a fine suggestion.  Whilst it's up to the OP to make their own choice, I'd go for ArĂȘte, Chimney and Crack (Summer) (S 3c) over Giant's Crawl (Summer) (D).  Nothing wrong with GC, but for a first time out on a single 50 GC might prove nervous.

T.

 petegunn 27 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

If it's wet Corvus (D) is a good route and can be climbed in "all weathers" and at an easier grade.

1
 Graeme Hammond 27 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

Do you have any accommodation/camping booked as it can take along time to get between different parts of the lakes. For example Wasdale to Borrowdale typically at least a hour and a half drive. If you do it might help tailor the suggestions.

Post edited at 12:18
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

First day I'd head to Shepherds, tick Little Cham and get used to it then day 2 head out to the hills! Raven is always worth a visit

In reply to Tom Guitarist:

C-ordinary is a great shout, but dow is a rather sombre sort of crag.

But for my money I'd make a trip round to the napes and get on needle ridge. amazing route, great position. Each pitch different to the last but always high quality.

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 RobAJones 27 Jun 2022
In reply to Tony Buckley:

> Nothing wrong with GC, but for a first time out on a single 50 GC might prove nervous.

I'd agree that compared to C Ordinary it is more exposed and  some care needs to be taken by the leader to ensure a slip by the second doesn't result in a serious situation on the second pitch. Also being out of sight on at least one belay might create some communication issues. I don't think doing it on a single 50 should be problematic, the route is a big zig zag, but the pitches are pretty straight. I agree that AC and C is a excellent (better?) route, but it's significantly harder (I'll climb GC in approach shoes/boots, but put rock shoes on for AC and C) and the zig zag nature requires thought if you have a nervous second. 

 Abu777 27 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crag (Langdale) is Diff but a great route and very accessible with a pub at the bottom for post-descent celebration. It's very friendly with big ledges and loads of gear options. The final pitch at the top is straightforward but feels trickier than the rest of the climb. You can abseil off a tree into a descent gully and avoid this last pitch, but better to finish it to the top and walk off I think. Little Chamonix on Shepherd's Crag (next to Derwent Water) is an excellent route at VDiff, but poses some trickier problems at the grade (e.g. getting off the boulder onto the slab....). Brilliant fun though and again loads of gear.

 Birks 27 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

Plenty of great suggestions here...

I'd second the comments about Dow being a bit intimidating, its an amazing crag but perhaps not the friendliest intro to multi-pitch.

Also certain crags are better/worse in certain conditions, for example...

Gimmer is a flipping brilliant crag unless its really windy, and can be boiling when its really hot.

Dow is quite shaded so favours a hot day, and I wouldn't want to be caught out if there is a chance of rain there. 

Raven Crag Langdale has plenty of choice for what you are looking for and is a little less exposed to wind, but isn't quite as classic as some of the others

To build on the borrowdale/ little chamonix recommendation... a few others in that neck of the woods:

- Troutdale Pinnacle

- Oxford and Cambridge Direct

Have a fantastic time! Classic Lakes multi-pitch trad is just brilliant!

OP Tom Guitarist 27 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

Wow thank you for all of the excellent recommendations!

Middlefell Buttress -Curtain Wall-Gimmer was what I'd actually got in mind myself....happy to have an early start and late finish but appreciate that it might actually be a bit ambitious for a first attempt. Is it easy enough to bail out either at the top of Middlefell or Curtain Wall should we be up against it time wise? Plan is to stay in my motorhome on NT car park in Langdale on Friday night. Can spend some quality time in ODG (best pint of Old Peculiar in the world)

Dow Crag was another that we'd discussed, but I've got a few days in Coniston booked in August so will probably visit Dow Crag then.

Am I being way too ambitious to think about 'D' Route (S 4a) on Gimmer? I love the look of it!

As noted before Single 50m rope. We've got full set of nuts, offsets and hexes each (obviously won't take all of that) a couple of mid sized cams, 1 x 240 sling each, 2 X 120 slings each, plenty of QD's including a few Alpine draws, prussiks....I'm assuming that that will be more than sufficient?

Already getting rather excited!

 Andy Hardy 27 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

There's the classic link up in Birkness Combe

Harrow Buttress (D)

Slabs Ordinary Route (VD) 

Oxford and Cambridge Ordinary Route (VD)

That's a nice day out 

In reply to Tom Guitarist:

Gillercombe Buttress (S 4a) would be another fine day out 

 Godwin 27 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

If you are based in Coniston, you may wish to consider https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wallowbarrow_crag-362/ it has some good easier grade multi pitch routes, with very easy desents. Its a lovely crag in a lovely valley, with a lovely pub.
In Langdale, I would suggest Ash Tree Slabs, on Gimmer, then pick what you wish off the upper wall, but the belay on Ash Tree Slabs is a favourite of mine, its in a great position.
 

 Rupert Woods 28 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

Depends on whether you staying south - I’ve always found the Langdale crags need good weather. If weather a bit iffy, then Borrowdale is a better base (Shepherds Little Cham etc Black if you fancy Troutdale Pinnacle, Corvus) - if good mountain weather, then you have access to the Napes, Pikes Crag and Grey Buttermere. Loads to do wherever you go and all very exciting!

 Rog Wilko 28 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

Another vote for Grey Crags in Birkness combe.

 BillHuggins 28 Jun 2022
In reply to Tom Guitarist:

Middlefell Buttress is a lovely climb. Could also head over to Merlin Slab (D) on Pike O'Stickle after.

I do love Arete, Chimney and Crack, and Giant's crawl on Dow too...

I'm really enjoying this book for fun mountain routes at the grades I climb... https://www.oxfordalpineclub.uk/shop.php#!/Mountain-Rock/p/181255560/catego...

 John Kelly 28 Jun 2022
In reply to BillHuggins:

Not sure Merlin is that great a suggestion, climbing is ok but you got to find it 

If you want an excellent VD (or maybe it's a diff) go for Main Wall climb https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gimmer_crag-345/main_wall_climb-42... incredible rock, might be the best slab climb in the district 

Post edited at 17:02

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