UKH

Looks painful

https://m.facebook.com/story/graphql_permalink/?graphql_id=UzpfSTExNDA2MTI4... 

Don't know wether to laugh or not but the comment about getting the cooking oil out made me chuckle. Lol 

Obviously good to here a happy ending though 😂

This exact thing happened to my mate robin a few years back on that route. I had to rescue him which was easier said than done as his knee was proper stuck in the crack and swelled up as we tried to get it out. So it's got form that route has haha. 

I was one of the people trying unsuccessfully to help him. Really glad to read that they got him out okay. Must have been horrendous because it was causing him loads of pain every time he tried to pull on it. Kudos to him for walking out, I assumed they'd need to stretcher him.

Couldn't help thinking of this Cedar Wright classic as I dangled around with him.

youtube.com/watch?v=1dJLN43G6KA&

Is it Crewcut?  If so, I had a near miss there a few years back too.  Didn't need rescuing fortunately, but it could easily have gone the other way.

Or Martin Boysen on the Trango Tower.

Reminds me of another incident, in a really serious situation. From Alpinist.com  :

" Trango Tower had nearly killed Boysen on the original attempt the year before, when his knee jammed in a crack dripping with icy water. He was trapped for hours until he finally freed himself by hacking through the fabric of his pants with a piton. ....... he returned with his friends ...... the next year to confront the knee-eating crack and complete the ascent."

Edit: Apologies to DaveHK who beat me to it.

That's the one. I already had plenty of reasons to avoid (or layback!) offwidths but I've added one more to my list.

Where did the cooking oil come from? An excellent effort by you and the others trying to get the chap out - I'm just impressed that someone had cooking oil to hand!  

Glad he's OK and not too badly hurt. Crewcut is a beast of a VS.

That did make me laugh. Has anyone got any lube? Out comes the crisp and dry. I knew this day would come!  Not gonna be quite so good that jam now is it haha. 

Yeah, I was a bit surprised by that as well!  Wish I could say that someone had just mysteriously pulled it from their Mary Poppins-style climbing bag. But it was from someone's van, which makes sense I suppose.

Ah, I am the cooking oil person and I believe we have your revolver! 

Good team effort, thanks everyone for helping. The guy is walking fine now.

That route brings back some memories.

Years ago I almost had a similar problem on Hollybush Crack (VS4b) at Burbage North. Some climbs are real man eaters.  

They should have sent for someone from Tideswell, they know how to deal with stuck body parts there

https://atideswellman.wordpress.com/tideswell/#:~:text=Local%20people%20are....

That's almost disappointing but was my guess as the most likely source! Well done for them for running back to the car park to get it though! Perhaps they earn a pass if they had been illegally van camping the night before.

But less chance of getting stuck in it?

Climbing partner slipped when hand jamming at wharncliffe once - got his arm stuck at the wrist with his feet scrabbling about and his body weight full on the jam.

Managed to get him out (after much shouting) by repeatedly hauling in the rope whilst bending my knees, then straightening my legs. It was a good job I could "full squat" 300 lbs at the time (no chance of that now). After half a dozen "yanks" managed to get him above the jam where he was finally able to extricate himself.

If I hadn't got him out then (and quickly) who knows what would have happened - maybe he'd have been nicknamed "stumpy". He's still scared witless about jamming, especially on grit.

Haha!

As soon as I saw the knee there was only route it could be. Never done it myself, why would I?

It was always a layback. No need to off-width it as there was no gear wide enough to fit (fell of trying to get a lump of 4 x 2 to stick across it!)

Agreed, there are two "natural" chockstones so the climb is basically "layback, thread, layback, thread, layback".

But, if you haven't got any large enough cams then the second and third bits of laybacking are rather bold and can be difficult to commit to, so I can understand someone trying the more secure (sic) offwidthing method.

I have done this route with just the two threads but in my most recent ascent someone did kindly lend me a couple of large cams (bigger than my friend 3.5) - bit of a wuss that day 😞

Car park was closed (locked barrier) overnight. We arrived at 7:30 to find the barrier still across.

I'm assuming they have started to lock it due to the "van-lifers".

Maybe. I have driven past Surprise view a couple of times in the last week late-ish evening and the gates were still open - some one must have a late night job looking them.

Someone posted on FB pictures of huge amounts of camping junk abandoned down a Lawrencefield - I wonder if some party/rave happening there led to the gates being locked at the weekend?

Mid week there were lots of vans parked below Stanage and up on the hardstanding at top by Apparent North. It's interesting that Cumbria police seem to be going for it ticketing campers up there but Derbyshire and S Yorks don't seem to be moving people on.