UKH

Am I being curmudgeonly, or is it totally antisocial to pitch a portaledge on Central Groove? We arrived at 1100 yesterday and there it was, having been there since the previous evening according to one of its inhabitants, who was dangling in space having been lowered to the end of the rope(?!).  When challenged on the appropriateness of his actions,  he was less than impressed.

I couldn't be bothered any more to argue with a certified and practicing moron, so we went to the upper buttresses. The portaledge was still there two hours later and CG wasn't vacated until 1500 ish.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

They appear to be selfish and out of order.

Was it Dominic Cummings? Bet it was him, maybe wearing a wig, taking some time out just to think of his excuses. 

If not it was the dreaded Tory Brexit voter. 

If they're going to do it (despite there being a no overnight camping rule still in England I believe?) fair enough, but they should very much have cleared off in the morning for anyone that may want to climb there.

You're absolutely right to call them out on it. 

To put a portaledge up on such a popular route would be dubious, and then to leave it up most of the day would be totally inappropriate in my opinion - especially after someone has commented on it. Plenty of less frequented places with easier access for a portaledge.

    Then of course there are the current guidelines - no overnight or wild camping... 

You may be a curmudgeon; it is hard to be sure without knowing you. A portaledge on central groove, which is probably the most popular route in Devon, left there for the day is very selfish. It also breaks the rules in terms of not sleeping away from your home, although in light of recent events, that may be allowed. Were they caring for a small child? 

An alternate view is that they were exceptionally well prepared and chose to spend the night at their high point. Camping in and around The Dewerstone which is owned by the NT has been going on throughout lockdown to a greater or lesser extent, is likely to lead to a more difficult relationship in terms of access for climbers and walkers and should not be happening.

For a more gripping south west portledge camping experience might I recommend the Bawden Cliff at Carn Gowla or Henna cliff on the Culm. 

James

I wasn’t there, but it sounds like you encountered bell-ends.

Agreed, ignorant kn*b-ends.

Aside from the COVID-19 aspects, there are plenty of quieter spots to sling up a portaledge and it should have been hauled down sharpish in the AM once others turned up to climb the line.   

Don't rush to judge. I've never climbed there but is it a long route? They might be slow climbers or taking their elderly parents for their first post-lockdown route since March? Carrying a portaledge would seem sensible in case of benightment and thus avoiding the need to summon the MRT. If Dominic Scummings had had a portaledge perhaps he wouldn't have been forced to drive to Durham. For God's sake martinturnchapel stop being so judgemental!!!! No-one died did they?

This is a difficult one. A large part of me objects to the arrogance shown above which believes that climbers hold a priority over other crag users. 

On the other hand, a fledgling industry was developing last year, offering portal edge nights out as a bucket list sort of thing. An objectionable idea. 

Learning how to pitch and use your portal edge close to home before venturing further afield seems very sensible to me.

Edit to add:

The reduction in activity due to our current lock down also make this an ideal time practice pitching. 

Stanley knife justified. Selfish prat.

Anyone wanting the true big wall experience with their Portaledge should welcome a few objective dangers like the odd rock whistling past their new toy - all in the interests of authenticity, of course.

Was also a totally taken aback seeing the ledge up there when we arrived, obviously not ideal. Also chatted to the guy - He said they had spent the night there wanting to practice some skills and have a bit of fun,  don't blame them after lock down I suppose.  He said they had fully intended to be gone first thing, but had some unforeseen problems,  with his partner or gear or something and it took him all morning to haul out their stuff.  I don't how it would take so many hours but he seemed to be regretting the whole situation and trying to get it packed up singlehandedly.  So I ended up feeling like giving him a break in the end. I don't expect he'll be doing it again anytime soon. 

I don't think he was even the biggest bell-end at the crag to be fair, the other dude setting up top ropes for his mates seem pretty sketchy. Popular crags on a May bank holiday maybe best avoided!

Should have given them the full Yosemite Big Wall experience and shat on them from the top.